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#147097 06/06/2006 11:27 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
Well...I got the cab off the frame of my 53 6400 and built a dollie to set it on. I noticed the passenger side of the frame where the front bumper is attached is bent outward a little bit...I would say about 2". Other then that, the frame is in great shape. The bend starts about 12" back from the end of the frame. It looks like at one time the truck hit something on the passenger side on the front bumper. Can I heat the frame at start of the bend and beat it back with a sledge? If I do that, I'm afraid I may loose some of the intigrity of the frame. Or doesn't it matter too much at this part of the frame. I know I'll have to straighten out or the front bumper won't bolt on.

Any theories?

Thanks...
Ron

#147098 06/06/2006 3:27 PM
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 27
J
Apprentice
Apprentice
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 27
If there are no cracks, heating and straighening are fine. These frames are made of low-tech mild steel and were designed to be welded for mods or repairs. Just take a lot of careful diagonal measurements to be sure the frame is straight.


Joe Padavano
#147099 06/06/2006 4:20 PM
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 332
G
Big Bolt Shop Curmudgeon
Big Bolt Shop Curmudgeon
G Offline
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 332
Joe's advice on diagonal measurements is very sound. If you do not know all the ins and outs of frame measuring (like me) I suggest you get somebody who does know a bit about it (like someone who builds trailers) to give you pointers or even stop by for a beer.

before you know it, a couple beers, and a frame guy can't keep his hands off a measuring tape!

If all the work is on that part of the frame ahead of the front suspension and wheel connections, you are in good shape.

The other thing to remember is that heating and bending metal is an art and a science. Putting pressure on heated metal can cause what you plan to be a flat-face bend can introduce torsion forces which can cause the metal to twist.

Take your time.


Drivin' down a 2 lane country road in a stovebolt.....cowboy, it don't get no better than this!

1946 1-1/2 ton Chevy
"Ol Blue", or "THE BIG 'UN"
#147100 06/06/2006 5:08 PM
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 2,733
I would suggest you leave the torch in the cart and use a portapower to make the necessary adjustments. Tie the front end down to the floor if possible to get as stable a work area as you can. For years I owned and operated a heavy truck shop and we did frame and driveline work almost every day which doesn't mean I'm an expert but certainly I am quite experienced. Your only real concern on the frame horns is if the front spring hanger is in the effected area. This is not a terribly difficult repair if you take your time and measure, guage and re-measure.


1953 Chevy 5-window 3100
In the Stovebolt Gallery
More pix on Picturetrail

Dave
Engine & Driveline Moderator

If you can't make seventy by an easy road, don't go. ~~ Mark Twain
#147101 06/06/2006 6:25 PM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
The use of heat or the portapower all makes sense to me. My only question is with the portapower. The frame is bent outward, not downward. Can you still use a portapower for the direction I have to go? I was also thinking about cutting the piece off, then welding it back into the position it needs to be. Is this also an option?

Glenn, you mentioned (beer, tape measure, frame work...)I do in fact have a friend who drinks beer and works on frames! Must be a popular hobby!

#147102 06/06/2006 11:45 PM
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
'Bolter
'Bolter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 3,068
I would take it to a frame shop and have it professionally straightened. Shouldn't cost too much I would think,
Scott


Scott Ward

2 1948 1.5-ton Loadmasters
The red one and The snow pusher
1 1950 3100
1 1955.1 Chevy 6500
1 1954 Chevy 6500 2-Ton
1 1955 1st Series COE 5700
1 1963 K20 (454)
1 1964 C10 (350)
1 1951 1.5-ton Dump Truck
1953 and a 1956 Ford F800

Raising a teenager is like trying to nail Jello to a tree!
#147103 06/06/2006 11:59 PM
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
I
Member
Member
I Offline
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 355
Well these frames were pickled when they built them. That means they were put though a process to harden them. Putting heat on or drilling holes in them make them weak. Chain it down to the floor and use a port o power just like a frame shop would use. Go to the frame shop, you wont see them heating any frame there.


Jeff
1947 Chevy 6400 2-ton
In the Gallery
1953 3/4-ton
In the Gallery
It was fun while it lasted
#147104 06/07/2006 11:34 AM
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
M
Shop Shark
Shop Shark
M Offline
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 453
Sounds like the majority rules...I'm gonna call my buddy to straighten the frame for me, just to be on the safe side. He's a owner/mechanic for a local trash collection company. After looking at it in more detail last night, the bend actually starts about 2" infront of the front spring hanger. Like I said earlier, the bend is not that severe, so it shouldn't be to hard to straighten.

Thanks for the feedback


Moderated by  69Cuda, Super55 

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