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1958 Chevy Apache
Stella
"Start to finish w/upgrades"

Turned 65 this year with a hankerin' to find a 1958 Apache project to take from start to finish. It's been 45+ years since I have been into car projects. The last project I didn’t get to finish as career stuff got in the way. Then marriage, kids and then life started winding down.

First pix of the new project is when my cousin and I trailered it home from New Mexico to Illinois.

A little more of the story:

My last car projected was a 1971 Plymouth Barracuda in 1980. I had just completed a 383, built from direct connection parts and a fortune in machine work paid for at the $3-5 per hour I earned at that time. I had just started it on open headers for its first run when I took a job a thousand miles away. I had an engine and direct connection torque flight and a body that needed a ton of work.

I ended up crating the engine and tranny, sold the body for parts and moved. A year later i sold the engine and tranny. Goodbye dream!

Back in those days, we painted cars in our garages with lacquer. We shared hoists, lifts and stands among a small group of guys.

As I looked at this Apache, it will get a complete tear down to the frame. It will need cab corners, lower doors, lower fenders and whatever other old bodywork I find under the two color changes it has had.

I plan to do away with the under the driver master brake cylinder and add power steering. The wife will probably make me add A/C. All the glass is cracked or otherwise shot. The front end needs work.

This truck was partially dismantled when the owner passed. I picked it up from another owner who decided to pass on all the work needed. It came with a late 70’s era 350 and the original Muncie 3 speed and a converted floor shifter.

Engine and tranny came home in the bed of the Apache. I know the engine has already been rebuilt once and it was out because of blowing smoke. My plan at this point is to drop a crate small block /auto tranny combo in but who knows. I don't need an engine tranny right now.

I started dismantling the bed as the front end will be easy cuz it's all been off already. I’m halfway thru the 80 plus bed wood screws. Some unscrew, those that don't get the head drilled off.

I have so much going in my head right now that I don't want to write about. Gotta get her apart to know what's next.

I plan to get it down to the cab on the frame and then hope to start steel work while the doors are still hanging. Once the welding and body work on the cab is done, I will remove the doors and pull the cab so I can get at the cab bottom and then address frame clean up.

After that, I hope to fix doors and fenders while I rebuild the front end and decide to do with the rear end.

I think I’m looking at two years to get paint on it. With all the changes in paint tech, I gotta figure out what i can spray new steel patches and other bodywork with to keep it from rusting. It needs to be rattle cans for this as the temporary spray booth construction is down the road.

At least everything is stored in doors.

I attached another pic taken after I unloaded her into my shop area. Plenty of barns to store body parts inside.

This post is long and I’m tired of fat fingering my phone.

Nice. Looks like a solid start. John

Nice start to your project. She looks really good. I was in the same situation with life getting in the way. Now that I’m retired, it didn’t change much. Still don’t have enough time to work on my project. Life is still getting in the way!

And of course please post more pictures. We ‘Bolters love pictures. Again, welcome to the forums!

Wow Kevin! That's a lot of typing (with fat fingers - it's hard on a phone). You have given us a good lowdown on the Apache. Send updates (and pix*) as you are able.

Frame off is a big job. Many have done it and I'm sure they'll want to following your progress.

Well wishes on all that.

Thanks.

Kevin, Welcome to the Stovebolt. phosphoric acid also known as Ospho and other brand names will protect your bare metal from rusting.

Welcome to the Bolt! Sounds like you have a plan. Hope it all works out. Keep us posted on your progress.

Welcome KevinS (from another confirmed "fat finger" typist - LOL)!

Your definitely have your plan laid out and I look forward to seeing future posts in the various Shop forums.

Will add a note that your location has you in the Great Lakes Bolters area and as others mentioned above there a quite a few fellow Bolters in your neck of the woods.

You might want to go introduce yourself there too and check out about upcoming events in your region that you might like to participate in, like the AD Nationals at Franklin, IN.

Once again, Welcome!

Dan

Hi Kevin and welcome to the Stovebolt. Consider yourself at home. We are here to help you on your journey.
In my personal experience I've found that even just 15 minutes EVERY day will accomplish much. After restoring several vehicles I've found that I like taking it apart one piece at a time....and working on that one piece until it is ready to "store" (except for final paint), then move to the next one.
It helps to keep me motivated and once all pieces are ready, its suoooo much fun when putting it back together with the parts ready to go!

....I found it was best to avoid tearing one down in a couple days and looking at a pile of stuff that makes you want to look the other way! But, as we say here, it's your truck, do it your way. We are here to help.

....always had a soft spot for the twin headlights.

Thanks Wayne!



Will ask more in the body/paint board.

Thanks Ac! The lower cab needs the usual new metal and i hate laying on my back underneath. I plan to remove the bed and the front body so i can focus on the lower cab with doors in to try and avoid clearance issues. As i get each new patch in, i plan to fill and get the area to a prime finish, then move to the next area. With the front body off, working on the front end/suspension will be easier.

I’m journaling and photographing each step i take and i have plenty of barns to hang body parts in. All rubber mounts are shot, nothing in the doors works, except the hinges. I already decided to go to the frame and fix one piece at a time. Probably 3 years but God only knows. I added another pic.

I really like your caption for this one!

Welcome 👍 🇺🇸 😁 Nice looking old Chevy 👍

Welcome KevinS. you are in for a good ride. BTW my son is also a Kevin S.

Gonna be 100 plus here all week according to weather rumors. Too hot for me to crawl under the bed and remove more wood bolts. I did look at the 350 that came with my girl and now wonder if this motor was ever in the truck. The engine compartment shows front mount engine mounts, starboard side has a good bend in it. The 350 motor has no upper mount brackets and the bolt holes dont look like they have had anything in them. There is orange paint on the mouts that matches the repaint on the 350 block.

The original muncie 3 speed was bolted to this 350 when i brought it home. One bolt sheared in the top of the 350 block and two bolts out of four missing on the tranny tail piece housing.

Still have not decided if i want to install a sbc and an automatic or go backwards and put a 6 back in. The automatic tranny on a sbc would require frame mods at the crossmember, to go backwards would require me to find all the 3 on a tree hardware as this truck was converted over to a rather sloppy looking floor shifter at some point. I would also likely try to find an overdrive manual 3 speed if i went this path. Whichver path i choose, most the linkage is not present.

I would welcome any input.

They look like factory 8 cly. front motor frame mounts. So a 283 would be correct. For the 6 cly. ,you need these mounts. I`d keep the flywheel(resurfaced) replace clutch etc. Also a rebuilt 283. With a borg warner OD with 3 speed floor shift.

Thanks Gp. I see online info about a BW T85N 3 speed and a Muncie 319 with a BW R10K overdrive add on. I see no sources for either. I have the original non overdrive 3 speed. Overdrive would be essential to keep a 3 speed. The existing tranny case stamp is not fully legible. Where does one source a strong 3 speed with overdrive?

Kevin,

Did you see / read Possum's 1958 Apache 3800 build in the Project Journals?

Interesting to have to "hot" '58s at the same time to look at.

I saw one for sale ...cannot remember. They are out there. I had one in my 58 Apache. Replaced it with a M-22RC. 3rd gear in that is golden.

Kevin: Only thing not legible on that Saginaw 3 speed case is the day of the month in the casting date. The leading L would be December and the trailing 7 would be 1957. The two characters in the middle are the day of the month.

Thanks Bill. I guess my guess that the tranny was original is credible.

Kevin,

You can place an ad in the Truck Parts Wanted forum in case you can't locate on via sales ads on the web.

I have been known for spotting such items in the past. Will gladly snoop a bit to see what I might discover and let you know.

Dan

100 degrees here today. I had to start on my daily driver front brakes. 265k miles on the original brakes. While i was in the garage, i crawled under my girl and took a few pics of the rearend. She’s gonna need a pinion seal and gasket for sure. It looks like the stamping says AB1010. Gotta look that up.

According to 348-409.com, AB is a 3.36 gear. It supposedy was paired with a powerglide which i dont have. If true, the gearing is not horrible if it were paired with an overdrive.

Kevin,

A search through the GM Heritage Center resource documents shows that the "AB" code was used to identify the common passenger vehicle rear axles mounted behind all equipped with automatic transmissions from 1955-1964. "AB" is specified as manufactured at the "Gear & Axle" plant in Detroit, MI.

None of the specific year GM data files noted what the gear ratio was for "AB" designations, but researching other Chevrolet vehicle description documents shows that the "3.55 to 1" was the standard ratio behind automatic transmissions for those years.

The only specific engine package detail I found when searching all those year documents was for the 1959 model year which indicated it would have been installed in "348" equipped vehicles with either of the available automatic transmissions or the 3 speed manual trans option. Otherwise the only note was that it was used behind automatic transmission equipped vehicles (no specific engine).

Somewhere on that case there may be a "cast" date code that may better identify the actual year of manufacture.

Hope this helps???

Dan

Thanks Dan!

As soon as the temp drops, i plan to jack up the drivers side rear wheel and spin it 10 times while counting revolutions on the pinion. Don’t know any other easy way to confirm the ratio.

I will look for more info on the rearend next time i dive under her. I had to scrape a bunch of grime to find the AB stamp. And that was knowing where to look.

That rear axle is from a 1955-64 passenger car. If the housing is set up for leaf springs, it would be from a 1955-57 year vehicle. 58-64 cars ran coil springs and a different set of axle tubes on a center section with the same bolt pattern for the carrier housing to bolt into. The most recently manufactured versions of that rear end will be 60+ years old, and aftermarket gears and rebuilding parts are anywhere from scarce to nonexistent. It will also have a 5 lug wheel bolt pattern, different from the 6 lug hubs on the front end.

Ditto on the 3 speed overdrive transmission. The SM-319's with the Borg-Warner overdrive are out there somewhere, but you'll have a lot of difficulty finding one that doesn't need a rebuild, or at least freshening up with new bearings, gaskets, etc. The electrical controls, particularly the relay that engages the solenoid, are really scarce. If you're not into doing smoky burnouts with wide cheater slicks on the truck, a T-5 overdrive 5 speed transmission is 50 years newer and it will fit the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the original 3 speed.
My father had a favorite saying- - - -"Automatic transmissions are smarter than all drivers, and most mechanics!" Since he was the first man to work on automatics in Nashville Tennessee in the late 1940's, I think he was qualified to make that assertion.

Since you're not planning to do a numbers-correct restoration anyway, I'd suggest going with a small block V8 of some size, and a 4L60 automatic overdrive transmission. There are programmable stand-alone electronic controllers available that eliminate the need to install the full computer control system it needs to control shift points. RUN- - - -do not walk away from the 4L60's parent trans, the cable controlled 700R4! the Rear end- - - -there are a few versions of a 6 lug axle for S-10 4WD that has a 6 lug bolt pattern and a suitable gear ratio. If you insist on having a standard trans to play with, the T-5 and S-10 rear end play nicely together.

Just one man's opinion- - - -probably worth exactly what it costs you to read it- - - -but it's based on 60+ years of tinkering with these old rust buckets. Good luck!
Jerry

Here is the one I kept. Its 3 speed B W OD. Paired with a 1957
235. The OD is used manually with a cable. I am not sure if the
electronics work or not. I think at 45 MPH the OD kicks and slips the
transmission someway...??/
It worked well in my 58.

Kevin,

Your hard work doesn't go un-noticed.

Thanks for the replies. Both front and back wheels are 5 bolt. I just now looked. I would prefer an automatic to a manual transmission, but I don’t care for the discussion about cutting out the existing tranny bellhouding supporting crossmember to accomodate an automatic. I still have to analyze whether it is true for my girl or not. Also, i would prefer an overdrive gear to make highway driving economical and less of a strain on an engine.

I took pics of this crossmember and noticed several things.
1. The crossmember does not appear to directly support the cab mounts. Not sure where i read this, but the talk was that if you cut the crossmember, the cab mounts are hanging on stubs that will settle over time.
2. My girls crossmember does not appear to be welded in place. I need to do some cleanup, but it appears to be bolted or rivited to the main frame rails.
3. I have seen the tubular tranny/engine crossmember kits that will eliminate the front mounts and support the tranny as well. These kits are bolt in or weld in which is great. However, i still don’t like the idea of cutting out the existing crossmember.

I still need to figure this out. It’s why I’m glad to be here for all y’alls advice and knowledge.

You would add a trany crossmember support, not take away.
It should have 6 lug wheels.

https://www.performanceonline.com/1...YaufuZNjIl8aDhN1aL0TQF9Aw6RoCoBsQAvD_BwE

Gp, are you saying the existing crossmember does not need to be removed to install an sbc with an automatic? I thought i read somewhere that it needs to be cut out. I saw and like those tube crossmembers to support the back of the tranny. I see they have em for the engine as well.

All 4 wheels on my girl are currently 5 bolters. Whats the problem besides trucks often have 6? I had a picture of one of the wheels in my last post. The one with the broken lug. I guess I’ll pull a back and front wheel off to see what was done to convert them to 5.

Sorry if i seem a bit slow. Maybe more than a bit.

K

Are you saying I’ll have a hard time finding pinion/axle seals for this rear end? I can make the gasket

Kevin,

Absolutely nothing wrong with running what you choose for "your" truck!

Your truck having 5 lugs all around just means it was modified from the original "6-lug" design before you got it. It's actually a fairly common conversion. When the passenger car "5-lug" rear axle was installed, the PO (Previous Owner) most likely converted the front hubs to the Chevy passenger car "5-lug hubs" to match everything up (a common change*).

* Here is one of many existing threads in Stovebolt about doing a 5-lug front hub conversion. You can find many more conversations on the subject using this Search the Site link that you will find in the left margin and the top menu bar of Stovebolt web pages. Just click the link and type in the info you want to search and it will provide you a list of links to on-topic posts from the past you can read and learn more from.

I just did a quick web search and found both rear axle shaft and pinion seals for your rear axle readily available from various vendors. Just remember that when you search, you are looking for parts for the 1955-64 "passenger car" rear axle. Truck listings won't match up.

BTW - You can also use the "Search the Site" link above to find previous conversations about what you need for installing an auto transmission. Most if not all of those conversations probably happened in the HiPo Shop forum. A lot of previous "wisdom" and helpful bits of info in those previous posts!!!

Dan

Thanks Dan!
I jacked the drivers rear tire, painted a mark on the tire and pinion. I rotated the tire 10 times. The pinion rotated 17.7 times. I did it twice to make sure my tallies were correct. That puts the gear at 1.77 ??????This car was running a 350 with the original muncie 3 speed when it was last on the road.

If i double the count, i end up with a 3.54 ratio.

Methinks that the 3:54 ratio is right. Never heard of a 1:77.

From what I see, you want to leave this/that. It supports the bell housing before the trany.
I think with a 700R4 you would want that trany bar.

Kevin,

TexasJim50 is correct!

A little searching and I found this thread about determining rear axle gear ratios. Taken from this thread, the correct math would be taking your 17.7 rotations times 2 = 35.40, divided by 10 = 3.54.

I would hazard that there is just a wee bit of fudge factor in your rotation number and that you actually have a 3:55 - 1 ratio. That was stock in the axles installed in passenger cars behind auto transmissions as noted in my earlier post above.

Am sure more folks will chime in about the automatic transmission mount requirements soon.

Dan

Thanks for all the replies. Its been a while for an update. It was fun looking at engines and transmissions that will get me to where I want this truck to be able to drive comfortably. The best combo I found was a Tremec 5 speed with a .64 overdrive gear bolted to a SBC motor. Most of the mileage will be at 55 to 70.

I finally removed all the bed rail bolts and pulled the rails today. When I got to looking at what was supporting the bed I was shocked. There are four bolts remaining that go through the wood and U channel and into the frame. There were eight at one point in time. Problem is, I have removed all the other bolts that connected the bed to the wood boards.😬 It looks like its just hanging in position, ready to drop onto the rear bumper brackets in the rear and the frame rails in the front. Will look again tomorrow to see what I missed. Then I'll put some jacks under the bed if need be.

Next step is to finish getting the steps and rear fenders off. I've gone through my first spray can of Kroil.

Another humorous note comes from my investigation of the existing SM318 clutch fork and pivot ball. Both are well worn. When I looked up the part number for the fork, it appears to come from a 50-54 truck. The pivot ball I could not find. It looks like the Corvette style . The seat I removed comes from some other larger vehicle. All but one of the bolts pulled thru the floor sheet metal. Only a wood block remained attached. Its beginning to look like a Johnny Cash truck.

Happy Labor day!

After a fresh look, the only thing holding the bed up are the two boards (one on each side) that are under the bed side angle brackets. The boards bolted thru to the frame keep those boards and the bed from shifting. I wonder how much those side bed panels and front bed panel weigh? I'm thinking once the fenders are off, two guys can lift the bed off the truck.

I see the front of the bed bolts on to the side panels. The tailgate rail has several welds I will need to cut to get the four bed pieces apart.

It seems there are always other priorities to suck me away from working on "Stella". Yep, I named her. Broken stuff on the daily drivers and then my tractor quit starting. Since I want to procure a larger compressor for body work on Stella, I need that front loader to move it 400 feet from the street to my garage.

I got the Kubota running again but doing more while its in the garage.

The time I did get with Stella, I spent soaking down bolts with penetrant and trying to grow a third arm. Getting the rear fender bolts out without help is real slow. My arms aren't quite long enough.

Still struggling with what to do about a power plant for the ole girl. I decided to pull the heads off the 70's era 350 that came home with her and see how bad it all looks.

Glad to hear she's got a name! I like it. I added it to the titles here and your signature line.

When you were taking care of some of those *other* problems, you at least had plenty of time to soak down some bolts.

A friend stopped by today to help get the rear fenders off. I had prepared by cutting slots in all the carriage bolts for a large screwdriver. The drivers side had a bit of rust which will require a new fender flange for most the fender. Will need to patch the bed side as well. Passenger side looked good.

I pulled the gas tank earlier in the day. The strap bolts snapped off like dry twigs. Will likely drill out the screws and retap the capture nuts.

Started removing the firewall sound proofing. Nasty stuff tarred to the floor pan. This will be one of those jobs to work on when i have nothing else to do. 30 minutes of scraping is enough to lose motivation.

I managed to remove the tail lights and brackets as well.

Been a pretty busy day.

You've got a lot done in just one month. At this rate your 3 year time estimate will be cut in half, at least.

Since I’m still waiting for tractor front end parts to arrive, i spent some quality time with Stella. With some reassurance from the body and paint forum, i decided to use the tools i had to remove a few bedside to crossbrace welds. My cheapo dremmel has been a real friend helping to remove at least 90 some bolts from the bed wood, steps and fenders. I used my last cutting wheel to remove two welds that held the back of the bed together. Its bout ready to lift off for final disassembly. I think I’ll invest in a more powerful dremmel and a hadfull of new cutting discs. Its slow but very precise and makes little to no mess.

After the bed is off, my next target is the skanky farmyard style trailer hitch. Its gotta go. Stella’s years of hard work are over, so she won’t need it.

About time for an update. The bed is finally off Stella 😁. Took some doing working alone. The below tailgate cross brace is damaged more than expected and will be fun straightening the heavy ga metal.

Found an unusual shim tucked back under the drivers side panel at the crossbrace. Cant seem to find it on the parts diagram. I also dug a can full of Great Stuff foam insulation out of a rear cab corner.

Planning to visit a somewhat local machine shop about the motor the came home with Stella. A very ordinary 350 that has been previously bored .030. My first inspection revealed cyl 1,3,5,and 7 are in real good condition. No ridge whatsoever. Considering something along the lines of the Jeff Smith 400 hp build.

Next up are the front fenders and then front and rear glass.

You sure are doing a good job with this story on Stella. Really good images.

Been slackin of late. Health seems to slow me down lately. Been catching up on clearing broken bolts out of keeper nuts from the gas tank straps. Found more stuff to fix. The frame flanges have some damage behind the cab. 😮‍💨 Will need to check the complete frame and make repairs once the cab comes off. As far as i can tell, Stella has been crashed at least two times.

I admit to being a slacker. I actually got back to almost finishing Stellas teardown for the first time since November. I decided to pull the final front fender and get her down to just a cab on frame. I did finish my welding class, purchased a used Mig/gas setup and an 80 gallon compressor. I’m one valve and circuit breaker away from having the compressor installed. I just need to change the oil so i can run in cold weather. I also ordered my first 8 patch panels to rebuild the drivers side from the rear cab corner to the front cowl. I need to install some in-cab bracing, pull the door, then remove the step/rocker, followed by the outer, then inner cab corners and rear pilar. Once the rear panels are all tacked in, i move to the front pilar inner/outer and lower cowl. I will photo the progress. I’m sure it will be slow.

I have been helping a friend with his 50gmc 1 ton with many of the same issues. The experience has been a great confidence builder.

The weather has taken a hard turn into winter in central Illinois. Fortunately Stella and all her parts are tucked away in dry locations. Rumors say single digits will slow me down even further for a few weeks.

The good news is i received a box of body panels yesterday which are for the drivers side lower cab. All came well packaged, no damage. Once i verify fitment, i plan to order the passenger side. This could prove to be a good cold weather task. I attached pics of two out of 8 panels i received. The largest was the inner step/rocker. The pics are two of the smaller panels. Will include pics of others later as i start slicing and dicing.

The last remaining front fender disassembly has been fighting me. I’m back to cutting screws and bolts with my dremmel cutoff wheel. This to is coming to an end. After this final fender, only door and cab bolts remain to give me fits.

It’s been a while since i have spent quality time with Stella. Installed bracing today to prepare for surgery. Rocker/step, front and rear pilars, lower cowel and cab corner are all up for replacement.

Wow! This looks like it'll be some surgery.

The first 20 spot welds are drilled out on the step. Only 40 to go.

44 spot welds and 2 torch welds removed to get this step out. The video must have been too big to post.

Kevin, UBB settings doesn't support videos. If you have hosted it somewhere, you can put a link to it. ~ Peggy

Stella received some much needed attention today. I trimmed the step/rocker to fit the existing slot. The fit is just where i want it. Fitting it now helps assure my gaps will be correct after I install all the vertical patch panels. Next i removed spot welds for the outer cab corner where it attaches to the pillar and the inner cab corner. Lots of finagling on getting to all the spot welds. The next task is to cut and remove the pillar to give access to inner cab corner repairs. Another 5 hour day and I’m exhausted.

I finally had the opportunity to start the first metal repair on Stella. After removing the rotted door pillar and inner cab corner tab, the support brace was exposed so i could drill out the rot and weld in a patch. Was good to finally start putting new metal back in. Now i need to finish removing the rest of the rot from the inner cab corner and install new cab corner and door pillar patch panels.

Had some time to install the door pillar patch panel and the inner cab corner filler. The process is slow as i need to aquire tools as i go. I set the step in place to verify fitment and all my door opening dimensions. Next comes a partial inner cab corner panel and the outer cab corner.

I like how you have prepared everything for body repairs. You have reminded me of steps I have seen elsewhere, but would probably have forgotten.
I have a ‘50 3100 that I am in the “tear it apart stage” of a frame up restoration. When I tackle the cab repairs, you’ve reminded me that I need to have the cab bolted back to the frame, and the door openings braced to maintain integrity before I start cutting into the rusty bits.
Thanks for taking the time to document your truck project. It may help you, but it really helps us.

Thanks Paul. I learned from countless youtube videos where the person making the repair video would say. I wished i had braced the door opening before cutting steps, rockers pillars. I will do the bracing a little different on the passenger side to avoid interferences with disassembly and welding new panels in. I had to repair the drivers side inner cab corner rather than replacing the entire patch panel because of my floor brace choice. Live and learn.

Its been a long 6 months with no real activity on Stella. The marginal fit of the rear cab corner left me scratching my head as to a path forward. I finally jumped into it today and finish cut the panel to fit and tacked it in place along the match line. The only remaining mismatch is in the lower right where the new panel tacks to the cab along the original cut line. I have decided to massage that body line into place after i finish the weld line and all the plug welds. Worst case, i cut it, reshape and weld it up.

I previously sanded and primed the inner cab corner side that faces the outter cab corner since there was no way to accomplish this after the outter cab corner is installed. Sorry, no pictures of that work.

After checking my dimensions for the door opening, i have decided to rehang the door, before proceeding with any more outter cab corner welds, as i have no good dimensions to use due to bondo buildup on both door openings where the rocker met the cab corner/pillar. I also need to do some work on the rocker as it was not fabricated to fit very well at the pillar/cab corner. The door line will give me a better target to fit to. Dang doors are heavy. Gonna need help to hang it. 😮‍💨

Here's what I did to hang doors single-handed. Should work on your 1958 as well.

Thanks klh. I dont have a picker. I borrow one when needed. I think i will cut a 2x8 to span the above trusses and use come alongs. I considered buying a picker. I will need one when i pull the cab from the frame.

Taking baby steps as the junction of rocker, rear piller and cab corner is critical. Tomorrow i hope to fit the rocker and move the door from the barn to the garage. I measured the two doors and found the width at the bottom to be almost 3/16” different. Lotsa hack work done on Stella in years past. I hope that resolves with all new panels.

I decided to temporarily set the step/rocker in place and get the rough fit done. It took some cutting and grinding at the junction where the rocker meets the cab corner. Im happy with it at this point. Need to set the door to make any final adjustments before i finish welding the outer cab corner.

The step comes back out while i replace the front door pillar. I have all the patch panels. Another challenge for sure. I hope the passenger side goes a tad faster.

I noticed the new step/rocker patch panel does not have the rocker reinforcement bracket that is present on Stella’s original step. Can’t find it in the Factory Assembly Manual or online. I guess i will need to rescue and reuse them.

Well I’m glad i hung the door to check gaps. I had to remove the outer cab corner to adjust the pillar and inner cab corner. Today, I started installing the cab corner for the last time. 20 more plug welds and a few at the bottom where the inner and outer cab corner come together and its in.

The lesson learned is i should have checked gaps as i was disassembling. Unfortunately, i assumed if i put the patch in the exact same place all would be good. I had sketches with dimensions to confirm panels were set properly. Won’t make that mistake again.

You’re taking baby steps, but making good progress. It’s definitely a learning process but seems so far you have learned from your mistakes. I bet the other side goes much smoother and a bit quicker.

Don’t be surprised if your three year project goes to five or six. Mine was a three year and now I’m in year six and I still have two or so years to go. My biggest issue is time. Life keeps reminding me it’s only a hobby and my family is the priority. I do enjoy my time in the shop and it’s my therapy that rejuvenates me.

Keep at it and you’ll soon see the fruits of your labor!

PS: Now that you have a new compressor, trade that Dremmel in for a pneumatic die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Your dissecting will go much quicker!

Thanks phak! I do have a die grinder with various wheels. The dremmel does better for super tight areas . Especially with the diamond wheel. The tiny dremmel flapper sanding wheel has been a blessing at times.

I thought retirement would offer more me time. But like you said, other priorities get in the way. Especially health. When i do get some time, i usually go at it for 3 or 4 hours. Its great for mental health.

I appreciate all the support here.

Those cab corners are looking good. Wish I had the skill to do this type of body work. Great progress.

You do! I was determined, took a welding class at the local junior college and practiced on scrap. Bought a used mig welder setup, compressorand a few air tools and i was off to the races. I probably watched 100 hours of video on you tube. Especially Bad Chad who aint bad at all.

I’m an amateur, other than my determination. And pickiness. I’m documenting my adveture here so others can use it for encouragement and lessons learned.

This site will help you do anything on these old beasts.

K

I took some time today to continue with final welds on Stella’s outter cab corner. I’m at the no fun part as there is a run of plug welds along the bottom edge. Welding upside down is not fun!

Just a quick update. Spent about 3 hours today finishing all the final welds on Stella’s drivers side rear cab corner
(inner and outer) and latch pillar. Happy to be moving on to the drivers side hinge pillar (inner and outer) and fender bracket. Progress has been slow, but I’m pleased with the outcome. 😁

Door is off, and I have marked most of the spot welds for drilling. I did order some new tools to make removal a bit smoother than the previous effort. My plan is to cut the pillar just above the lower hinge. I need to cut high enough to be above the floor so the hinge pocket panel can be removed and replaced. I will be using the entire patch panel for the lower cowl. Including the lower fender bracket, there are four pieces to remove and replace. Expect lotsa pictures and the painful detail associated with my posts.

Worked about 3 hours today starting to dismantle the drivers side hinge pillar. Once i removed the 1980’s vintage patch that was welded in from below, disassembly went smoothly. Pillar is rough cut and out, fender bracket about fell off. I was worried about removing the hinge pocket panel as there were supposed to be about 5 spot welds to the floor pan, none of which were present 🤷😗. One more spot weld to remove and it will fall out. I plan to finish lower cowl demo next time. I also plan to do an inspection of the cowl interior before closing it up to see if more must be removed.

I went back out last night cus i wanted the hinge pocket out. It just kept bugging me. I could not find any welds holding it in. The bottom end was rotted out, but there should have been 4 or 5 at the top attaching it to the floor pan. Nothing there, never was. I tugged on it a bit and it fell out onto the floor. You can see in the pic there are no spot welds across the top. I found this humorous since im the guy taking it out.

The project scope just grew. Just ordered a new cowl for the drivers side. I was not happy with my internal wire cam inspection, nor the rust on top at the fender attachment, nor the fact that none of the spot welds on the lower left side are holding to the material below. I scraped about 6” of undercoat off the seam and none of the 3 welds i looked at are holding.

She gone!

Its 90 degrees here today, but i spent 30 minutes rough cutting the ventlation cowling out to gain access inside. Glad i did as there was no other way i know of to deal with 67 years of surface rust. It was also packed with leaves I never would have seen without removal. I plan to scotchbrite the surface rust, treat it with phosphoric acid and seal it with epoxy and then install the new cowling.

First i need to remove all the spot welds.

Kevin - Appreciate the level of detail you go into to tell us how things are progressing. Pictures speak volumes. Hope things progress easier as you go.

Thanks gdads. Removed the rest of the spot welds except those across the top as i had no luck finding them. I ended up cutting the flange of the cowl and will butt weld the new cowl panel across the top. Started scotchbrite and wire wheel cleanup. Phosphoric acid is next. I’m hoping to get my hands on some Mastercoat silver to paint the plenum since I’m unsure i can clean the acid out well enough to use epoxy. Too many nooks and crannies.

While i wait for mastercoat, I’ll pull the damper operator cable and lubricate it. It’s difficult to operate the damper.

Finished converting the inner plenum . It took four separate passes with the phosphoric acid. The nature of the surface rust took more time with wet acid to covert than anything else i have worked on. I need to reapply one more time to disolve the coating the acid leaves behind, then cleanup with fresh water. Still not sure if i want to paint with mastercoat silver or leave it to fog with a wax/oil product.

I struggled with the spot welds along the top of the cowl and decided to cut it flush with the flange for the upper panel. No way to get a seam splitter in that space due to the vent duct obstructing access. If you look at the patch panel, you will see what i proved that no way was that new cowl panel going to slide under the upper panel flange without bending the flange outward, mangling the panel. I plan to cut off and butt weld the top seam to the right and left of the fender mount. I will try to get the section of cowl flange behind the fender mount to slide in place. Wish me success.

Sorry, no pictures for this update. I neutralized the acid and washed the entire plenum followed up by wire wheel which removed the converted iron down to grey steel for probably 90% of the plenum. The stubbord 10% remaining had rust under the converted iron phosphate.

Decided to whip out my lil sand blaster to cleanup the remaining rust but suprise suprise, my cheapo harbor frieght blaster has a hose that has completely degraded and fell apart after just one year.

Instead of knocking my head against the wall, i reapplied phosphoric acid and will order a “real” hose for my little blaster and go on vacation for a week.

Did i mention that trying to purchase Master Coat silver encapsulator paint has been an epic fail. I’m on the list to be notified when their product comes back in stock. I received an email and went to try to purchase within an hour and they were out of stock again. Heck of a way to run a business. I call these kinds of businesses hobby businesses, cus they don’t exist to make $$.

I emailed eastwood and asked about their encapsulator platinum only to get the same response as they give about the epoxy primers. You must get all traces of acid and acid byproducts removed and fully neutralized to ensure adhesion. I’m real close to giving up on paint sealers and going with lanolin products.