I think this whole thread has not given the original poster much direction. I have seen cracked main caps and they ran a long time by just putting as large a washer that will fit. It was my original suggestion for him to do that. Honing has nothing to do with this problem. I have a Superior honing machine with a 14" stroke and it has pulled stones bigger than 6" It will freshen up blocks that a lot of people would bore these days. But it is a hone and it will not bore a cylinder and it certainly will not hone bearing caps. I see only a few feasible options. The cheap way would be to put a washer over it or possibly even V out the crack and weld it and it would probably run as long as the guy owns the vehicle. If the hillbilly fix would worry him, I would suggest buying another 235 and just freshen it up. If he installs a different cap, I think there is no question that he will have to take it to a machine shop to have it line bored. But most shops will want to bore the cylinders while they are at it and mill the deck whether it needs it or not. By the time he is done with the machine shop tab and a set of oversized pistons, he may have more in the engine than the vehicle is worth. Unless someone just wants to plunk $3,000 in a 6 cylinder engine, I have never seen real reason to line bore a 6 cy engine. If the block has been hot enough to warp the line bore, the deck will be crooked too. Another option that I would explore is buy a good running engine engine and installing it as is. Possibly I'm wrong, but I don't think they guy really wants to spend the money a machine shop rebuild would cost.
I do a lot of hillbilly fixes and they work. If I have bell mouthed valve guides, I see nothing wrong with reaming them straight, knurling them, reaming them to spec and then honing them a little to polish them. Valve stems have to be within spec because there is no fix for worn valve stems. But I have an old 645 Sioux that will reface them, dress the tip and champher the tip. It even does rocker arm tips.
