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Labor Day Putting down your wrenches or time for MORE wrenching? 
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| | | Forums66 Topics128,005 Posts1,055,261 Members48,418 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2005 Posts: 65 | I have been looking for a replacement frame for my '50 3100 but the prices are too high so far. Found a 3600 frame for an ok price, is it worth the effort to shorten it to a shortbox or should I just keep looking for a 1/2 ton frame? It's off a truck that was torn down for parts so I wouldn't be cutting up a restorable truck to do this. Will be swapping rear ends regardless as I am going with a T-5 trans. Thanks, Bob
1950 Chevrolet 1300
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 769 | I personally think the 3/4 ton frame would be a good one to use. It is a little thicker in gage than the 1/2 ton. The front of the frame is the same, but the rear of the frame has parallel frame rails instead of the straight tapers front to rear of the 1/2 ton. With that in mind; mounting the bed and rear bumper will be different, but not impossible. Shortening a frame that is tapered from front to rear could prove to be problematic depending on where the taper stops and the parallel section starts.
Remember to us complete joint penetration welds when joining the frame sections and use reinforcing in the form of boxing plates or cee shaped bent plate; at least as thick as the frame material.
If you are familiar with a torch and welding machine, I would not hesitate. Remember to level and square the frame and measure 10 times before you start cutting. Also add bracing where needed to maintain the shape of the frame after it has been cut.
Something else to be mindful of is that the 3/4 ton is setup for the rear springs to be on top of the axle whereas the 1/2 in under the axle. After market or custom rear springs and mounts will probably be needed. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 14 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Sep 2004 Posts: 14 | I have found three very nice cracks in the frame of my 54 so I am also looking for a new frame. I like the design of the frame for my 66 so I might try to dig around for one that is usable and would love some input for a better choice if there is one.
Mike | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | Look in the swapmeet section. There's several 1/2 ton AD's being parted out, maybe they have good frames, Scott | | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 33 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 33 | Hey Bob, I sent you a private message about a frame that I won't be needing anymore and it's relatively close to you. It's also from a '50 3100. Let me know if you're interested. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 7 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 7 | While we're on the subject of frames, I am working on the 46 that is on the top of my web page: http://jim72051.googlepages.com/jimmackaycarcollection How does the 46 frame compare with the 52? The 46 has some nasty modifications and I have an extra 52. How about the front suspension? Are the drums, spindles, etc. the same? Can anyone recommend a good chevy truck parts interchange manual? thanks, Jim | | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 65 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: May 2005 Posts: 65 | Quick update, thanks to Colin's help I found a free 1/2 ton (51?) frame and will be picking it up this weekend. Also thanks to the other stovebolter's who offered to help. Bob
1950 Chevrolet 1300
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