The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Rusted (Stove)bolts

Ok, probably been asked a few times, but at least it'll be back up top. What do you all recommend for rusted bolt removal besides a drill and cutoff wheels? I've been soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil, and a guy told me to get one of the little auto parts stores blow torch things. He said as long as paint isn't an issue, rust will burn before metal. Is this the best way to get the hard ones?

I just read the clutch head topic, so that helps. Any others with good solvants for tough bolts appreciated.

I like PB Blaster the best

pb blaster goes on everything....including my burgers. it might take a few applications and several hours of soaking sometimes but that stuff is great. i was quite elated to find it in gallon jugs now.

PB blaster is indeed great stuff. For those bolts that even that doesn't do it, I use a carbide "burr" in my die grinder. I got it from Eastwood. It cuts quickly with less colateral damage than cutoff wheels.

marvel mystery oil and heat.

http://www.stovebolt.com/bboard/cgi-bin//ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=9;t=000304#000000

I prefer BG's Enforce penetrant. It's commercial grade stuff so you'll have to buy it from a shop that uses it. If paint damage isn't an issue, I heat the area around the fastener to expand it then put some torque to it to remove it. If you heat the bolt, technically you are expanding it even tighter.
Scott

What we use and are very pleased is for the really tough ones try GM General Purpose Penetrant and Heat Valve Lubricant Part 1#1052627 I also have found that the MOPAR Rust Penetrant 04318039AB works equally as well and is a little cheaper. I buy these by the case from the local dealer. I also use heat quite offten. For just the ones that are gummy, lightly rusted I use Sea-Foam Deep Creep. Experiment and see what work best for you.
J

Another one that I have use and like is
Aero Kroil, I was very pleased with this one. The only reason I don't still use it is it is not avalable localy anymore. I have new one that I have not tried yet, Mouse Milk it comes in a non arosol bottle. Yes I laughed at the name, the guy said you will be impressed, I don't know yet. My personal oppinion for the tough ones the GM or Mopar is the best. I personally feel PB Blaster and WD 40 are a waste of money if you plan to use them for serious penitrating. I am sure they are good for something. Just my thought one past experiances.
J

Thanks everybody. This will be helpful reading for all us new guys coming though these threads. I have been a 60's camaro rebuilder now for many years, but they don't seem to be quite old enough to have such difficult bolt removal that some of these old trucks do.

Tell a kid NOT to take the bolt off, and walk away. It'll be off in ten minutes.

You asked about a "blow torch thing". I use my cutting torch to heat the bolts up red hot. Then let them cool a bit. Smack the head of the bolt with a hammer, or hammer and punch. They usually come loose. I turn them out a bit, then turn them in, then out, then in, etc. until it comes out. I will use some sort of penetrant to help. That will help break it loose to. If you just put a impact on it and try to back it out without working it back in, many times you will break the bolt off. Patience pays off when you get the bolt out without destroying the hole.

If the bolt extends through the hole and it can be reached from behind, sometimes I cut off the end of the bolt with a thin cutting wheel. That way the whole lenght of the bolt doesn't have be forced through the hole threads.

I have a couple of sets of screw extractors where you drill a hole first and then set the extractor in the hole and try to turn it out. Most of the time I have failures with them. Your just lucky when they work. The one that works the best is a set that comes with its own set of reverse bits. Sometimes a screw or bolt will come out while drilling the hole with the reverse bit.