The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Painting the frame (suggestions)

I wll be getting my frame sand blasted in about 2 weeks. Ive talked to two body shops about painting my frame. One wanted $200 the other $250 i asked both of them and they said they wouldnt prime the frame, just paint it. Is this right? What do you guys think is that the normal price range or should i paint it with some rustoleum paint. I figured the paint they would use would be better than the can paint. any thoughts suggestions would be appreciated

thanks

What are they using for paint? (product name)

i would look at some of the products at eastwood co. they have spray on and brush type. you could do it yourself.. ron

I have to tell you, the best way to do that frame would be to epoxy prime it, then apply a urethane single stage paint right over it. This requires no sanding between the primer and the paint. It would give you a very durable finish, MUCH better than it had from the factory.

You can buy some "value line" epoxys and urethane single stage paints like OMNI, or NAPAs Martin Senour Cross/FIRE and have them do it. It is going to be MUCH better than Rustolinum, that is for wheel barrels.

Brian

Oh man. I am driving around in a wheel barrel.

Some day I plan to change paints and drive a truck.

Sorry Dennis, no offense. It has it's place, I was out of line.

Brian

so they should prime it. i was told since its a chassis and wont get a lot of sum it wont need it. i guess i should go the extra step and get it primed thank you all for your suggestions please keep em coming,

what about the price. i really dont know what paint they are using i just went to the body shop and asked how much to paint my frame. all they told me is that it would be chassis black color paint. .

I used Eastwoods Extreme Chassis Black rattle can on my frame and suspension took a little over 6 cans, was well under $100 to do it myself and the color looks great.
Beware though and USE PROPER VENTILATION & A RESPERATOR, this is pretty potent stuff as far fumes, probabaly from the epoxy hardner .

wheel barrow!

i was so confused for a minute trying to figure out what a wheel barrel was...

I used Crossfire epoxy and acrylic enamel on the frame of my 4t6 with good results. If I were to redo I would use a black or darker primer as it's easier to cover. I've also used tractor paints on trailers and frames with good results. I painted my 4t6 with tractor paint with hardener and am happy with results. It is a cheaper alternative. Pics below
Dan
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2951450480071274430qeOjmO

I've been driving my 1937 Wheel Barrow (Rustoleum primer and paint) for 7 years now and the frame still looks good. However, the current project (panel) will get POR-15 this go round. Anchondo, there is a topic in this forum about POR-15, which many of us have discussed time and time again, but it may help you to hit your back button and click on it just for more info....or call it info overload!! MartinSr :hammering: Sorry, just couldn't resist

POR15 it yourself. With nothing attached to the frame, it should be easy as pie. It doesn't require a primer, but you should spray it with the phosphate metal prep stuff. The POR15 will be tougher than rustoleum and brushes on nice and smooth. I wouldn't recommend spraying it; I believe we had a discussion about that a few weeks ago. It's not good for your health.

Sandblast the frame and use POR-15 the same day, you'll spend $30 for a quart and maybe use a quarter of it on your frame. Keep it covered or indoors until you can get the body on it and people will think you had it powdercoated.

I was going to ask why would you not want to use something like POR-15 or my favorite the Zero Rust stuff? For Zero Rust - Seems like that would be all in one step sort of deal and you would be done. That POR-15 stuff is great I hear but most of the guys here scared me talking about folks getting bad sick after accidentally breathing some of it.

Brian,

No offense taken. I knew when I painted the truck with rustoleum I was only trying to get it to look presentable and in one color. The old 10 foot paint job approach. I liked the wheel barrow comment. I laugh at it. So I used it.

I have always enjoyed your posts. I am just sorry that I don't understand some of them.

Michael, the only way you're going to get sick with POR-15 is if you spray it and inhale the mist... it's moisture cured so it'd cure immediately in your lungs. The fumes are no worse than breathing any other automobile paint. I've brushed it on 99.9% of the time and had not ill effects other than trying to figure out the best way to get it off my skin. When brushed it flows out and looks smooth when cured.

Lee

After blasting I used a epoxy primer and then DuPont Industrial gloss black.

anchondo, I also live in El Paso, NorthEast. I am doing my 56 with POR 15. It's not bad if you do it outside in ventalation with paint mask, googles, and those surgeon gloves. Rustoleum paint cans is for furniture. Ask yourself if you want it done right the first time or do it all again in a few years.

hey jose56pu where did you buy the POR 15. Did you buy it here locally? I definitely want to do it right that is why i went to a body shop but im pretty good with my hands so im going to try the POR 15. you wouldnt know any body in town that is selling a box for a 47-53 chevy gmc truck i need the bed sides?

Powder coat?

Sun really isn't the issue, your frame takes a lot worse beating than the body does. This is the first place that will get chipped and scratched. Besides,unless you plan on putting your truck up on a hoist every time you wash it, you have dirt, gravel, sand, and road grime that get up on top of all the brackets and body supports and just sits up there. If you're not a painter, but would like to learn/practice, a chassis it the perfect place to do it, and save money. It's pretty hard to screw up a frame paint job. Get the materials and DIY. Just my opinion.