The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk My frame is getting sandblasted!!!!!

I've been spending alot of time on my frame lately. I'll use a twisted wire wheel on a angle grinder and "zero-rust" it afterwards. Man...It's takin forever. A buddy of mine came over last night and mentioned a mutual friend of ours bought a diesel air compressor with a big a$$ sandblaster. Well to make a long story short, I just got back from dropping the frame off to get blasted. He's gonna do it Monday and then I'll bring it home and paint it right afterwards. YEA!!! I'll post some before and after pix next week. Can't wait to see it!

Good for you! Now for me to get back to seeing if my truck will start!

Fantastic Ron, once you get it painted you'll fill like your finally get something done......way to go. I'm hoping to be blasting on my fenders and doors next week. I know your excited and believe me....I know about the wire brush deal!! Whew!!

Good Deal Ron!

I picked up the frame last night...what a thing of beauty! Question though concerning the paint used on it. When I was wire wheeling the frame, I would paint the areas that were cleaned with Zero-Rust to keep it from flash rusting. The fella who sandblasted it for me said the paint that was on it came off real easy. Now I know it was hit with some perty aggresive pressure and sand but he said it shouldn't have come off that easy. Is Zero-Rust the paint to use for the frame? Or should I use some thing else? I've never used POR-15 but from what I read on other threads, that's the cat meow for frames. Maybe I'm painting the Zero-Rust the wrong way...is there a wrong way? I just brushed it on with a paint brush. Should I use rattle cans? I should get something on it real soon, but now I'm not sure what to use. HELP!!!!!

Thanks from the DOG!

Por-15 is what I used ,Ron. It seems to be holding up great. Can't comment on the zero-rust paint, never used it!

Mummdogg, I thought that it had to cure for a long time?

Ron,Call Bruce Palmer @ Zero Rust (great guy). Instructions for Zero Rust need to be followed carefully as regards time between coats and for thickness of each coat. If the first coats don't dry correctly the following coats seal them and they never dry completely. POR 15 is dangerous if you don't use the correct respirator-- if you use it make sure about protection.

I just did mine last fall..I decided to go with epoxy primer from Southern Polyurathane(sp?)..I had some extra time so I top coated that with chassi paint from Eastwoods...probably was overkill..but if you love what your doin..what a little overkill..The truth be know I even wet sanded between coats..It's a nice middle of the road look...not as nice as filling and sanding..but smooth as a baby's behinh...I went with semi-gloss

Just my $.02

Keith

The question is, will your truck be a show truck or an extra fine example of an old truck that looks new?

If not a show truck just use a good primer and epoxy paint. Remember from the factory they aren't painted and they are still working pretty well. Besides they're under there where they can't be seen. I primed and used Dupont Epoxy.

I like PPG DP90 black primer as a first and final coat for a working truck frame.

When I worked in a restoration shop that's what we used for parts that were supposed to be black but not glossy, and it holds up really good. We did several chassis with just DP90.
I had my frame powder coated to match the color and texture of DP90, and used it for my axles, springs, and other chassis components that were not powder coated.

Grigg

My vote is POR15 which some say is expensive but in the end its cheaper than rattle cans.....and I have done it both ways.

Just curious, how much does it cost (an estimate) to get frame powder coated?

I was quoted $175.00

Wow , thats not bad, I will check with some of the shops around here, Thanks!

That price did not include sandblasting.

The place I used did a really nice job.
Had the frame for my 2 ton, about 18' long, also a bunch of small parts, cross members, running board brackets, trailer hitch.... Total powder coating (without sand blasting) was $650.

Before: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2858777480080251109QvHMaJ
After: http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2606792970080251109wxkOTl

Grigg

Mine was $400 for sandblast and powdercoat.

Just remember to have everything fixed or modified before coating. You can not touch up powder coat! paint you can repair. Joe

That is a problem..
I have been drilling holes in my frame after it was powder coated, just put masking tape over where the hole will be.
But I was sure to do all the welding I would need before coating.

There are a few small details I should have fixed that no one else may even notice, but had I had the time between sand blasting and coating to give it one more look over I would have caught it.
Just don't be in a rush to get it out for blasting and coating, as they won't fix anything you may have missed..

Grigg

Ok, thanks for the info. I can do the sandblasting myself, I have a blaster and all, so thats no problem. Again, thanks for the tips.

Ron,

I dodn't think POR-15 and perhaps zero rust are made to go over clean metal. There seem to be problems, or blame when that is done. You should check the Paint & Body forum for those coatings, lots of opinion. Since you have blasted it, I would use a good epoxy primer and a compatible topcoat.

Here is a link to a good article about flattening PPG paints for chassis use. It's a sticky in Paint and body at Chevy talk. Good luck and remember we like before and after and after pics.

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/132519/

I find that PPG DP90 is just right for a semi-flat black chassis primer/paint.

I just painted my transmission with DP74, the red oxide version, next week will be DP90 for my air tanks.

Grigg

Eric...Thanks for the heads up. I think I will post something in Paint and Body concerning Zero-Rust.

Thanks,

Has any one else recieved the NEW Eastwood catalog?..they have out a NEW Ceramic frame paint, 2 part epoxy...looks like the new Fad!

I just received the catal;og in the mail, but haven't looked over it yet. Maybe tonight.

I must receive one a week!