The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 53 Chevy 3100 - To buy or not to buy

Ever since I sold my 58 Chevy Apache, I've regretted it. So when I found a 53 Chevy 3100 for sale, my first instinct was to pounce on it!

Its a survivor. No dents, dings or rust anywhere. Completely and totally original. Even the upholstery is original and only has one minor tear. I think it may have 68k original miles on it. (I'll know more tomorrow)

With all that info, what I'm wondering is - For an asking price of $2500. Is it worth it?

Are the 6 volt systems hard to work with? I haven't driven it yet but the owner (who isn't mechanically inclined) just says when asked how it drives, "It drives like an old truck. I know nothing about them." Starts up on the first try, shifts fine so I'm told and I believe it will need a new brake master cylinder or a really good bleed as he says you have to pump the brakes since they fade.

Can these be kept totally stock? Do people still do that? You can tell I'm new at this and I've spent the last few hours googling for answers. Most seem to trick it out with a new motor etc...

I'm not looking to drive the truck far. Just around town.

Can anyone let me know what I might be in for? Does this look like a good deal? I've checked out the forums and information on this site and its really informative. I'm glad I found it.

Thanks in advance!

Savage.

Welcome Savage!

You'll get a lot of different answers to your questions, all of them pretty well-informed. I drive a stock '53 3100, and I think it's a great truck like it is. There are a lot of guys here who will swear by the stock model, and a lot who wouldn't dream of driving a stock truck in modern traffic.
Basically, a stock truck with its low-geared babbit-pounding 216 and simple brakes doesn't want to go over 50 mph and takes a while to stop. If that is all right with you, then keep it stock. Working on the truck is simple, a well-maintained 6 volt system will serve you well.
Search this site you'll find a lot of good advice for dealing with the brakes and what you might want to do with the motor.
Is it worth $2500? Maybe, especially if it isn't rusty. I paid a little less for mine, same mileage as yours, a little rust, not running and without brakes.
It's in running order now, and it's a great truck. I would never dream of changing the motor. Whatever you do, choose something you can drive and have fun with.

Karl

Welcome Savage!
If it's in good shape as it seems to be, I feel that it would be worth it. I have a 54 3100 that I've had for over 30 years, have driven it quite a bit and I've always kept it stock. Right now I'm doing a frame up restoration on it, keeping it stock, so that it will last another 50+ years. It's not hard keeping it stock. What is most important is that you're happy with your truck, which means that you can keep it stock or make it as you want. Enjoy it!!
Samantha

Savage,
$2500? Depends on how much things go for in your area. Around here a truck with no rust and in running condition could very well fetch that much or maybe a little more.Stock or modified? That's something entirely up to you. If all you're going to do is drive it occasionaly aroud town, there's nothing wrong with keeping it stock. I went modified because I drive mine a lot on the freeways and 50mph there will get you in a lot trouble. Bottom line as I see it is it's your truck. Don't let someone talk you into doing something you don't really want to do.

Thanks folks! I appreciate the welcome and the input. Its nice to hear from people that have "been there, done that" and can pass along that knowledge.

Being in Central California, things seem to be a bit higher priced here. Not sure if its just because a lot of the oldies are relatively rust free or if people are just willing to pay a bit more.

There are cars here I see in yards that have $2000 prices on them that I saw sitting in Oklahoma with a sign that said "Free! You haul it!"

Eh, either way - I'm going to go grab a 6 volt battery, go check out the truck again and this time hear it run and get it to move. Then hopefully we can strike a deal.

You know when you come across something and it haunts you for a couple of days and tells you "You're gonna regret NOT buying me sooooo... make a move!!" that you'd best listen to your gut and go for it.

I think this is going to be a fun project. Keep your fingers crossed. The owner should be calling me this afternoon as I've got first dibs on it according to him. (And if I get it, I'll be back with pictures! Do I post them here?)

Sounds like a good price for a running truck. Of course offer less and see if he'll haggle.

In my opinion, a truck that stock should be left stock. People who want to modernize an old truck should start with one that's already been used up. It makes me sick when people start cutting on running, original trucks.

Post your pictures on a hosting site like Photobucket and post a link here.

I'm a restore kind of guy too. Most of the fun of owning and driving these old vehicles is living with their quirks. As for the price, it would be a bit high here but not a deal killer. In California it's probably fairly reasonable. Welcome to the 'bolt and as noted above if a search of the forums doesn't turn up answers to your questions there is always plenty of help ready & waiting.

Where I live in Vancouver BC area,I couldn't even find a driver for less than $7500.00 so part of the price question also depends on where you live.The best deal I found was an AD in Spokane Washington for $10,000.00 and with money exchange,taxes,etc. it would have been around $15,000.00.Then the guy started insisting I pay another $2,000.00 or what ever to trailer it,I just abandoned the idea at that point,because the gods were smiling at me and gave me a deal I simply couldn't refuse not 10 miles from home.

Go for it otherwise you may regret it. This past year I saw a 39 Chevy coupe that was a mild hot rod and real nice with an excellent price. I told the guy, a friend of mine I would buy it but changed my mind. I called back a few weeks later and it was sold. A few weeks back I came across a 37 Plymouth four door sedan in original condition owned by the same man for 30 years. It was really a different kind of vehicle for me but I loved it. The phone number was on a card in the window but I didn't take it. Thought I would see the car the next day at our cruise-in. I did see it and it had been sold that day. I truly regretted both those decisions on my part.
As to the 53 truck. If its complete and you like it - take it. Sounds good to me and if you don't like it you can sell it and easily recoup what you paid.

It sounds like a good deal to me. Iv,e never been able to find a good solid truck for that price. If you can do most of the work yourself you will enjoy it. if you have to start taking it to private shops to get work done it may get you upside down real quick.

If it's as good as you described "POUNCE" and don't look back. The half tons in good shape are hard to find.

I share the same views as Cletis, if your looking for something closer to a street rod, or even seriously modified, get something already headed that direction. You might even save a little money, depending on condition.

All things considered, if you buy it, it will be yours, and you have every right to do as you please. I just feel that it is a shame to butcher something that has survived this long.

Welcome to the "Bolt" glad to have you on board.

John

Thanks everybody!!!

I just had it trailered home since it needs a new brake MC and BOY do I have a LOT to learn!

I so want to just fire it up and take it for a spin but I want to do things in the right order. Today I happen to have the time and a couple extra bucks (not many tho, ack!) and am going to flush the radiator, new spark plug wires, drain the oil and get it a new filter. Oh, and gas would help.

Then I'll try it.

I need to search the forums for a few things.

Like - Does it have to be on and running in order to shift that sucker? Does it have a neutral? You know, little things. lol.

I am so glad that this forum is here. I'm going to make good use of the knowledge that is available.

Savage

(oh, and for all the girl truck owners out there - add another one to the midst. )

Great Find, congrats, welcome to the 'bolt. Sounds like you found a gem in the rough, and you are headed in the right direction.

Scott.

PS, now post some pics of the truck.

PPS, glad to see another gal on here.

Pictures to come pretty soon. Been out trying to start it. I dont think the battery I got has enough cranking amps. I get *whirrr......whirrr....whirrr.....* but no VROOM.

It has gas. At one point I thought I had burned out the starter motor. Stepped on the starter and nothing. Not a click or whir. Then when looking at the starter itself I saw a button on top and thought "hmmm..what does THIS button do?" I pushed it and about cracked my head on the hood when it fired up the starter. ACK!

So I've got the battery sitting on the charger for a bit. Will go back out with starter fluid and try it again.

I need to traverse the site and find out about the air (?) filter (its got another name but for the life of me its not coming to me right now.. oily lil sucker.) and something I read about "trim" ?? The "T" knob in the truck. Anyway.. need to figure it out. (and if I'm headed in the wrong direction with names and such... steer me??)

So, am off to search the site. See ya in the forums!

Savage.

and... DOH! It was the throttle I was thinking of. Not trim. oy.

Uh, where does the throttle hook up to? Mine is disconnected in the engine compartment. I'm looking at an online manual to see but if anyone happens to know?

Thanks again everyone.

Congrats!! With the proper medication and good professional therapy you should be able to learn to live with the affliction of owning an old truck. I've seen it said here before, "if it can be built, it can be fixed". Just remember that it's a machine, and that if it has tits or wheels, sooner or later it'll give you trouble and you'll be fine. Anyone with bucks can drive a new truck, but the old ones are what has soul and set you apart from the masses.
DJ

The throttle cable goes from the dash, through the firewall, and then routes over to the carburetor. The wire then attaches to the carburetor ("carb"). If you have someone push the gas pedal down you can see a lever move on the carb. Right around there is where the throttle wire will hook up. I'm sure someone can dig up a picture for you.

Oil bath air filter.

Pull the plugs, see if you have compression. If not, squirt a little wd40 down the cylinders, put the plugs back in, then try it. Engines that have sat for a while have lost the oil film on the rings.

Hope this helps.

Depends on what's been cobbled up on your carburetor. Congratulations on a very fine purchase at an excellent price, even if it needs the entire undercarriage overhauled(brakes, steering, springs, shackles, wheels, tires, frick'n everything, AND if the engine is junk, you still did okay from my point of view. For the moment, old American trucks are still vastly undervalued, I think.

You need a shop manual. Reprints of the factory's offering are readily available, and the San Joaquin is well seeded with enthusiast vendors. You won't have a problem finding what you need once you start looking.

6-Volt systems are stone simple and not at all unreliable - keep in mind that this unit is more than 1/2 century old, and may need to be brought up to snuff - but one idiosyncracy of a 6V starting system is that it needs bigger wires and better connections than a 12V system. What people are accustomed to doing for current vehicles won't quite do for a 6V system. Disassemble all the connections in the starting circuit - there aren't many - and make liberal and vigorous use of a wire brush. Don't forget the ground strap which goes from the engine (or the bellhousing) to the frame, and the battery's ground.

To answer a question in your first post, yes. These trucks can be kept absolutely stock, and are completely up to the traffic except for a few things: Mirrors, tires and final drive ratio. If your truck is not to be a museum piece or an occasionally-driven show-off vehicle, you'll want to see behind you as well as in front. Radial tires will run cooler, smoother and longer with better traction, and a taller diff ratio will allow your engine to run with the more relaxed traffic on the interstate without overtaxing itself. Improved fuel economy will be a tangible bonus.

Here's a more-or-less current pic of my old girl:
[img]http://thumb11.webshots.net/t/53/653/4/32/86/2127432860096215731gHSwdY_th.jpg[/img]
The old brakes have been freshened up and are adequate, if not breathtaking. This truck works very well indeed, and is not at all far from original. Click on the pic for a larger image, and hunt around the hosting site. Webshots works well enough, but I think I like picpost better.

I also forgot to ask the q's on the basics.

Have you verified the following prior to battery, ignition, and stomping on the starter?

Ignition: points, timing, dwell, etc. Is spark actually present?

Fuel: quality of fuel, fuel filter, carb gaskets, diaphragm? Is fuel being delivered to the engine?

I also agree with Hotshoe, new rubber, brakes, and a more friendly final drive will make the truck a little nicer to drive.

Excellent advice and thanks for the name of that oil bath air filter thingy!

I'll give everything a once over tomorrow. Darned shorter days - I lost the light too early tonight.
Y'all have given me some great starting points.

Basically it needs everything drained, lubed, brushed, checked.. all that good stuff.

I did find the manual online!
http://chevy.tocmp.com/chevyowner/53tomindex.htm
How cool is that? Isn't the power of the internet sometimes an awesome thing?

Here is one pic. Will have better ones soon.
picture

The wheel on the front right is different but I have an original to replace it. The other 3 are stock.

It has a new tailgate in the box ready to be installed tomorrow too and I'll be making a custom back bumper for it.

Argh.. Can ya tell I'm excited?

That truck is a beauty. A good find, congratulations! Take it one step at a time and don't rush to get it moving until you are certain of the brakes and the fluids in the crankcase, transmission and rear end.
When you mentioned "T" for trim I thought you might be a pilot!

buy it now if you dont like it you can sell it to someone in canada up here near seattle there all over the place you can get a good one for 1500. or less once your out in the country a tricked out v8 truck for 5 to 7500. good luck

That is a fine looking truck. Also, if you want a stock looking bumper, they are not that expensive, around only $150 for a new shiney one.

nice truck good luck with it.......dave

I'm going through it and cleaning it up today.

2 questions I'll search the board for but if anyone happens along with the answers in the mean time - it sure would help.

What do you clean the air oil filter breather thingy with? I saw where they say to soak it good to clean it, let it drain etc... But whats the best thing to soak it in? Also, it has an oil fill line on the inside of its housing. Just fill it to that line with regular oil?

And -- What are the cranking amps on a 6volt battery that is needed to get this thing fired up?
I bought a cheapy battery at Kragen and may be regretting it. I should have gone with Sears or somewhere else.

Thanks again folks.

Savage

Very nice score!!

John

You don,t have to soak the oil bath air cleaner unless it is real dirty. Dump the oil out & wipe all the surfaces with solvent. Gasoline works good if you are careful. The heavy dirt will be in the bottom of the oil resoirvoir. Nows a good time to put some black paint on it if you want to detail things a bit. Fill it up with oil to the line. I don,t remember the CCA ratings on 6 volt bats. but you want to get the strongest one you can.

your truck might have a 12 volt is why the battery will not start it.thansk

I have heard that the ground cable is much more important when you have 6 volt. Needs to be sized right and cleanly grounded.

Cool!

Ok, silly question but - how does one determine if it is a 6 volt or a 12?

Everything looks totally original in it. Wiring wise. The previous owner said it was 6 volt but I'm finding he knew less than he thought he did about things. Could it have been converted over to a 12 volt a long time ago?

What would happen if I stuck a 12 volt in it and tried to crank it up? Would I fry everything?
I wouldn't do that unless I were sure it was truly 12 volt but... Where do I look to find out?

Thanks again, guys.

Oh, and might I say - The search function on this site is awesome! I've found so many answers to questions.

Savage.

Oh and, er.. I was reading about some vehicles having a positive ground? Does this? How do you tell? I just see the braided strap going to the frame and the red cable going to the starter.
I figure that looks normal for negative ground, right?

Ugh. So much to learn. But its fun!

Do not stick in a 12 volt battery until you are certain the system has been converted. The first thing you would ruin is your gas gauge. Been there-done that.
Braided strap to the chassis is ground and obviously the other is positive. Make certain where the braided strap attaches to the chassis the area is clean of rust and such.

Brake clean is a nice cheap spray solvent for cleaning the oil bath if needed, however you should just be able to pour out the sludge, wipe with a rag, then re-oil. IIRC correctly, the oil is simple engine oil, was SAE 30 for the time.

If the truck was converted, the gauges may have the little resistors added to the back side, however simple way to tell is that you should get about 100-125 RPM durring cranking. However again, back to basics, do we have fuel, ignition, and compression?

Scott

Braided strap to the chassis IS ground, to be sure. But on my truck it is the positive, and the negative goes to the starter. Back to that later: First, have you cleaned all your connections yet? Good. Then hook it up with the ground to the negative and try the starter. If the engine turns backwards your system is positive ground. No harm done. Reverse the polarity and try it again. (hint: if you're sitting in the cab with the hood open, peeking through the crack at the fan, and it turns in a counter-clockwise direction so as to pull air through the radiator, things are good)

Probably the best and easiest way to determine if it is a 6V system is to look for stamps on electrical components. Look at the coil. It's right out in front of God and everybody.

I clean my oooooill baaaaath aaaaair cleeeeaner with gasoline, outside of course, then hang it to dry and refill to the line with light oil, like 10W.

Positive ground was a GMC feature, if you have a Chevy, it's almost certainly negative ground.

John

"oooooill baaaaath aaaaair cleeeeaner"

lmao! Thanks for that. I promise not to forget the name of it again and call it a thingy. lol!!

I'm waiting for some help with pushing it up into the drive. Being curbside right now and at an angle, I don't dare jack it up to check things underneath. Under the hood tho, I can do. Got the throttle put back together. Will be cleaning and checking the tightness of all electrical connections tomorrow. My spark plug wires should be in by then as well so I can get started on that. $50 for a coil and they need to order it! Ack! I'm putting that off for later tho. Not even sure I need it.

Thanks for the info on the pos or neg!

Savage.

rsavage, I have a little help for you although I am not and do not claim to be a mechanic. I have never seen a Chevrolet with positive ground. That don't say they have not been made, I just don't know of any. Second, did the truck come with a battery in it? Years ago, 6-volt batteries had 3 fill caps; 12-volts had 6. I like to see vehicles original or restored and not modified. However, due to expensive hard learned lessons with 216 engines, if I had a Chevy with a 216-inch engine I would look for a later model 235 engine and not have to worry about burning rod bearings out. Sooner or later you will wind up wanting to drive the truck on tours or to shows and if you are like me, your foot can get awful heavy on the gas pedal.

Jay 1124

Thanks Jay.

I'm pretty sure its negative ground. Just reading some of the details on some posts gets confusing sometimes and makes you wonder, "what the heck do I have here?" lol.

According to notes and scribbles, it seems the engine is a 235(?). I need to search the forums and find out if there is a post about a place for an ID stamp as to what engine it is. The previous owner said it was 6volt and had an old dead 6volt in his garage but - Since he drove it once and admitted to not being mechanically inclined - who knows.

I'm going with the theory that it is a plain ol 6 volt, negative ground truck that I need to remove and clean/tighten all connections to.

I cranked it again tonight to no avail. About 4 tries and the battery goes quiet. It has 624 CCA but I'm not sure if thats enough. Good news is tho that the motor does spin. Starter engages. Fuel pump must work as there was gas getting to the new, dry fuel filter.

Spark plugs might be in tomorrow. I'll test each one and make sure I've got spark.

I am sooooooo impatient!! I wanna drive it NOW but know to take it one step at a time.


Savage.