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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 110
4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 110
posted in the "bed" section not much info, i have a "loadking" wooden bed on my loadmaster need advice on wood replacement from anyone who has done theres, this will be for a "working big bolt" not a show car.

back 1/2 of bed wood is rotten, was going to cut ut across and replace with 2x4x12 sections and make a "doubler" on the cross beams to bolt it too, then use tons of wood screws with some additional support beams across under the boards.

any ideas guys???? was thinking pressure treated wood for this will be painted red once replaced...


nothin like ol' Chevy iron..keep it goin

1948 Chevy Loadmaster Flatbed
Joined: Jul 2005
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F
Cruising in the Passing Lane
Cruising in the Passing Lane
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depends on what your going to haul in it? most of the typical bed boards are tongue and groove, and just screwed to the cross rails with a screw of that type that is self threading. Also, usually the boards are 1 inche...or 3/4...at least in grain beds....


What it will say on my Tombstone: "Boy, that guy sure owed alotta people Money"
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4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Posts: 110
hauling??? maily kids on hay rides thats it.. poss alittle top soil NOTHING HEAVY


nothin like ol' Chevy iron..keep it goin

1948 Chevy Loadmaster Flatbed
Joined: Jun 2005
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G
Shop Shark
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Maybe tear it all off and use5/4 treated deck boards. For what you describe, treated plywood would work.

Joined: Jun 2007
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4
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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ok i was thinking 3/4 treated ply would go on alot faster.... i might go that route....


nothin like ol' Chevy iron..keep it goin

1948 Chevy Loadmaster Flatbed
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 707
H
Shop Shark
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Use trailer decking: 2 x 6 t&g fir, and self-tapping screws like fatweed says. Any lumber yard will know what you're asking for, and any trailer repair/supply house has the screws. Get the Torx-headed ones. They work best. Do the whole deck: it'll look better.


1951 3800

Be the change you want to see.
-hotshoe
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4
Wrench Fetcher
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HOTSHOE... id love to do the whole deck, BUT it looks like it would be a huge pain in the butt... would have to take the metal bed apart, then replace wood the reassemble it, for a work truck???? the back 6ft of the bed is only section thats rotten cross wooden beams are ok, as i said i only plan on hauling mowers, weedeaters kids on hay rides and maybe alitle top soil thats about it thoughts???


nothin like ol' Chevy iron..keep it goin

1948 Chevy Loadmaster Flatbed
Joined: Apr 2005
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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Just get a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood. It will last quite a while.

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4
Wrench Fetcher
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builder can you give me a call her eat my desk ref this bed idea? 512-854-3451 or shoot me your number ill call you thanks have afew more questions for you


nothin like ol' Chevy iron..keep it goin

1948 Chevy Loadmaster Flatbed
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C
Shop Shark
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use a compost wood product
http://www.trex.com/
http://www.timbertech.com/default.aspx

you'll love it ten years from now


Jim & Caroline
The highway is for gamblers, better use your good sense."
Gooday-that's my 1¢ answer due to the lousy economy ~ cause I ain't got - no . mo . doe

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B
'Bolter
'Bolter
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I just looked. That's a nice looking truck you have there. I think you should just try to put the boards back so it looks close to original. You'll be a lot happier with it too.

Joined: Dec 2003
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Shop Shark
Shop Shark
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Fatweed said "depends on what your going to haul in it? most of the typical bed boards are tongue and groove, and just screwed to the cross rails with a screw of that type that is self threading. Also, usually the boards are 1 inche...or 3/4...at least in grain beds...."

Sorry to disagree but most, as in nearly all, grainbodies built in the last 30 years have used 2" nominal lumber in a 6" nominal width. It is most always yellow pine and is shiplap, not T&G. One manufacturer (Omaha Std) did use laminated larch in a 1" dimension but hasn't been used in a longtime. Trailer flooring is generally 1-1/8" and is some form of imported mahogany subspecies. There are several. A lot of this is ualso used in CA platform bodies but they don't make grain bodies in CA or too many of them anywhere these days. Whatever is used it obviously needs to be the same thickness as the front half of the floor. And why use 2x4 when 2x6 or 2x8 would make it that much quicler to replace?


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
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Dave
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R
New Guy
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I used T&G 2"X 6" treated on 1 truck.
On the other I used none treated wood.
Used the counter sunk screws, All the wood is tung & Groove.
You can put drain oil on it to keep it from rotting.
There is a new plastic board 2X6 T&G on the market but it cost's a lot.
A 20' is just a litle over $100.00 It's called Rumber, It's 1 1/2" X 7" made from recycled tires & plastic & has a 20 year warranty.
comes in 6' 7' 16' 20' 24'
It would be good for horse traylers etc.
Should last a long time!! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

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R
New Guy
New Guy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 75
I used T&G 2"X 6" treated on 1 truck.
On the other I used none treated wood.
Used the counter sunk screws, All the wood is tung & Groove.
You can put drain oil on it to keep it from rotting.
There is a new plastic board 2X6 T&G on the market but it cost's a lot.
A 20' is just a litle over $100.00 It's called Rumber, It's 1 1/2" X 7" made from recycled tires & plastic & has a 20 year warranty.
comes in 6' 7' 16' 20' 24'
It would be good for horse traylers etc.
Should last a long time!! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 99
C
Wrench Fetcher
Wrench Fetcher
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 99
I would steer away from most plywoods especially treated. The wear & tear as wel as weathering will make them delaminate. This is especially true of deck plywood. It is made from fast growing wide grained woods which will splinter and cause no end of swearing. For the record my '36 box was made from 6/4x6" T&G fir planks.


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