The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Replacing 1936 Brake Lines - Help & Ideas needed

So it looks like the big day will arrive this saturday...

1958GMCNut and BC52 are planning on coming over that morning for a work party so we can replace all the 36's brake lines in the hopes that they are the only issue causing the brakes to not work...

Has anyone ever replaced the brake lines on a '36 to'38 1/2 ton chevy pickup?

If so do you recommend cutting and bending your own brake lines or is it better to buy pre-cut pieces in varying lengths with connector/junction boxes to put a brake line system together?

Any hints or ideas that will make this job easier?

Thanks in advance for your help...

~Trev

Hire better help!

You can darn near get every piece youll need from your local store. I buy the 6' lengths (or however many meters that is up there ), and cut and flare to fit. But since you can get all the sizes, buy an assortment and you can make it work pretty easy. Plus whatever you dont need you can bring back or save for future projects.

Also buy more then you need because if this is your first time, your gonna screw up some bends and some flares. I wasted a lot of line on my first time and it looks like hell. Ill be redoing it again later... I have a few different benders and that helps a lot. After halfway through my second truck I got a whole lot better and by the end Im a heck of a lot better.

Im trying to think of some more canadian jokes to poke at ya, but my brain must not be up to par tonight!

Good luck! Jeff

Trev is panicing and worrying needlessly....
Everything is under control......
Trev....step away from the vehicle.....

Step away from it? If one of these damned things ran I'd throw myself under it!

~Trev

i just replumbed my 57 since i went to power front discs.
i flared my own in the front, but had a heck of a time trying to get a good flare when i started on the rear, so i got scared, went to napa, bought various lengths of line pre-flared, and re-plumbed the entire truck.
i had nightmares on the front leaking from my flares.
when i got the pre-flared libes, it seems my flares were too big, me tightening the tool too much, maybe.
i have not bleed the system yet, hopefully this weekend, so i dont know if i have any leaks yet.
leonard

Good to know, ratrodking... I'm thinking the preflared tubes are the way to go as well... I figure the less we handle them the better...

I just wish there was a brakeline schematic with measurements available online... then I could go buy everything we'll need for the lines today!

I'm hoping new lines solve it as we know they have a couple wet spots and small leaks... if not I guess I'll be looking for a master cylinder as well... THAT will be fun to try to buy on a 72 year old truck! I hope if I need one I can go with something newer!

~Trev

I re-plumbed all the brake lines on the 51 also and after a few tries on double flaring on some scrap lines mine looked as good as the pre-flared lines the I bought from the parts house (But I did use a good double flaring tool) I say that because I bought a couple of cheapo's of of Ebay and you get what you pay for LOL !

The one thing I would like to add (If I may) Is that if you going to replace the brake lines is to do all of them at once because it is 72 years old and if there is bad spots in one line that could only mean that the others are ready to go too as the corrosion starts on the inside and works outward...

While you're doing the job, you may as well just do it once, front to back, then you KNOW it's done right and never have to worry about it again, it really doesn't take that long to do them ALL so why not do it right so Dave doesn't have to come back again and again and again? LOL !!

And when you get that inspection it would sure be a lot easier on you that if when they check it they see all new brake lines and it will pass with no problems.

It would sure suck if the truck failed so why not just do it once front to back, On your 36 the brakes system probably don't get any more basic than that. Your in good hands with Dave and Boyd I don't think you have anything to worry about Trev

Hopefully your master cylinder is good and even if it's not I wouldn't think one would be that hard to find...There might even be a rebuild kit it

just my 2 cents...

Good luck and have fun guys
Keep us posted !!!

trev, here is a place that sells a bunch pf brake parts and conversions for your truck.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/search-results.cfm

you will have to selevt your year truck on the left, but here is what they have...

enjoy..leonard


AC2000 PLUMBING SURVIVAL KIT $29.95 View
AC2000KX Deluxe Adapter Kit $59.95 View
AC20010K SYRINGE BLEEDER KIT $9.99 View
AC2002 MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDER KIT $3.95 View
AC2003 PUSH ROD DEPTH GAUGE $19.95 View
AC2004KX ALL-IN-ONE BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSTIC KIT $195.00 View
AC2005K EMERGENCY BRAKE REPAIR KIT $49.95 View
AC2007K VACUUM GAUGE KIT $29.95 View
AC2724K VACUUM PUMP KIT, HEAVY DUTY $389.95 View
AC7002 MINI TUBE CUTTER $12.95 View
AC7003 TUBE CUTTER 1/8"-1-1/8" $24.95 View
AC7006 HEAVY DUTY TUBE BENDER $34.95 View
AC71300 HYDRAULIC LINE FLARING KIT $389.95 View
AC71400 DELUXE HYDRAULIC LINE FLARING TOOL $429.95 View
ACJ1703 BRAKE FLUID, PENTOSIN DOT 4 $18.95 View
BRCA1751K CHEVY TRUCK CALIPER BRACKET KIT $189.95 View
DB1751B CHEVY TRUCK FRONT DISC BRAKE BOTTOM KIT $395.00 View
HS1733K BRAIDED STAINLESS STEEL FRONT BRAKE HOSE KIT $79.95 View
HS88520K FRONT BRAKE HOSE KIT $59.95 View
HW2003 LOW PRESSURE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH $19.95 View
LNSLBFO6 GM STRAIGHT LINE KIT $59.95 View
MC390360M GM MANUAL DISC/DRUM MASTER CYLINDER $89.95 View
MC390360P GM POWER DISC/DRUM MASTER CYLINDER $89.95 View
MC390545M GM MANUAL DISC/DISC MASTER CYLINDER $119.95 View
MC390545P GM POWER DISC/DISC MASTER CYLINDER $119.95 View
RT141040 11" VENTED FRONT BRAKE ROTOR $79.95 View
RT141040HP 11" VENTED CROSS-DRILLED/SLOTTED FRONT BRAKE ROTORS $259.00 View

I'm pretty sure Dave has a good flaring/bending tool in one of his many tool boxes so that shouldn't be an issue, Todd... still thinking I'm gonna go with new pre cut and flared lines though...

That should save Dave a lot of aggravation and all he'll have to do is bend 'em then and put the connectors in the right places... one or two cuts MAY be needed but it beats doing a whole whack of 'em...

As for doing ALL the lines front to back I couldn't agree more... we had a BC Bolters meet at 3B's place a couple months back and he told me when he used to do that inspections for vehicles entering Canada they were automatically failed unless the brake lines were all new and in perfect condition. He said if you see corrosion in one area it usually just hasn't made it all the way through the rest of the lines yet and strongly recommended that they all be replaced with new stuff...

In the case of the '36 some corrosion IS visible with a couple wet spots on the line so it seems a no brainer to replace every line in there...

With the '36 so close to being roadworthy it would truly suck to do a patch job only replacing bits and pieces of the line, drive it in for inspection and be given a fail which would mean that again it could not be insured until the problem was fixed and it had to go sit in the garage again until Dave had the time to come back in a month or two by which time I'd have missed ALL the show and shines this year and would not be a very happy camper...

As for master cylinder I'm thinking IF this one has gone south, maybe it can be replaced with a used one from an S-10 or something... there are a load of auto wreckers about 20 minutes from here so if worst comes to worst hopefully that will work...

I see the master cylinder in my '37 has been replaced at some point with something MUCH newer so clearly it can be done... luckily those brake lines are brand new and work great... I'd hate to have to fight with the same problem twice!

Anyway I'll try to take lots of pics during the mayhem and with any luck in about 24 hours we'll have some new brake lines installed and hopefully working brakes to talk about!

~Trev

Hey thanks Leonard... unfortunately a bit late to be looking for parts online for this job, but nice to have access to the parts numbers anyway...

I luckily have a connection at Lordco Auto Parts... the girl is a real sweetheart and gives me the best pricing possible so with any luck they'll have what I need... I should be able to get a decent deal on pre cut lengths and connectors there and they're only a few minutes away in case we forget anything before or during the job...

I appreciate the input though, so thanks again!

~Trev

no problem,,,anytime. good luck, and please post the results tomorrow, as i will hopefully eb installing my new master and booster and try to bleed my entire system also.

i pray i wont have nay leaks....

leonard

I wish you luck too... actually you just reminded me to buy brake fluid while I'm out... new brake lines don't do a lot of good unless you've got something to put IN them! I'm not they'll work as "air brakes"... lol

~Trev

LOL...

General question related to the brake line replacement tomorrow... if that doesn't solve the problem does anyone know if GM Master Cylinders are pretty generic... in other words if one from a S-10, Blazer or full sized pickup will work?

It would just be nice to know in advance just in case replacing the lines doesn't solve the problem so we know what replacement can be used in place of the existing master cylinder...

Has anyone replaced theirs with something out of a newer GM vehicle and if so, what?

~Trev

Trev....There's a place that will match it up no problem......
DB Aldis on fraser street.....

Yeah but the wreckers is closer and cheaper and I can have a part here in 1/2 hour if need be! Time is of the essence when I have two guys in my garage who know what they're doing so I have to maximize the time you're here... this may be my LAST chance to get the old '36 on the road in time for the season!

~Trev

Hy Trev, buddy take a pill, one job you don't want to rush on is brakes. We don't want to be putting unknown condition wrecking yard parts on our trucks. Never mind the fact that the yards probably won't have any single system master cylinders in them anyway. Take your time and do the job properly, we'll get you on the road, but lets do it correctly the first time.

I'm all for that, Bobb... that's why I want to make sure all the brake lines are replaced so I know the truck will be safe and pass inspection!

So I take it then that newer Master Cylinders won't work on this truck? Good to know before going out wasting money on a part...

Thanks for your help... as soon as Dave and Boyd get here we'll be ready to start!

~Trev

good luck trev... none of my fittings, connections leaked, but i do have a leak on ym caliper banjo brass washers.
and my factory style proportioning valve thats mounted under the master is sticking, not letting fluid to the fronts at full pressure, so i am having some problems.

hope your install goes smoother than mine. LOL.

good luck...leonard

Trev, if your MC isn't fixable, and you can't find the correct replacement locally, Jim Carters has exactly what you need right here at the bottom of this page.

Ok so today Dave and Boyd removed the old brake lines, we labelled and measured them, raced off to Lordco to buy pre cut sizes that were close... very cool actually they're covered in a spring so they can be bent more safely without crimping the lines...

Dave and Boyd worked hard bending and installing all of the hard lines again and they look great... unfortunately Lordco was short two rubber lines so I won't be seeing those till tuesday...

I also learned that I need brake shoes and need everything machined, but will bring that in monday to be done...

One last "bad" discovery it seems the bushings and king pins need to be replaced in the front end because there is a bit of play, so that will mean even more work and expense...

Hopefully somehow it all works out and we can get the '36 ready in time for a couple shows I still am trying to make it to in around a month from now!

~Trev

Hy Trev, so some good news, and some not so good news. Were those hose numbers correct? Regards 3B

Shoes need relining, bearings need repacking, needs 1 stud and nut on ft drum, kingpin bushings shot....park brake cables shot....

yeah I have quite a shopping list... I'm gonna have to run my [censored] off to get all the stuff done and back here a.s.a.p. so I can hopefully get it installed again and make my deadline next month... such fun!

~Trev

Hey Trev, did you find out anything about the Master Cylinder? I don't know if you even could have without good lines but...

I'll have to check the invoices, 3B... we just measured lengths of pre flared pre sized brake line and bought the closest lengths we could find to them...

Looks like it's gonna be a bit difficult to get the shopping list dave mentioned above completed and get all the parts machined etc, but I'm gonna get it done and the parts back here come hell or high water... there is no way I'm missing another year if it's humanly possible not to... especially when dave and boyd worked so hard to get the rest of the job done today!

Thanks a lot for the information and part #'s you sent earler... much appreciated, Bobb!

~Trev

Dave and Boyd are taking the wait and see approach to the m/c...

Once everything else is replaced we'll know for sure, but for now it SEEMS to be ok... more on this once we know anything... I guess you could say we're cautiously optimistic for now!

~Trev

Trev, do I remember you saying that the brakes worked but that they weren't good? I seem to but I don't have ANY idea. If they did, then you should not have to put on another m/c, but it might be good to replace it anyway.

JDL....
Brakes didn't work when Trev got the vehicle...
no fluid in M/cyl and wet line by the battery...
Illegal compression fitting on 1 brake line....
Will see how master cylinder and wheel cylinders are when we get the hoses....w/cylinders seem newish....
Master cylinder is a cobbled together farm yard creation that seems
to work....Time will tell...
Hoses we matched up at Flaps....1 in stock, 2 on order...

Guess I was wrong. Oh well, at least you know they worked at one time, if someone went out and put something together to keep them working!

hello trev.....
it never seems to go as we plan, does it ? and that really stinks. its just one thing after another.
i gonna try and get my brakes bled today, if the new banjo washers stop the leak and i can get the prop valve to work correctly, after some tips from some fellow bolters.

just stay with it, and i hope it goes well for you next week.

(off topic paragraph deleted)
good luck..

leonard

Other than the fact I had hoped the brake shoes themselves would be good, it wasn't that bad leonard... the wheel cylinders look better than expected, dave and boyd did a super job bending and installing the hard brake lines and all in all we're a lot farther today than we were yesterday morning at this time...

No, I didn't really need all the other hassles and having to get everything machined etc, but it's coming together... tomorrow morning I'll be rushing all the parts that need to be machined in to the shop and can only hope they're reasonable and fast so we can get the job finished soon...

(off topic paragraph deleted)

In other words once we get the truck(s) done there's always plenty of time to drive... I can't wait to get a little windshield time!

~Trev

cool trev.. glad its soming along.

i went to autozone today and looked at their calipers and they have 3-4 small rings cast into the washer mouting area where the banjo bolts down, and the ones i have are basically smooth, so i think that is why mine are leaking. so im gonna buy a pair form autozne and see if that stops the leaks.
then all i gotta worry about is the prop valve.

i guess i should not have asked you how the weather is up there huh ?
sorry to the administrator for being off topic.

thanks .leonard

Trev, take a break , your world is spinning..

these folks can help you fast

At least Trev will not be dragging his feet.....if he does we're gonna name the 36.....the Flintstone Pickup.

Uh, hello Trev, its good to see the progress. Don't give up. Your getting close to cruising. I'd love to be there and see that big on your face and watch as you do the "low and slow" drag down main.

I think the '36 is about 85 HP, Alvin... is there any other way to cruise in it other than "low and slow"? lol

Now the '37, that's a different story... that old girl is gonna be loud and proud and go kinda fast judging by the rubber she left across the driveway last time I had her out of the garage...

It would be great to have you here for either moment... you and the missus still considering coming up to the pacific northwest near the end of this summer to visit your friends? Hope so!

~Trev

Thanks but I have no interest in the "Midas touch" fred... I already have two "gold" trucks and two great mechanic friends who are doing a great job, remember?

~Trev

No worries about the weather reference, leonard... if anything I think it's amusing that so many americans think we live on frozen tundras hunting polar bears and seals! lol

I hope the new calipers work for you and solve the leaking problem... let us know how it goes!

~Trev

Guys, this forum is for discussing our old trucks. If you want to talk about the weather or anything else not related to old trucks, take it to the spoon. If you want to have personal conversations send a PM. I'm very close to locking this thread down.

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