Yeah, I wonder how it would work with a non-static motor load?

So, if the output voltage can be set to say, 6.5vdc, then the heater & switch will draw whatever amperage is needed -- is that how it works?
Or would the amperage have to be preset somehow, and if that's the case, it may again overheat the switch ..hmm.

Another one I found is here: http://www.prodctodc.com/dc-1035v-t...24v-to-6v-7a-42w-p-190.html#.VeiPUM-FOPx
But it's fixed at 6 volts, 7 amps.


Originally Posted by Denny Graham
For less than five bucks, give it a shot and report back
to us on the results.
It's probably using something like a pair of the LM2596
voltage regulators to get the higher current capacity.
These are switching power supplies and convert DC to AC
at a high frequency which allows them to step it down (buck)
or step it up (boost) it to the lower or higher voltage thru
an inductor.
Then it's rectified and filtered converting it back to a DC
output. These typically have an efficiency over 90%.
I may be wrong but I think these can generate some RF electrical
noise and may interfere with receiving devices.
The voltage booster cubes are similar circuits and I use a 5A
one to power my 12v tach and Sony AM/FM/CD player on my stock
6v system.

DG