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#237170 07/13/2007 4:34 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 65
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 65
I have been looking for a replacement frame for my '50 3100 but the prices are too high so far. Found a 3600 frame for an ok price, is it worth the effort to shorten it to a shortbox or should I just keep looking for a 1/2 ton frame? It's off a truck that was torn down for parts so I wouldn't be cutting up a restorable truck to do this. Will be swapping rear ends regardless as I am going with a T-5 trans.
Thanks,
Bob


1950 Chevrolet 1300
#237171 07/13/2007 4:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 769
L
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
L Offline
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 769
I personally think the 3/4 ton frame would be a good one to use. It is a little thicker in gage than the 1/2 ton. The front of the frame is the same, but the rear of the frame has parallel frame rails instead of the straight tapers front to rear of the 1/2 ton. With that in mind; mounting the bed and rear bumper will be different, but not impossible. Shortening a frame that is tapered from front to rear could prove to be problematic depending on where the taper stops and the parallel section starts.

Remember to us complete joint penetration welds when joining the frame sections and use reinforcing in the form of boxing plates or cee shaped bent plate; at least as thick as the frame material.

If you are familiar with a torch and welding machine, I would not hesitate. Remember to level and square the frame and measure 10 times before you start cutting. Also add bracing where needed to maintain the shape of the frame after it has been cut.

Something else to be mindful of is that the 3/4 ton is setup for the rear springs to be on top of the axle whereas the 1/2 in under the axle. After market or custom rear springs and mounts will probably be needed.

#237172 07/13/2007 10:05 PM
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 14
M
Junior Member
Junior Member
M Offline
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 14
I have found three very nice cracks in the frame of my 54 so I am also looking for a new frame. I like the design of the frame for my 66 so I might try to dig around for one that is usable and would love some input for a better choice if there is one.

Mike

#237173 07/14/2007 2:45 AM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
Look in the swapmeet section. There's several 1/2 ton AD's being parted out, maybe they have good frames,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
#237174 07/17/2007 4:34 AM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 33
C
Apprentice
Apprentice
C Offline
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 33
Hey Bob, I sent you a private message about a frame that I won't be needing anymore and it's relatively close to you. It's also from a '50 3100. Let me know if you're interested.

#237175 07/18/2007 4:11 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 7
J
New Guy
New Guy
J Offline
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 7
While we're on the subject of frames, I am working on the 46 that is on the top of my web page:

http://jim72051.googlepages.com/jimmackaycarcollection

How does the 46 frame compare with the 52? The 46 has some nasty modifications and I have an extra 52. How about the front suspension? Are the drums, spindles, etc. the same?

Can anyone recommend a good chevy truck parts interchange manual?

thanks, Jim

#237176 07/18/2007 4:36 PM
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 65
B
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
B Offline
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 65
Quick update, thanks to Colin's help I found a free 1/2 ton (51?) frame and will be picking it up this weekend. Also thanks to the other stovebolter's who offered to help.
Bob


1950 Chevrolet 1300

Moderated by  Gdads51 

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