********* "No Start When Hot" riddle finally solved ******************

I went ahead and installed new 02AWG heavy duty battery cables, just to end the chance that they may have been defective:

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/18304/filename/STA77180.JPG[/img]

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/18305/filename/STA77185.JPG[/img]

The new Voltage Regulator was installed a couple days ago:

[img]https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/download/Number/18306/filename/STA77192.JPG[/img]

Took the 69 C10 on a 30 minute drive today, and turned the engine off.........then turned the key, and she cranked right up with no issues.

So I am "hopefully certain/ 98% positive" that the "No Start When Hot" issue is solved. The Voltage Regulator had been charging at around 18 volts, boiling and internally screwing-up the battery plates. With the engine warm and the battery screaming mad at holding 18 volts, I think this internal heat totally destroyed the amperage ability of the battery......and thats why the starter barely turned over the engine. Now that it is charging at the proper 14 volts, the battery has the amperage power to crank the engine when warm. However, I think this battery has been damaged from this excessive overcharging......I put a battery load tester on it and it is right at the borderline area of being "Weak", and it does not want to hold a solid 12.6 volts, but will drift downward to 12 volts, even with the battery disconnected. So, will be getting a new battery soon.

However, this really does not explain why the engine was harder to manually crank over by hand when it was warm.


Keep the rusty classics going.