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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 323 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 323 | How do you remove rivets? I am trying to remove the leaf spring brackets and front transmission crossmember. they are riveted to the frame. I have cut one end off of a few using a cutoff wheel. They won't budge from the punch and hammer. Do I need to drill them out after cutting the heads off? This is on a '48 panel. | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | Drill about 1/16-1/8" smaller than the rivet size, but don't drill the last 1/8-3/16", then try a slightly loose fitting punch inside the hole.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | If you have been using a punch and hammer after cutting off the head then you're using too small a hammer and punch. I would suggest you get a 12 or 15 inch punch and use a short handle sledge about 4 lbs. One or two licks with that and the remaining rivet will shoot across the room.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 Cruising in the Passing Lane | | Cruising in the Passing Lane Joined: Oct 2003 Posts: 5,152 | I find drilling easier than grinding.
I usually drill a small hole, like 1/8th, followed by a larger one closer to the size of the rivet. I find they punch out faster if that larger hole is all the way through the frame, but not the rivet.
Good sharp bits and some lubrication make it go fast. Last time I had a bunch to do I used two drills so I didn't need to swap bits, but could just keep moving.
Then a punch smaller than the hole will drive the rivet right out.
1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more... It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble... | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | My preferred method for rivets up to 3/8" diameter is a 1" wide cold chisel about 12" long. Followed by a similarly stout tapered punch. both driven by a small sledge (actually an engineers hammer) with an 18" handle. If you're not scared to swing a hammer this method works quickly, about 3 or 4 licks to shear the head off, and one more to pop the remainder out of the hole. I removed a few dozen from my 2 ton frame, and then reinstalled almost as many new rivets.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall | | Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall Joined: Dec 2001 Posts: 14,522 | For and old man like me OLDSUB has hit the rivet on the head  (Pun intended) Griggs idea works fine but I"m scarrrred!  | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | I use a torch to melt the heads off. It takes about 5 seconds and out it pops with one swing of the hammer.
For some of us who have screwed up hands youll save yourself some pain and vibration from the impact of the hammer. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,249 | I was gonna say. Drilling is my prefered method. After years of wrenching, my hands are starting to feel tired. So the less hammering I can do, the happier I'll be! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 576 | my preferred method is to drill also. i drill a 1/4 " hole into the center of the rivit going a little deeper than the head.then take a sharp chisel and after about three or for wacks with a medium to large ballpein they slice right off.then with a tapered punch a couple more wacks takes em out real slick like.................dave 1949 Chevrolet 3100 "When this thing hits 88 miles an hour, you're going to see some serious sh%t." -Doc Brown
| | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 323 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 323 | I tried drilling a few. Start with a small bit, and redrill with a larger bit. Couldn't get it dead center, some the drill won't fit right over. I ground those heads off, and one I hadn't drilled and it went just as fast. I could see a hairline crack between stud and frame, so I know I could center a hole on that. I'm tempted to use an air chisel, but I would need to get more tools, not a bad thing. That punch is about ten inches, I'll see what the sledge can do with it. I don't plan on using the holes when I'm done, but the less damage the better. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 165 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2006 Posts: 165 |  I prefer to use a air hammer, with a sharp chisel. Watch out it will knock them heads off real quick, then take a punch and and they will come flying out. From the air hammers viberation, it busts that rivit loose to where you can use a punch and hammer and drive it on through. That worked the best for me, and it makes for a real quick job.  Kevin Kevin
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 . | | . Joined: May 2005 Posts: 8,878 | I have tried the air chisel, but at least the one I had, a really nice Snap-on, was not as good as the big hammer and chisel. The air chisel stretched the holes more than the big hammer and chisel. the air hammer with a punch tool did work pretty slick for punching them out though. I was concerned with damaging things because I did reuse most all of the holes.
I think it's been said before, but no one way works all the time. Best to have a a few plans of attack for those stubborn or hard to get to rivets.
Grigg | | | | | Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 434 | Drill it out, then have two air hammers, one with a chisel tip the other with a punch. Drill a pilot hole, drill out the rivet, cut the rivet head off, then punch it out. With two drills and two air hammers, you can make some rivets fly.
I've got some to do tomorrow...
R-Bo
1959 Apache 1/2 ton Big Window, Short bed Fleetside (under reconstruction) 1966 GMC 305V6 in the family
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 Master Gabster | | Master Gabster Joined: Oct 2006 Posts: 4,983 | I agree with you guys with the busted knuckles, the hammer can be painful. I don't hold the chisel or the punch with my hand, I use a big Vise Grip to hold the tools while I swing.
~Jim
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,554 | The best way that I found was to first burn the heads off with the smoke wrench.Then grind it smooth.Next use an air chisel with a punch bit,and push it thru. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 23 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 23 | I've always been a hammer/chisel sort, myself. Then punch 'em out. Keep your cold chisel sharp. It's a method best mastered with time, concerning angle, not smashing your knuckles, etc.  I removed a few dozen from my 2 ton frame, and then reinstalled almost as many new rivets.
Grigg Where did you get new rivets that size? I could use new ones in a few places, but I have no idea where to get something like that. Thanks! ~Bruce | | | | | Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 23 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 23 | Excellent! Thank you so much. You've been a good source of info on other things, Grigg. I spend a lot of time reading these forums, and have not gone to bed once without learning something! Thanks again.
~Bruce | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 323 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 323 | Grinding the heads off was easy, but wasn't enough. I found drilling works best for me. I started a tap hole, and gradually increased drill bit size until the heads came off. Drilling through past the frame for the smaller bits, and just to the bottom of the heads with larger bits. Then pound them out with hammer and punch. I got some new 1/8" drill bits, a drop light, center punch, and chuck key. Why I even tried without those basics? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jul 2005 Posts: 595 | plasma cutter works great also! the sharp chisel and BFH method seems to be "the proven method" with me also. but those BFH'S are getting tougher to swing these days. scarfing tip on cutting torch works well. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 564 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 564 | I cut an X across the head with a cut-off wheel, then shear the head off with a cold chisel, followed by a tapered drift/punch to remove the body of the rivet.
-Brad SOUTHERN FALL GABfestOctober 6 ~ Commerce, Georgia Details here!Never Pee on an Electric Fence. | | |
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