The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Rattle Can Primer

I'm getting ready to prime some parts for my truck. I don't have a spray set-up or the money for one. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good rattle can primer that doesn't cost an arm & leg? This is for re-rusting protection, so it doesn't have to be a specific color, or a great finish. The parts will be de-rusted using electrolysis, then phosphoric acid. I've heard etching primers work well, but could have problems on surfaces previously treated with phosphoric acid.

Rust-oleum Auto Primer has always done a good job for me on parts.

I've had good luck with http://www.vansicklepaint.com/index.html products. they make tractor enamels and are located in Nebraska I think. Big R stores carry it.

How long will the parts be in primer before putting on a top coat?

Where will the parts be stored before putting on the top coat?

I'm going to be primering the gas tank and filler neck. It could possibly be YEARS before it's ever painted. The tank is behind the seat though and shouldn't see any weather/UV. The filler neck could probably go w/o any primer at all as it looks like it's galvinized or something similiar. I am just trying to get the truck running reliably at this point. This primer is for function ONLY, not for show.

Remember Rattle Can Primer ONLY

Keep the suggestions coming!!

OH I should mention that I ordered a rubber strap & bumper kit from Jim Carter. So I shouldn't have to worry about the straps rubbing through the primer

more important than weather its UV protected make sure its a sealer/primer if your planing on storing it for awhile, filler primers can soak up dampness and rust it out as if there was no paint on it at all

OK... I primed the gas tank. it did NOT go well. The primer started flaking off in sheets! I've never had this happen on anything I've painted before. the tank had been etched w/ phosphoric acid. then wiped dry, and prepped with acetone. I let it sit for a while to make sure it was dry. then primed w/ no-name NAPA primer ($3.19 per can). It was fairly humid that day...would that have done it? Was it the cheap primer? How can I avoid this in the future? HELP!!

I hope someone responds to you, I'm kind of curious to know what could have caused that too.

Not sure what made the primer fail. Could have been the humidity, but I'm more inclined to think either a dud can of primer or poaaibly some sort of contamination on the surface. May have nede a second wipedown before spraying.
I can suggest that you try a self etching type primer. Dupli-Color makes a good one, kind of an olive green color. I have also used Dupli-Color and Rustoleum sandable primers with good success.

Yeah... I'm thinking that I will not be buying cheapo primer again. it's hard to swallow $8/can for a good self etching primer though. Thanks Guys

It is very possiable you did not wipe the tank down good enough. I use wash thinner and haven't had any problems. The wash thinner evaporates really quickly and leaves a nice clean surface to work with. I also just thought of something if you are going to leave it for a long time why not use some mali box silver on it to keep it from rusting. You can buy this in Rust-oleum paint.
62 Blue
Don

If you want to save a few $$, Wal-Mart does carry the Dupli-Color Self Etch and Primer/Filler in their automotive departments. IIRC, the last time I picked some up, it was around $6 a can.

Hey, a good ole steak isn't cheap and a cheap ole steak isn't good.

..... and Advance Auto sales it for $5.98 a can unless its went up on price. I use both the rustoleum and the greenish self etch.

For the what its worth dept. we have a shop here in town that has/does TOTAL restorations for years on nothing but mopar. I deliver the self etch to them all the time. The owner tells me its good stuff especially for the small touch up jobs or small objects.

Thanks guys. I've borrowed a sandblaster from my father in law, I'm going to sand blast, hit it really good with paint prep wash, and the use a good self etch on it. if that won't do it, I don't know what will.

You didn't hold the can and spray to too far away from the tank? You want a light coat, but wet coat, then wait a few minutes for it to tack up, then a good even wet coat. The primer could of dried enough before it actually got a chance to adhere to the metal.

you could always blast it first the por15 the tank after metal ready prep
then the tank is done..

I painted my tank with some appliance epoxy a few years back. It was a metal tone kind of a silver with a bronze tint. It was outside for most of the 2 years behind the seat of the truck. It still looks great. I am not sure why they call it epoxy when it is one part rattle can paint but no sign of rust or peeling. I did use Duplicolor primer sealer first.

being in missouri I can relate to the hunidity thing. I have had prepped surfaces flake off primer in sheets due to humidity. the no name NAPA stuff needs to be constantly shaken to keep it mixed. maybe it settled on you in the can too.

YEPPPPPPPPPPPP & the humidity normally at least matches the temp.
And if you don't like St Louis weather, just wait around 10 minutes or so & it'll change...Joe

you got it, nothing like working on your project and being totally soaked to the skin when you are done

That's why I have a 48" fan in my garage. Even on the worse days, hot humid moving air is always better then plain old hot humid none moving air any day....Joe