The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline brake hose replacement

Hope to change the flexible brake lines on my 49. Never done this before and am certain it is not rocket science. I read the shop manual and know to undo the hose at the hard lines first and then at the cylinder. Can I expect to have brake fluid come rushing out once I have undone the hose and I guess I will needs to bleed the system at the finish. any tips would be appreciated.

Yep, you're gonna loose your fluid and need to bleed the system. May want to consider replacing all of your lines, hard and flexible. They are cheap insurance and aren't hard to do.
Scott

olblu49,

I have found the small hex on the tube fitting almost always is rusted quite tight. Even with a flare nut wrench, you end up rounding the fitting. I use a nice sharp pair of vise grips, cinch them down tight so they won't slip and bust the fitting loose. It can then be removed with a flare nut (tubing) wrench or conventional open end wrench.

Nothing should come gushing out, in fact, little will actually drip out. Bleeding will be in order..the brakes, not the knuckles.


Stuart

Thanks folks. Scott i do intend to replace the hard lines next.
Stuart the small hex nut is it on the hose at the cylinder end or hard end? Or do you mean the one on the hard line?

olblu,

I meant the nut on the hard line..the flare nut.


Stuart

A quality flare nut wrench usually won't round the nut. With vise grips, you chance squishing the nut with the tubing.

As for a tip, leave the cap on the master cylinder tightly in place. Like my kids playing with straws in their sodas at the restaurants, it will help slow the escape of brake fluid.

I am of the opinion that you should flush out all of the old brake fluid and replace it every time you crack a line.

Thanks folks. Appreciate all of the help.
Bill

Removal tools needed: WD-40, screw driver, flare nut wrench, vise grip, patience and a beer.

A couple of days before you start, crawl under the truck and spray each brake line fitting with WD-40. that three or four times in the next couple of days. Get a "good" flare wrench (not some Kmart special) and when you go to break the lines loose, (righty tighty, lefty loosey) after they crack loose work the nut back and forth until the nut breaks loose from the line. Try to not bend or twist the steel lines when you remove them so you can remake the new ones close to original.

Take your old brake flexible brake lines with you if you are buying at a local parts store. Many times (if you have a parts guy that is over 30 who knows how to cross reference from a book) you can match up the ends and lengths. Otherwise buy from the guys who specialize in these trucks.

If you're going to replace the hard lines anyway, just do them all at once. Much easier.

Hey, let's talk a little more about replacing all those brake lines.
You can get complete sets from the various online folks for @ $150-170. (stainless, of course). But what if you have access to a bending tool and double flair kit? (available at the Auto Zone for FREE as a loaner). You can buy SS tubing online for about a buck and half a foot. But now having all the shake and bakes, is it a do-able venture for someone who has never been there and do you really save?
Is there a do-it-yourself guide out there?

Stainless is a PITA to double flare. To do it right, you really need a hydraulic flaring tool (megabucks).

Can you go into a little more detail? What is "PITA"? And what is it about SS that requires hydraulic muscle?

Rattletrap 52,

I have used a double flaring tool on brake line. The material I used was referred to as "soft line"..it bent quite easily. Flaring it properly took a bit of concentration.

I was curious about the ability of stainless to double flare, and how difficult it is to do. Would it be a pain in the a@#& (PITA).


I will watch for answers from the professionals.


Stuart

Stainless is an extremely hard material, requiring far more force than the "soft" steel lines available at parts stores.

This topic came up on a Corvette board a few days ago, everyone there (including some professionals) agreed that it requires a large amount of force to flare them properly.

That said, the "soft" steel lines are quite durable. Just give them a good clear coat after getting them to the correct shape and don't worry about it. If you really want stainless, they're available from the vendors.

PITA = pain in the ...

Besides having the satisfaction of doing it yourself, how much do you think could really be saved over buying preformed lines from one of the parts houses?

My 49 never had stainless and I am going to change the original lines soon. I will go with the regular steel lines. If my originals can last 56 years maybe the new ones (not SS) might last as long as I do.

Most of the brake tubing vendors sell stainless tubing that is annealed, so it is no harder to work with than regular steel. Bends and flares easily.

Here are FAQs and answers about SS brake lines. http://www.inlinetube.com/cartalk.htm

Jim Carter sells brake line sets (SS=$170 and regular=$145), if he has them in stock, there is supposedly a 15-20% discount through 15 December (20% if you order on-line).

unless you are building a "show rod" I would stick with steel.

never thought about clear coating them. that would look good. or even painting them a metallic gray and then clear coating them. Instead of trying to look like stainless (might look cheap), you are doing something different

then again if you have a buffing wheel on your grinder & some jewelers roughe (EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE THIS) buffing them before clear coating would look awesome!!

wheels & polish are avaliable at a truck-stop near you!!