The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Water shut-off valve

Ok, can't take the heat anymore...I have stock recirculating heater in my 50 3100 and am looking for a shut-off valve to keep water from radiator going to heater core. Is there an aftermarket item that I can get at any FLAPS that will do te job? I'm assuming that is what a Ranco (?) valve does, or is there an item that some of the specialty houses (chevy duty, carter) carry that I'm missin?

Sweatin in Southern IL,
Chuck

blue 50 You can go to any hardware store and get a ball cock valve and screw it into the water pump outlet and just shut it off under the hood during the summer.

Also you can get an inline heater valve at a parts store & hook a cable to it. Be shure to put any valve on the inlet side.

Bless ya'll, been wondering why I had heat in the summer..I think I'll just get one that goes in the heater hose with a cable operation..Thanks, Steve

Got one of those a few months ago... Have a look:

Heater

Auto Zone, 5 or 6 bucks. Works great

I wish that was the reason why my cab stays so hot,, no heater in mine but those fentons will put out a lot of extra heat............Fred

Fred, the reason you cab is so hot is that you live in Texas, where it's freaking boiling!!

that is true too........Fred

Not as convenient but last summer before the drive to the left coast I simply looped the hose from the water pump to the manifold nipple bypassing the heater altogether. Looped the other hose between the two heater nipples to keep anything out.

I've used needle-nosed Vise Grips in a pinch,
Scott

[groans]

I would go with the ball valve from the hardware store these are 1/4 turn valves and most are solid brass and are pretty nice looking when you pop the hood.

I've been wanting to do the ball valve application for years now. It's still on the to do list. Would only one valve be required? I had been thinking of installing one in each hose line.

Thanks guys, I am leaning towards the brass ball valve because of looks. any guess what size is needed?

Gord, nice pictures, got any more?! guess you might be using your heater more than me livin in the great white north

Chuck

I could take a picture of the installed valve if you want but it wont be too exciting; just an inline valve with the push-pull cable attached...

I wonder about the ball valve idea you guys are discussing. You would have to get out of the truck (probably in pouring rain) and open the hood when you want heat? Then it would get too hot and out you goo again. I know you could open the window to regulate the heat, but then you would have the rain blowing in...

You would only open the ball valve in the fall and close it in the spring. You wouldn't have to open and close it daily.

Barry: That sounds like planning ahead!

wanted to give you guys an update... picked up an inline valve from Napa, it's a Balkamp #660-1413 for $23. It's a screw-down type and not cable operated. Last night drove 20 miles roundtrip to a local cruise night in Herrin, IL and cab was much cooler, well as cool as it can get with all the holes/openings I still have to cover at 90+ degrees. Next project will be sound deading/heat blocking...

I just got one from Carquest. Much cooler cab now. What a difference on long rides.

Bruce K you only need one ball valve in your heater hoses. It needs to be in the outlet side of the water pump.

Why does it need to be on the outlet side? Just curious. Always want to learn sumpin new.

The factory used a non-cable operated valve for recirculating heaters. Pop the hood and turn the handle if you want heat. One of the MANY reasons I like fresh-air heaters better, especially the '54 version that can do fresh air or recirculating.

The hose going to the water pump is the return hose from the heater. The inlet to the heater comes from below the therm. or on the intake on a V8. You want the valve on the inlet to the heater so you won,t have excessive pressure on the heater core.

Hey Wrench, I'm glad you got in on this, because I was going to buy one, and thought it went into the hose from the water pump..Thanks much, Steve

Well..I always like to do things twice just for practice!! Look's like I will be switchin' hoses.
Wrench, you mentioned a v8, would the inlet on my 235 still come from the thermostat to heater and then return from heater to water pump??