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| | | Forums66 Topics128,205 Posts1,057,429 Members48,471 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 205 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 205 | I searched the forum couldn't find anything explaining who,what and where I can buy it.
This is for my project truck. I would like to get rid of road and engine noise.
Thanks
Tom
By the way donate to the bolt. I did!!
48 Chevy 3100 Shortbox 5 window "The Big Dog"
| | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 20 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 20 | for what its worth, i was in the local hardware store one day while the floor was apart in my truck. i got a roll of insulation for water heaters. four bucks and i had enough to do my pick up and a buddys camaro. it was basically foil on top and bottom with plastic "bubbles" in between. the label said it would withstand ambient temps of -75 to 325 degrees. it was about one half an inch thick and with the foil you could mold it to any shape you want. big difference as far as the noise was concerned and a whole lot warmer in the winter... | | | | | Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2001 Posts: 4,095 | look for peel and stick at a local hardware store and lowes or home depot. also do a search here under peel and stick, it has been covered many times. you can find sound deadener in www.brotherstrucks.com and some of the other parts places. i used the water heater insulation with the cotton batting i got at homedepot but they don't carry it at my store at this time. Ron
Ron, The Computer Greek I love therefore I am.1954 3100 Chevy truckIn the Gallery 2017 Buick Encore See more pix1960 MGA Roadster Sold 7/18/2017
| | | | | Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 531 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2005 Posts: 531 | There's been discussion on the "Interiors" board... go there and search for 'insulation'... here's one thread: http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=20;t=000274#000000 (sorry I forget how to shorten it up)
Basically Tom get the peel and stick as Ron suggests... it's a roofing patch product that comes in a roll. Lay that down all over your floor. I then got jute padding from a carpet place (forget the stuff the catalogs sell you).. use a 3M adhesive and put that over the sound deadener.
Third, cut strips of the deadener and attach it to the inner panels of your doors. You don't need to cover the whole door to make it effective. | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | I used carpet pad and glued it down. foam and a fibre glass type backing worked great but what do I do with the doors? Not a heck of a lot of room to install thru that darn small whole/ | | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 1,756 | Larry, you might have solved my problem befor I got it typed/ | | | | | Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 33 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 33 | You might want to try something like Lizard Skin. It's a spray in ceramic material. It isn't cheap but you can put it everywhere, in doors, on the floor, on the underside of the cab, above the headliner, behind fenders, on the firewall, ect. My friend is really impressed with the stuff. He gets his from summit racing.
1953 3600 w/ full pressure 235 "Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati" --If all else fails, play dead.
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jun 2005 Posts: 887 | You can get the roofing/duct 'peel and stick' at a home depot for fairly cheap and that'll go inside the doors for sound deadening and insulation. The peel and stick stuff is the same as dynamat but cheaper to buy in rolls from the hardware store.
In the rest of the cab, including the roof, I put down peel and stick first and then glued jute or the aluminum bubble stuff on top of the peel and stick with 3M spray adhesive. It is amazing how quiet and solid it makes it, and makes a huge difference keeping the heat/cold in/out.
'51 Chevy 1/2 ton w/'62 261, HEI, offy, fentons, dual carter/webbers, t-5 & 12 bolt posi
| | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 New Guy | | New Guy Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 232 | I'll 4th the Peel and Seal, great stuff and cheap too. I paid about $25 per roll. each roll was 33'x 12". I ended up using 3 rolls, but that allowed pretty much a double layer on the cab floor and a single layer everywhere else. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 364 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 364 | I would be leary of anything with fiberglass batting, any bit of moisture (including condensation) will be trapped in there with no way out and cause more trouble. Bubble stuff or peel & stick would be o.k.
Keith If it were easy they'd have grade schoolers doing it! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,953 | Whatever you do, do not use the spray foam insulation that is made for around windows and electrical outlet boxes. Been told it absorbs and holds water. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 223 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2004 Posts: 223 | Does anyone have any concerns about the peel and seal roofing products and off gasing? I certainly don't mean to be a wieny, (and believe me I have put my lungs through h*ll and back over the years) but someone mentioned toxicity regarding gases in thread awhile back. I looked at a roll at home depot and it said, 'not for use in interior locations' and 'known to cause cancer by California' Any real concerns here? | | | | | Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: May 2006 Posts: 8,351 | I used Dyna Mat on the floor and back cab wall. Glued it on with 3-M contact adheasive on the cab, the floor has a coat of Dupli-Color bedliner under it. It works well for me.
Bill Burmeister | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,243 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 5,243 | I used heater duct insulation, its a very sticky backed foam about a 1/4" thick. I bought 3 rolls from Lowes. No smell at all and worked good for me. I stuck it everywhere I could. Joe | | | | | Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 85 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2004 Posts: 85 | I used the peal & seal, then put the water heater wrap from Lowes over that and you can't hear a thing. Peal & Seal in the doors to keep them from rattling. Great Stuff. Good Luck | | | | | Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 205 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2006 Posts: 205 | I guess I got a lot of great Ideas. Now I have to get the truck ready for it.
Thanks everybody
Tom
48 Chevy 3100 Shortbox 5 window "The Big Dog"
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 15 Junior Member | | Junior Member Joined: Oct 2004 Posts: 15 | Not sure about the warning for not using the stick on insulation indoors, but don't worry about the "cancer in california" bit, take a look at a new kitchen faucet, or almost any plumbing valve for instance, they have that same warning. I figure since I don't live in California I don't need to worry about it  | | | | | Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 Member | | Member Joined: Mar 2002 Posts: 990 | Anyone have trouble with Peel N' Seal or Tite Bond sticking to the interior of the door skins? I tried to put it on my 72 truck door and they all peeled off in the extreme texas heat and ended up a wadded up mess on the bottom of my truck. The doors look like they've some rather rough surfaced goo sprayed on them. Perhaps some kind of undercoating?? | | | | | Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 24 Wrench Fetcher | | Wrench Fetcher Joined: Jul 2006 Posts: 24 | I have to agree with LongBox here. Dynamat is the way to go! http://www.dynamat.com/index.html They have several different types of heat/sound insulation, all geared towards automotive, to include interior and exterior use. Most all of it is self-adhesive (peel & stick), as well. Just one little drawback; the stuff's not cheap. To do your cab's door panels (best to remove the window regulators and apply it directly to the inside of the doorskin), firewall, floor, roof, hood and back panel, you're probably looking at $500 or more. But it works and works better than anything else I've seen or tried. Did a VW Squareback a few years ago, and used all Dynamat products to insulate it. Inside, with the widows up, you couldn't hear that thing run at any speed. Had to glance at the tach or speedo to know it was moving! Mind you, the car's owner invested close to forty thousand in that thing besides, so the extra grand or so in insulation and whatnot was more than called for.
If a 'truck' is only used to haul butts to the mall, then it's not a truck - it's a car with a roadster trunk.
Old, rusty and ugly - might be me or my fleet. You decide!
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