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Joined: Jul 2007
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New Guy
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First of all - I have no mechanical knowledge about the '50 Chev 3600 5 window p/u I bought several years ago. I was always gonna fix it up, but finally realized I'll never have the knowledge myself or the bucks to do it. So after sitting for a year (and it really was running when I parked it) I had it towed to get the battery charged and the gas drained. Now I've been told it doesn't have a dead battery - the engine has little (or no) compression and it has a knocking sound. Basically I need a new engine.
I need some advice - is it better to sell it "as is" or go ahead and put a rebuilt engine in it then sell it?

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If you can't change the engine yourself, I would sell it like it is. I would assume, since you had to tow it to get the battery charged and tank drained, that an engine swap would cost a pretty penny for you. If you had a shop or place to work on it, then you could get a cheap used engine and swap it out to get it running to sell it for more, but you don't appear to be in that situation. I say sell it like it is if you have to. Good luck with your decision... smile

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Thanks CD - I was quoted $3500 for a rebuilt engine & labor with a 70,000 mi warranty. Any idea what a primered '50 Chev p/u sells for w/o a running engine?

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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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What kind of condition is it in otherwise?

You won't get top price for a real nice truck if it doesn't run and needs a new motor. On the other hand, if it needs much other work you're not going to gain as much replacing the motor as you are likely to spend doing it UNLESS you can do it yourself and get a real cheap or free motor.

My other question is can you trust the diagnosis this mechanic made? These are low compression motors to start with, and they are relatively noisy compared to today's motors. If your mechanic is young and doesn't have much experience with these motors you may have received poor advice.

And to go a step further, some people do not like these early sixes, and may be inclined to condemn one not because its worn out, but because they would rather work on something else.

With those comments made, I went back and reread your question. If you are going to sell it regardless, sell it as is. You won't make money fixing it.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
It's true. I really don't do anything but browse the Internet looking for trouble...
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Good Point - OldSub. Thanks.

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I have to agree with OldSub. If it were me, I'd recharge the battery, or use a jumper cable, pour a little raw gas in the carb and crank her up. I bet you she'll start and run. My experience (albeit limited) is that most of today's younger mechanics are clueless about these old stovebolts. Having bought a new engine for a Mustang years ago when it was not necessary, I now am very wary when a "mechanic" comes up with such a diagnosis. I just got burned by a "professional mechanic" who assured me that the SBC I put in my 56 was a "great engine that just needed a cam". I'm now in the process of removing and replacing with another engine, because the first had REALLY LOW compression. Point is, take a little time and really check it all out. I would wager that you are probably as smart or smarter than most of today's "pro's" where these old trucks are concerned.

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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Did the shop where you sent it get it running at all? I'm going to have to call BS on their diagnosis unless they've done enough work to determine what kind of knock you're dealing with. It's impossible to diagnose a knock if they're doing nothing more than spinning the engine at cranking speed for a compression check.

Call the tow truck again, and get that rig to a real mechanic! It's entirely possible the next thing you hear is going to be a really lowball offer from the shop that's reccomending the engine work to "take it off your hands". At least get a second opinion from someone not associated with the shop that's working on it now.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
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'Bolter
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How did it run before you parked it? It can't just wear out sitting in your garage. I'll bet there's very little wrong with that engine, like everyone else says, get a second opinion,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
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Yeah, I'm gonna take all you guys' advice and get a second opinion. The mechanic said the battery charged right up, but the engine wouldn't turn over - not enough compression. I dunno, maybe he doesn't have the experience working on those engines. The truck was running O.K. before. I'll get the tow truck truck out there first thing Monday morning.

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'Bolter
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Some tow truck drivers will try to start it for you right there.Maybe for a few extra $$.
Dont hurt to ask................

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Quote
Originally posted by dutchgal:
Yeah, I'm gonna take all you guys' advice and get a second opinion. The mechanic said the battery charged right up, but the engine wouldn't turn over - not enough compression.
If the mechanic said what you wrote here, get it to someone else. He is full of @#!&. Unless I have gotten so old and out of touch with new methods of testing a motor, he has no idea what the compression is without turning the motor over. Compression is the pressure built up in the cylinder when the motor TURNS OVER.


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Yep, he sounds like a real winner! I'd suggest getting someone to pull the spark plugs, and squirt some lightweight oil or Diesel fuel into the cylinders, then let it sit for about a week before trying to crank it. It sounds like the piston rings are stuck to the cylinder walls, not uncommon on one that sits idle for a few months. It's also pretty easy to break one loose with little or no damage, more often than not. Also get your real mechanic to check for stuck valves before he tries to crank it.

DO NOT get impatient and try to push it or tow it and then pop the clutch to get the engine to turn. That can do major damage to a stuck engine in a hurry!
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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Cruising in the Passing Lane
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Wow. If you quoted the mechanic accurately run don't walk to another shop.

Could he have said it charged right up, but the engine would not fire? That at least would mean he was not a complete fraud.


1955 1st GMC Suburban | 1954 GMC 250 trailer puller project | 1954 GMC 250 Hydra-Matic | 1954 Chevy 3100 . 1947 Chevy COE | and more...
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Extreme Gabster
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It could just have an ignition problem- when I first got my truck it had a pretty worn out 216, but it ran. I had to file the points and replace the spark plugs to get it to fire, but once I did that it ran fine.


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I had an engine that ran when I parked it and I had to put a new coil on it before it fired back up. Investigate your motor problems further and has been mentioned, get a second opinion.


Always get a 2nd opinion, especially if I am the source of the 1st opinion.
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'Bolter
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engine would turn over very fast if there was little compression would be about same as turning engine with spark plugs removed. So low or no compression would not prevent engine from turning over. get a second opinion. Was mechanic using "turning over" and "firing" interchangably?

Joined: Dec 2002
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Moderator - The Electrical Bay
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welcome to the 'bolt.... maybe one of the local bolters in OC can give a hand?

$3500 sounds kind of pricey too...


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Real Trucks Rattle
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I guess my assesmnet was kind of harsh. I was relying on the info like no battery charger. I know it can be difficult getting sound advice from some mechanics. Experiance is a plus for sure. Do what everyone says and take it somewhere else. Of course, it will cost alittle more to have it towed and all, but in the end you can get more for a running truck. I just count my lucky stars one of my bros has a shop with tools, welders, plasma cutters, lifts, supplies, good friends, etc....

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New Guy
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The battery did charge up, but the mechanic said when he tried to start the engine it wouldn't turn over. It would just "spin" due to lack of compression and made a knocking sound.
Anyway, I'm so glad I found this website and appreciate all this feedback from you guys. I feel alot better about this old truck already.

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I see you are in Orange County. I'm sure there are plenty of old restorers out there that would be willing to lend a hand. I would look up a local club or go to the next run close by. I bet you guys have them every weekend this time of year out there, and go meet some old wrenches. They will most likely help a gal out in her time of need. After all, alot of what we do is pure fun for us. I enjoy working on old cars and trucks and tinkering with them. Learn new things all the time and you are right. This site is great. Lot's of awesome info and people around to lend a hand. Don't give up on the old truck if you can afford it. I would bet money later on down the road you will be looking for one just like it if you sell it... wink

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Some new mechanics know very little about the old bolts and a 6 volt system, bad battery conection or wrong cables could make it not stsrt. as for the knock, get it ronning first before you say it has a knock


Mr.Giant

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I am with Rusty Rod sooner or later you will have a local Bolter come along, most of the guys if not all here are great and someone close is bound to offer up some services. If nothing else find a local bolter to sell it to, whatever happens don't let any of those yahoos from that shop get there hands on it.
Welcome to the Bolt and good luck keep hanging out here and you will get the knowledge that you need to make that truck what you want. Be diligent make small goals one part/system at a time and it will be done before you know. The feeling of I did it my self is like none other. Again welcome aboard.


The difference between men and boys is the price of their toys.
Grant from Roy, Washington
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Well, if it was running when you parked it...

And it might be for sale...

I know this guy in South Dakota, that likes a good challenge. :rolleyes:

Just kidding, you've already received some good advice. You might try and talk with some of the local antique car clubs in your area. A lot of these guys are anxious to offer assistance.

Good luck

John


~ J Lucas
2006 GMC Envoy 4.2 I6
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Give some of the local Vintage Chevrolet Club of America VCCA guys a try you may find that they are more than willing to help with the problem or at least give you a good evaluation of the condition of the engine. Here are a couple to try.

www.ocvcca.org Orange County Region
www.sfvregionvcca.com San Fernando Region
www.socalvintagechevy.com SoCal Region

Give them a try, lots of great people there.


"If it ain't Steel it ain't Real"
"Earth the insane aslyum for the rest of the Universe"
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Heys thanks for the info on the contacts. I'm having the truck towed back to my sister's place in Wildomar this a.m. The guy I bought the truck from - who's a mechanic - said he'll come check it out. When I told him what the first mechanic said, he basically told me what you guys are all saying - there's alot to check out - valves, pistons, etc., before you even start thinking about replacing an engine.

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Good luck with it. I'd help you myself, but I left Wildomar after living there for 26 years and commuting to Orange County over the Ortega Highway. Gerharts (sp) in Elsinore has some good mechanics.

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'Bolter
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I read all of the answers to your post and will offer mine. You bought the truck because you must have had a feeling for it. I don't really know the nature of the problems you are really encountering but do know that anything on these old trucks can be fixed. It takes money and perhaps help from knowledgeable people. It can be done. I think if you sell, whatever you get for it, you might one day regret it. These old trucks have heart and soul and you become very attached to them. They are quite easy to understand and fix. You will learn a lot just by being there and watching and reading up on them. My opinion is don't rush into making that decision. Have it looked at and get various thoughts from people who can actually see and hear the engine. Take your time and enjoy the journey into getting this truck on the road for yourself.


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NEVER EVER NEVER NEVER UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES PUT A NEW MOTOR IN SOMETHING YOUR JUST GOING TO TURN AROUND AND SELL!!

Don't do it.

Don't get it painted, either.

Why?

Because no matter what you do to it, it's going to be 'wrong' to every prospective buyer.. and you will very rarely get your investment back out.

A SOLID, rot free 1950 1/2 ton pickup with no motor or trans is worth every bit of $1500.. again, provided it's solid, and not full of bondo.

Now put a new motor in it, and you might have a truck worth $3500.. but it will appeal to about HALF the prospective buyers.. because the other half could care less about the stock engine or trans, and plan on cramming a 350, an automatic tranny, and a new rear end in it anyway.

Now if you just happen to have an old 216 laying around that's in good shape that you only have a couple hundred dollars into.. and you can put it in yourself on a Sunday afternoon.. then by all means, go for it.

But NEW motor and pay to have it installed? Naww.


an idea is only stupid if you think about it rationally.
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Hey Baldy - I'll check out Gearhart's if the guy I bought the truck from (who's a mechanic) can't help me.

Oldblu49 - yeah, you're right, I fell in love with that old primered 5 window truck. And this guy needed some fast cash for a gambling debt. Anyway, it's been sitting for awhile 'cause I just didn't know where to start on restoring it. Now that I've got all this advice from this website and some good contacts - it makes it a whole lot easier. I just wish some of you guys lived around here...

Fumblin46 - thanks for that valuable insight. I was thinking that might be the case about replacing the engine. I didn't realize it would be the same for a paint job. Appreciate your advice.


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