I will take the nut off to see if there is another position other than 3 and 9 o'clock I am currently aware of. I completely cleaned spindle and bearings during the complete brake rebuild. Even went as far as to paint wheel cylinders, backing plates and dust shields. The spindle bearing and seal surfaces were in great shape. The barrel roller bearings and races looked great too. With the bearings at 55 lbs of preload and wheels on ground there is no more movement when pulling the top of wheel back and forth. So, I am going to rule out kingpins.
The left handed thread caught me by surprise also. I just assumed all were this way. I never have had a truck this big to compare or experience.
The idea of adding washers seems to be the best way to fine tune the adjustment.
What is surprising is the fact that at 55 ft lbs of preload the castle nut slot is almost in perfect line with the hole in the spindle. Turning back 1/6 of a six sided nut is one flat of the nut. So, I have only turned the nut back one slot, or one flat, to insert the cotter pin. If there is another hole available for the cotter pin the final adjustment will be less than 1/6 of a turn minimum per the shop manual. The difference in turning that nut back one flat is significant. I even checked my torque wrench to make sure it wasn't giving me a false reading. This is the same with both sides. This is a retired fire truck with less than 5000 on the odometer.
Thanks for all the suggestions,
Rich