Guess we'll have to give this cadaver a shot with the paddles,
thought it was dead, but no, it just keeps raising it's head.
You can set a rivet head cold as was done on these
frames at the factory, if all of the parts of the
rivet are cold, the shank will fill the hole
completely before the head is formed.
You can set a rivet head hot, if all of the parts of
the rivet are hot, as was done in the youtube video
linked to last year or the way the iron work was
assembled in the last century, the shank will
completely fill the hole before the head is formed.
You can not set the rivet properly if the formed head is hotter
than the shank, the formed head may look pretty but the shank
will not fill the hole. Not filling the hole is the problem with
using a threaded fastener. It is not possible to expand the
shank of a threaded fastener in the hole. The exception would
be as discusse months ago, a serrated bolt shank that is
slightly larger than the hole, and that would not give 100%
contact as a properly set rivet does.
If you clamped the rivet in the frame cold, then heated the
shank to form a head only the very end closest to the formed
head inside the frame will get hot and the shank will not fill
the hole. Any one that has formed a piece of steel with heat in
their bench vice knows that the hottest part of the metal is the
most plastic and will yield first.
A simple non-destructive test of tightness for a rivet is a ring
test. If the shank has filled the hole, then when you rap the
factory head of the rivet it will 'ring' with a sharp metallic
sound, which you not only hear but can feel with your hand. A
lower pitch, dull or dead return indicates a loose or improperly
set rivet shank. Try it on your frame with a good rivet and the
bolt next to it.
And that's the truth....raspberrys.........
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL
Last edited by Denny Graham; 03/15/2014 4:12 PM.
