Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
|
| |
7 members (Guitplayer, JW51, mo2cyl, Otto Skorzeny, 55shaker, Wally / Montana, 1 invisible),
73
guests, and
3
robots. | | Key: Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,050 Posts1,055,757 Members48,426 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
|
| THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
|
| | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | Having trouble with the screws that hold the rear brake drums in place on my 54. Been spraying them with kroil and smacking them with the impact driver no luck. Are the drums threaded or just the part the screws thread to behind the drum. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Feb 2006 Posts: 1,867 | I know on my art deco there not threaded in the drum, just the hub. It would seem goofy to thread both. Id assume they are similar. Try getting a big flathead and tapping it on the end with a small sledge fairly hard into the screws, might help???
Good luck, Jeff | | | | | Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,186 | Heat it with a torch. The expansion and contraction should break them loose. If your truck catches on fire.....I didn't tell you to do it though!! | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | Thanks for the suggestions. | | | | | Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Jan 2005 Posts: 1,602 |
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,276 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 1,276 | If you have a torch heat the head of the scew and hit it with you inpact driver as it cools.
The heat will cause it to expand and put a slight strech to it. When it cools it will contract leaving it lose. | | | | | Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2000 Posts: 587 | I've had to use small chisel, carefully aimed at outer edges of slots to start it turning. It messes up screw and will need replacement. Lots of penetrant and heat works too. Sometimes the impact tool works, not always. You can pull the drum and hub as one by removing the axle and big nuts. You just doing brake job? That way hub is out of way for brake work too. You should put in new rear hub seals if you do brakes anyway.
G.L. Grumpy's
Old Iron Ranch
Huntington, IN 46750
MM R tractor, Speedex
and Power King tractors
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | Was planning to do the brakes and leave the seal alone since they aren't leaking. When i did my 38 the first time I pulled the Drum and hub. next time I'll look and see if they have the 3 screw option. Haven't gotten back to those screws yet.So far have tried the penetrant, Chisel, impact driver. Even tried the ford method....cussed them real good. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 2,549 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2002 Posts: 2,549 | I always pull the drum, & hub, as a unit. Part of my preventive maintenace methods. This way you're not only checking the brakes, but you're also checking the rear bearings, bearing races, seals, etc. | | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 1,144 | Perhaps thats the way to go, heck with those screws. | | |
|
|
