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#206867 04/28/2006 4:42 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 408
W
Shop Shark
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W Offline
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 408
I cant find the old post on this,I have my new oak boards and I want to have a nice gloss finish
to them, someone suggested to buy a automotive
polyurathane,I have been to Napa,carquest,and autozone. They have never heard of this product
Did I get sent on a snipe hunt to buy a sky hook
or does this really exsist. All Ideas welcome

#206868 04/28/2006 5:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 21
T
Junior Member
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Posts: 21
It exists--I've seen it. But I don't know that its appropriate with wood. smile


Taco
#206869 04/28/2006 6:06 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 232
S
New Guy
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 232
Ive heard this also. I planned to use automotive clear coat on my wood when the truck is ready for it.

#206870 04/28/2006 6:45 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
Can't say that I've heard of it except as it would apply to automotive paints. Might be available in clear and perhaps thats what the guy meant.

I used the recommended marine spar poly varnish on my pine floor and it's not holding up well at all. Three coats and still doesn't look right.


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Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

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#206871 04/28/2006 6:57 PM
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 531
L
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Posts: 531
Check over in the "Making a Stovebolt Bed" Forum... lots of discussion going on about finishes there. Bed supplier Mar-K has also been experimenting with different finishes.


Larry Bear

55.5 Chevy 3100 Panel
In the Stovebolt Gallery


#206872 04/28/2006 8:09 PM
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,756
G
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Mar-K has pictures of my bed on their web site and I just used regular poly with a lot of wet sanding between. Looks good after 2 years but am going to wet sand and give it another coat this year

#206873 04/28/2006 11:55 PM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,820
6
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Marine Spar Varnish - about 10 coats brushed on with light sanding between coats will give you a long lasting finish. My finish is on for ten years and it looks new.

Here is the key - you MUST do both sides and the edges of all of the boards. In other words, encase them or seal them totally!

That will do the trick. Look at my bed and side boards on the link below! It's perfect and I did it in 1997. I was told to do it this way by a paint manufacturing company tech.

Joe smile


"Truckin' Around .......... Since 1937!"
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#206874 04/29/2006 12:50 AM
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 69
T
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: May 2000
Posts: 69
I'm in the middle of this job. Oak bedboards. I'm using Sikkens Cetol Marine Light...four coats...followed by 3 coats of Sikkens Marine Gloss. Sold in marine supply stores. Goes on very smooth and even, with a nice light tone and good UV protection. What I really like is the mfg recommends no sanding between coats. I did another set of oak bedboards years ago with a highly rated marine spar varnish, sanding between coats, etc and this Sikkens stuff looks better. COmpletely agree with Joe that all surfaces must be coated.

#206875 04/29/2006 2:05 AM
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 408
W
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Thanks for the info, Marine seems to be the way
to go,scince I live on the lake I will visit the
marinas.

#206876 04/29/2006 3:30 AM
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 14,522
I used the marine spar varnish and mine looked good after 8 years with 4 good coats on all sides. On the Mar-K Bed forum he suggest using a primer before the spar urethane. I think the post was around Jan 20th as I ask the same question as you when I wanted to freshen up mine. On that post Mar-K list the experiments that have been done, how long they have been in process and so forth. It is a good read. Just more info!!


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