The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop The right way to change gaskets?

I just picked up a good running inline 250 for my '49 and I want to at least replace oil pan, valve cover and maybe head gaskets but want to know the proper long lasting way of doing it. Do I put the gaskets on dry or do they also need a gasket maker as well or is gasket maker better? Thanks.

lazy j,

This is one of those things where everyone has their tried and true method. I have always done my gaskets in this fashion.

Remove the old gasket and wire brush the surface to get it spotlessly clean. Hammer any bolt-through flange flat on your work bench so no dimple's remain.

I spray both sides of the gasket and the mating surface of the pan, valve cover or other item with Permatex High-Tack gasket adhesive and let them dry.

Apply the gasket to the pan, valve cover or other item and install. Certain areas on the pan gasket get a dab of silicone which I let set up for awhile before I install the pan.

Many folks swear by the silicone gaskets makers and they too work fine. I don't like the appearance of the snot hanging out between the mating surfaces if you over apply the stuff.


Stuart

My opinion is as such - I use permatex Ultra Copper, and lightly coat both sides of the gasket like Stuart does with the High-Tack. I apply a little more where needed in corners of going around main bearing journals, etc. This has never lead to a gasket leak, and the minimum ammount keeps the gasket material from squishing out and looking like snot.

I use Ultra Copper as you can apply over oil and it has the widest general temperature range. Head gaskets are put on dry

HTH

Scott

I have a brother who is a farm mechanic. He swears that you should only use gasket sealant on one side of the gasket. The reason is that if you ever have to remove a component, you can get it off. Once the part is off, you can then scrape off remaining gasket or sealant. So far this has worked pretty well for me.

Just so we have everything covered. I use a Scotch Brite pad in a right angle die grinder to clean all the surfaces were the gasket goes. If the surfaces are clean you shouldn't need gasket sealer. That's what my Dad taught me, with one excepting. The exception was to use " Indian Head" gasket cement on motorcycle cases. I have one more exception and I add RTV were two gaskets meet, i.e. were the intake gskt meets intake head gaskets and pan gskt meets the gskt around the crank. To my Dads' way of thinking gasket sealers came under the heading of gas additives. If the gasket needs to be held in place tie it on with some string. That's "Old school" my Dad started working in a gas station in 1932.

Larry

This is the same way my dad taught me to use sealant but for different reasons. If you coat both sides you can displace the gasket when tightening the part down. The only exception I make is with oil pans as I tend to lean on the heavier side with the sealant here.

Like said above, cleanliness is the most important part.

Jeff

My dad told me to make sure everything is spotlessly clean first. Then he said put a thin film of gasket sealant on the side of the gasket that is on the part and not the engine block, that way if you have to clean it off, you're not scraping in some odd angle under your vehicle. You can always see better at the workbench compared to hanging upside down under the truck. And make sure to torque everything down properly and it shouldn't leak. He also said that it doesn't hurt to put some on both sides if it is a high stress area or where two gaskets meet.

Just changed the water pump on my Buick V8. After making certain the mating surface on the block was clean and flat I put gasket cement on the pump and put the gasket on it. When it was dry and secure I put the pump on the block without any more adhesive.
Of all the gasket goo type stuff out there i have found that Permatex Window Strip Adhesive (yellow) works best for me in all applications.

I would go for dry. If you ever want to take this thing apart again, the various sealers will make the job much more difficult- and you probably regret the decision to glue the gaskets in place. You can use a layer of chassis grease to hold gaskets in place where they are likely to fall off while you working with the part.

Harvester

For oil pan gasket I think the biggest "key" is to make sure the oil pan gasket surface is straight. Most of them are out of shape from the bolts being tightened over the years, or overtightened. You'll need to straighten the gasket surface first and foremost. Use a torque wrench when tightening them again. You'll be amazed at how little torque it takes for these.

After scraping the gasket surfaces, I like to try and remove any previous gasket glues with some lacquer thinner and rag.

I've used Gaskacinch, Hi-tach, and a few others with good results. Gaskacinch seems to work well and removes fairly easily too. Although there are places to use for sealing with these products, I try to use these products sparingly and to keep the gasket in place, not to seal. That is what the gasket is for.

Everyone has a personal preference for gaskets and sealers used. In my years of experience I've found the biggest mistake people make is using cheap / inexpensive made gaskets. Make sure to use a gasket made with top quality products and is fresh off the shelf and not something thats sat around for years and years. As far as any "goop" I've found all thats needed is a small dab where 2 gaskets meet such as an oil pan to the end gaskets. RTV type sealers seems to work the best and last the longest because they don't set up rock hard. As mentioned above, cleanliness is also very important.
Good Luck
Don

Have you noticed it is getting harder to get i diff cover gasket.
I have never found a place where gasket in a tube works better.
And if you think that snot hanging around on the out side of the gasket in the tube job looks bad..........Think about whats going on inside.
Also?
I must be getting old; because i can remember setting around with a ballpeen hammer making gaskets.

Somehow I knew I would get 10 different opinions on this. The gaskets may be fine, but I just figure it sure can't hurt to change them before I put the motor in. I did get to hear it run so that makes me sleep better at night. I do appreciate the help guys!

By the By,
Some bolts will "wick" oil or, in some cases, water, coolant. I personally prefer to dab a touck of sealant, your choice, on the threads to prevent this. My .02 worth, works for me.
dg