The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Please Help

I bought a 1950 3600 with a 292 engine and automatic trans. The problem i have it overheats quickly and loses antifreze. The radiator has a 6lb cap. Also the brakes want to overheat and lock up quickly as well. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hy Infantylife, the two problems may be related. Does the engine overheat while just sitting still running, or does it overheat while driving? Are your brakes stock, or have they been "upgraded", or worked on lately? If it overheats while driving it could be because your brakes are not releasing properly after being applied, causing the engine to work alot harder, we need more information to help you diagnose your problem.

You'll have to bear with me because i know almost nothing about engines. I know i have to put antifreze in the radiator every time i start it, but there no leaks. I wonder is this because there is no overflow tank. I also found out the original radiator had a 0lb cap and this one has a 6lb-is this because of the bigger motor. The brakes work fine for a while, then they just stick. The previous owner put new brakes on it.

The normal level of coolant in the radiator tank is about 1-2 iches below the opening. The tank look low but do not worry.

An original radiator was made for up to about 7 lbs of pressure (on a Chevy auto engine). The truck pressure was 0-4 lbs of pressure, depending on the size of truck. The over heating is most likely not due to the radiator cap.

How low does the fluid in the tank end up after it overheats and comes out through the overflow tube?

What does your temp gauge read when the engine overheats?

Is it possible that the fan on the 292 engine is pointing too high at the radiator?

Regarding the brakes, 3B's theory is reasonable but another culprit might be that the plunger in the master cylinder (or brake cylinders) is/are not returning after you apply the brakes. Do the brakes pull to one side (if not, it might be the master cylinder).

Tim

The other day i drove it i filled it up prior, drove 15 minutes to brother-in-laws house. It drove just fine. Took him for a ride then the brakes started sticking. I had to pull the choke out just to make it back at about 10 mph. When i got back i let it sit for an hour. Checked the brakes they had come back to normal position. Checked the antifreze it was low again so i filled it back up. Waited 30 minutes and started to leave, when i got to the bottom of the driveway the brakes stuck again, i tried to back up but couldnt, so i drove 1/4 mile to my other brother-in laws. When i stopped all the antifreze started gushing out the tube. My wife went and got it the next day and drove it home with no incident. Sorry so long, but im a beginner.

The brakes may be your culprit. If you're driving with the brakes on you probably are overheating the engine.

If all of his brakes are locking, wouldn't it be his master cylinder that is most likely the cause?

Not necessarily. Could be that the brakes are adjusted up too tight. You might try jacking the truck up (set on jackstands for safety) and see if the hweels will spin feely, with only a slight drag. If not, then there is most likely an adjustment issue. Here's a diagram that shows the adjuster location (it's a '54, but similar to the '53) http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/shop/1954truck/54ctsm0502.html
It could also be the plunger as Tim stayes as well. Process of elimination will be the best way to find the culprit, starting with the easiest thing to fix. If you don't feel comfortable with working on brakes, then you should seek out a professional to either assist you or peform the repairs.
I am under the impression that your truck is still running the stock type brakes.

infantrylife,

It sounds like you might have several problems going on...at least to me. When you fill the radiator, then check it again later and it's low, can you account for the lost coolant.

If it is blowing out the filler neck or leaking out the waterpump, there should be at least a few tell tale signs around the engine compartment. Something will probably be wet!

If this isn't the case, a blown head gasket can drink up the coolant and cause the engine to overheat...both at the same time.

If your radiator has cooler lines going to the bottom tank, this can be a source of heat too, especially if the tranny is goofed up and producing lots of heat.

I would rely on my nose a little on this one. What do you smell. Do you smell brake linings cooking, maybe hot ATF or the sweet smell of boiling and burning antifreeze. A white contrail out the back of the truck is a clue too.

Keep an open mind to more than just one problem.

Stuart

In my opinion, for what it's worth, the brakes shouldn't cause the engine to over heat. That kind of drag shouldn't be any worse than pulling a trailer or hauling a load. I would look for a plugged radiator and or a head/head gasket problem. A proper diagnoses should be done instead of just hanging parts and hoping for the best.

If the brakes have just recently been done, my money is on being adjusted too tight. When I do brakes, I go for a drive afterwards with a brake adjusting tool on board. If I feel them starting to drag and smell like a burnt clutch, I pull over and back them off until they don't drag.

Without being there to see it first hand, this is just an educated guess on my part,
Good luck,
Scott

If your cooling system is that weak, how would it ever pull or haul a load? I've had 8 ton of gravel on my 48 and drive it 5 miles home with the gas pedal flat on the floor, never getting above 35 MPH. Never got too hot. If that's not drag on a truck, I don't know what is,
Scott

Infantrylife, I know from experience that if there is ANY moisture or condensation in the brake system the heat from the exhaust alone will cause the brake fluid to expand and lock up the brakes. Check the master cylinder you might have to clean flush the entire system. Check the exhaust system to see if the brake lines run to close, might have to shield the lines.

If the brakes are locking up completely, you wouldn't be driving it! It wouldn't be moving. In my scenerio, the engine was working as hard as it could, only being able to move the truck up to 35 MPH at best. A properly working cooling system will prevent over heating, that's what it's made for. I've seen e-brakes burned complete out on cars and the customers didn't even know that it was on. I'm talking from years of mechanical experience JDL, are you?
Scott

Gudday Infantryman,
A simple question.....have you got;

A; Drum brakes all round.
B; Discs at the front, drums at the rear.
C; Four wheel disc brakes fitted.

It is possible that someone without the appropriate knowledge may have fitted the wrong type of master cylinder to your Truck.
A drum brake system will have a residual pressure valve fitted in relation to stock 4 wheel drum systems.

If a disc braked front end has been fitted without the residual pressure valve being removed from your master cylinder, your brakes WILL lock up after a very short drive.
The same applies to a 4 wheel disc set-up running the drum brake equipped master cylinder.
It is easy to find and remove the residual valve yourself.......but you do need at least a simple understanding of mechanical knowledge to do so.

Take it to a brake expert, explain the problem and mention the residual pressure valve.

They might think you know what you are talking about and not rip you off too much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All the best, Doc Bob

FIrst on your brakes...You mentioned that the previous owner redid the brakes. How long ago was it that he did it? Did he just put shoes on it or go through it completely? If it was a few years already and it hasn't been used much, You may need to clean out the wheel cylinders and master cylinder. They can corrode and not release properly.

If the radiator is just pi$$ing a bit of anti freeze when you shut it off, that could be normal. Like someone already said, the radiator fluid level will be a couple of inches from the top. If you fill it every time, it is going to overflow a bit when you shut it off. I wouldn't call that overheating.

I might of missed it, but what is the temp reaching when running?

You've got a lot of responses to your problem. From my experience I would first check to see if the radiator is partially stopped up or if the radiator needs to be hosed out thru its fins. A blocked radiator, either external or internal, will make it heat up quick. Also don't keep the radiator too full of water, it will only cause it to keep blowing out the extra water. A blown head gasket will cause heating problems, too but check out other possible causes first. As for the brakes see if you have any wet marks on the inside of your tires. If so you may have leaking wheel cylinders which can cause the brakes to stick. I've replaced both of my rear wheel cylinders on my truck and that did away with my brake sticking problems. Good Luck! JAMES

Wow, what a lot of responses! You guys are great! I might have got you guys confused-When I said it overheats (dont know the temp because the gauges arent hooked up) I think its because it loses antifreze fluid-i got to find this out.
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Now the brakes, i think they are drums. I didnt take the tire off but i see no pads like our new vehicles just these large drum things. Sorry dont know to much about it. They dont lock up completly just enough where i can only go about 5 mph.
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My family know all this stuff i was just trying to figure out myself so i could look smart. Thanks again for all the help!

jdl,

It's my turn to interpret for you...I think he is saying adios, finis, comprendo!

Stuart

Fine, sorry I was so bothersome.

You guys werent bothersome, you are all really helpful to someone that knows nothing about this stuff.