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Mod | | | Forums66 Topics128,021 Posts1,055,346 Members48,420 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | Well...I got the cab off the frame of my 53 6400 and built a dollie to set it on. I noticed the passenger side of the frame where the front bumper is attached is bent outward a little bit...I would say about 2". Other then that, the frame is in great shape. The bend starts about 12" back from the end of the frame. It looks like at one time the truck hit something on the passenger side on the front bumper. Can I heat the frame at start of the bend and beat it back with a sledge? If I do that, I'm afraid I may loose some of the intigrity of the frame. Or doesn't it matter too much at this part of the frame. I know I'll have to straighten out or the front bumper won't bolt on.
Any theories?
Thanks... Ron | | | | | Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 27 Apprentice | | Apprentice Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 27 | If there are no cracks, heating and straighening are fine. These frames are made of low-tech mild steel and were designed to be welded for mods or repairs. Just take a lot of careful diagonal measurements to be sure the frame is straight.
Joe Padavano
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 332 Big Bolt Shop Curmudgeon | | Big Bolt Shop Curmudgeon Joined: Jan 2001 Posts: 332 | Joe's advice on diagonal measurements is very sound. If you do not know all the ins and outs of frame measuring (like me) I suggest you get somebody who does know a bit about it (like someone who builds trailers) to give you pointers or even stop by for a beer.
before you know it, a couple beers, and a frame guy can't keep his hands off a measuring tape!
If all the work is on that part of the frame ahead of the front suspension and wheel connections, you are in good shape.
The other thing to remember is that heating and bending metal is an art and a science. Putting pressure on heated metal can cause what you plan to be a flat-face bend can introduce torsion forces which can cause the metal to twist.
Take your time.
Drivin' down a 2 lane country road in a stovebolt.....cowboy, it don't get no better than this!
1946 1-1/2 ton Chevy "Ol Blue", or "THE BIG 'UN"
| | | | | Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Dec 2003 Posts: 2,733 | I would suggest you leave the torch in the cart and use a portapower to make the necessary adjustments. Tie the front end down to the floor if possible to get as stable a work area as you can. For years I owned and operated a heavy truck shop and we did frame and driveline work almost every day which doesn't mean I'm an expert but certainly I am quite experienced. Your only real concern on the frame horns is if the front spring hanger is in the effected area. This is not a terribly difficult repair if you take your time and measure, guage and re-measure. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | The use of heat or the portapower all makes sense to me. My only question is with the portapower. The frame is bent outward, not downward. Can you still use a portapower for the direction I have to go? I was also thinking about cutting the piece off, then welding it back into the position it needs to be. Is this also an option?
Glenn, you mentioned (beer, tape measure, frame work...)I do in fact have a friend who drinks beer and works on frames! Must be a popular hobby! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2004 Posts: 3,068 | I would take it to a frame shop and have it professionally straightened. Shouldn't cost too much I would think, Scott | | | | | Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 355 Member | | Member Joined: Nov 2005 Posts: 355 | Well these frames were pickled when they built them. That means they were put though a process to harden them. Putting heat on or drilling holes in them make them weak. Chain it down to the floor and use a port o power just like a frame shop would use. Go to the frame shop, you wont see them heating any frame there. | | | | | Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2006 Posts: 453 | Sounds like the majority rules...I'm gonna call my buddy to straighten the frame for me, just to be on the safe side. He's a owner/mechanic for a local trash collection company. After looking at it in more detail last night, the bend actually starts about 2" infront of the front spring hanger. Like I said earlier, the bend is not that severe, so it shouldn't be to hard to straighten.
Thanks for the feedback | | |
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