When you reduce down to 6 volts, reduce the entire heater circuit including the original switch and the tri-lead resistor on the back. Thats all there is to it. Now everything works as it did in 6 volts and the only thing that gets crazy hot is that 12-6v reducer.
You'd think, huh. But I'm not happy with the dropping resistor arrangement I've experimented with.
Or do this:
http://devestechnet.com/Home/HeaterRestore12v motor will run you about $50 and then for your original switch, get 2 one ohm 10 watt resistors and replace the one on the back of the switch. Might run about $55 total plus shipping. I have the two resistors but havent gotten around to updating the page yet. There are a few things I want to test before putting it out there as far as placement, wiring, etc.
Nice write-up and pics. However, my heater (GMC,HC-06-51) is quite different from yours.
Chevs of 40's: $60.75 not $50. And my motor shaft is 5/16". So, that motor landed in Canada will run me well over $100, plus new 12v resistor switch.
If I can't get any joy from using a simple voltage reduction kit, I may just order a spectrum of Chinese parts to experiment with. This could include bigger resistors, an electronic step down converter (as described earlier) or put together something like this, only make it easily adjustable with an extendable potentiometer for controlling the motor by omitting the pesky resistor switch altogether (ala PWM control):
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additi...nsive-voltage-drops-part-ii-transistors/This still seems like a better more elegant solution to me ..other than replacing the motor and switch.
As was stated in the original post, I would just like to get some feedback from others who have had some success in employing these e-devices.
