I am about 60% through my CPP 6-bolt disc upgrade on my 51 Chevy 1/2 ton.
First some observations so far, then a couple of questions at the end.
There are definitely some frustrations with this kit and the 'instructions' are woeful.
Fundamental things like the 'handing' of brackets, which are not identified for left & right, nor indicated in instructions as to which is which is a serious omission.
For anyone who needs to know, the offset goes towards inside!
Another omission- although minor - the holes in the brackets for the flex/hard brake line junction need to be opened up in order for the union to fit through to insert the retainer.
The bottom bolts supplied for the caliper brackets are 1/2" - you find this in small print at the end of the 'instructions' and that you should drill out the corresponding OEM parts.
Well, since only the lower rear is used to attach the bracket on the bottom, the forward lower can still use a 7/16" bolt without any modification. So need to do anything there!
Also, were I to do this with the benfit of hind-sight. I would NOT drill the bracket & steering link out, but get a spacer bushing for the bracket to use a 7/16" bolt per original size! It would be so simple for CPP to add in this hardware - disappointing they don't.
Other than that all is fairly straight forward - although driving out the old bearings and the studs from one hub proved to be quite the chore. Prevailed in the end though. Heating the hub with a torch aided in bearing removal for the second one.
Before re-installing the new Tapered Roller Bearings, I dressed the chamfered edge of the hubs and lightly sanded the seat with some 320 wet/dry.
I popped the bearing shells in the freezer overnight; also wiped some release oil on the hub and the bearing shell prior to install, then tapped it flush with plastic hammer and wooden block. Here's a tip to drive the remaining depth - take your old bearing shell and cut a slot all the way through on the side; use that shell to drive the new bearing fully home. The split means you can actually pull it back out with your fingers, no need to worry about it being wedged back tightly again.
OK - my questions!
1) My truck is a 3-speed manual transmission. I see some references (incl in the sales listing) that a different transmission bracket
may be required.
Is this necessary for my specific application?
2) I found one reference that said the rod linkage from the power booster does not fit to pedal without modification - can anyone confirm? (suggestion was it was too long & needed to be cut & re-threaded)
3)Can the original hard lines be facilitated to work with the new dual master/PPV? Or will new hard lines be required? These were replace dnot too long ago and still in good shape so if I can avoid replacing again, so much the better
4) Wheels. The sales lit says
may not fit std wheels - well mine don't!!! They bind on the calipers Can anyone tell me what size spacer is required? (Or indeed hopefully that a spacer will work!) I may experiment with some washers in interim to see what's needed. Ultimately would like some new wheels to fit better tires, but need to get it back toegther in short term!
Regarding the power booster, I just came across the electric booster from ABS - depending on how much they are and if I can recover a reasonable amount on the vac booster, that might be interesting to try.
Anyone need a brand new vac booster still in the wrapping?
Thanks for listening and any advice on the remaining questions is appreciated.
