Rich,
I'm currious...how much/little clearance do you think the tappered bearings need and what problems do you see in following the shop manual procedures?
I found this on Timkin's site;
"No special tooling, gauges, charts or fixtures are typically required, but assembler’s skill and judgment are necessary. For example, in the case of a
conventional truck non-driven wheel with a single adjusting nut design, manual setting involves tightening the adjusting nut while rotating the wheel until
a slight bind is felt. Then the adjusting nut is backed off 1/6 to 1/4 turn to the nearest locking hole or sufficiently to allow the wheel to rotate freely
with some minimal end play. The adjusting nut is then locked in this position."
Chevrolet/GM engineers have taken the guesswork out for what they concider bind to be by giving us a foot pounds of torque number (based on bearing size) for "preload bind" and then telling us to back it off 1/6 of a turn or more to line up with the hole (sounds like GM had Timkin write this procedure). This adjustment allows for bearing expansion as the bearing heats up to normal opperating temperature.
By sanding the nut or washer isn't that going to give the same result as turning the nut to the next available slot?
Am I missing somnething here???
Mike B
