Thanks for the great info. 52Carl's list is what I was looking for; the Dead Engine Back to Life article (DEBTL) is a must-read; and Hotrod Lincoln's suggestions are very helpful.
Now for the update: Today I did most of the mechanical things suggested in DEBTL, and I tested for voltage at the coil. I do have voltage on both sides of the coil (+/-), and at the top where the wire to the distributor plugs in. I had the dist. cap off and inspected the cap and rotor, but I didn't inspect the points nor did I do the check where you open the points and look for spark (I'll do that tomorrow).
The really interesting thing to me, because I have started and driven this truck in the past, is that in checking for juice at the coil, I discovered that my 3-position ignition switch is ON in the center position (vertical key). I would have bet my life that in the past, she would only start with the key in position 3, to the right. But I have no voltage at the coil in that position. So I was all excited, thinking she'd start, now that I know when the key is on, but she didn't start and wouldn't even crank after about 7 seconds; starter motor just got sluggish, even though battery still read 6.2 volts.
I'll do the points thing tomorrow, now that I know which key position is ON. Or I may just go buy a set of plugs, and while they're out, I may set the timing (as described in DEBTL). It's also possible that since I thought vertical key was off, I've "let all the smoke out" of my coil, as Carl likes to say. Maybe a new one of those, too.
By the way, I do have a test light, but it's very dim at 6 volts. But hey, on is on I guess. More updates tomorrow evening, I hope.
DJ
'51 Chevrolet 3100
