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#991434 12/08/2013 10:54 PM
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My next project on my '52 half-ton will be refacing the gauges. I have found lots of information about how to take them apart, apply new stickers, paint, and reassemble. But, very little information about removing them. I am 6' tall and 200 lbs. and I do not see anyway that I can get up in there and get those clusters out. Can anyone give me any tips and tricks?

daveboy


'52 Chevy 1/2 ton running original gear
Joined: Sep 2003
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Do you have the seat out? Each gauge is held by four nuts. Not hard, but it is a little tight in there. Removing the seat makes a lot of differance.


1951 Chevy 3100
Some days you get the bear. Some days the bear gets you.
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'Bolter
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Removing the seat and frame helps a great deal. You can also remove the floor shift if equipped (make sure trans is in neutral), you can also remove the pedals only held in with two bolts. If you remove the radio grill you have good access to the speedo remove it and the remove the cluster. It is also a good idea to disconnect the battery so you don't contact any of the live connections under the dash. Good luck!

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Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
Moderator: Welcome Centre, Southern Bolters, Legion Hall
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....and I recommend using a nut driver to remove the nuts.


1937 Chevy Pickup
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I'd rather walk and carry a Chevy hub cap than ride in a Ferd.
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extra lights and mirrors...


Give me ambiguity
or give me something else
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Regarding the brake and clutch pedals, I press them down and from under the hood, clamp visegrips on them to hold them down.

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'Bolter
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I took out that center grill (radio speaker area) and the glove box. The more holes the better.


It's easier to get forgiveness than permission!
1946 1/2-Ton Chevy
1953 Chevy 3/4-ton Factory Stakebed
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Yeah if you take the speaker grille out, things get a lot easier, just take the speedo out first, the gauges next, and install in reverse order. You may have to get down on the floor and deal with the clutch pedal jammed into your neck for a while, it's been a while I don't exactly remember. I do know I had to do it 3 times because I couldn't find a new oil pressure gauge, or a new temp gauge that would work.

Last edited by brokenhead; 12/09/2013 2:25 AM.
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" It is also a good idea to disconnect the battery "Brad Allen....
I wonder what would happen if voltage was accidentally put on the
fuel gauge going to the fuel tank .... and what if the tank wasn't grounded good ....

I'm 70 yrs old 6 foot 240 lbs , I sat in seat and took both gauges out by feel . took speedometer out first , then had much
more room ....when I replace them I'm adding enough wire to help removing next time....I replaced the amp gauge with a volt meter ,I put the amp decal on , I'll know its a volt meter...both meters look like new ....


" STUCK IN THE '50'S "
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Well, thanks for the replies so far. My chosen vocation is working on production office equipment (large copiers and printers). Yet, I don't think I have ever seen anything that appeared so hard to remove. I got up under there today and sprayed a little penetrating oil on the studs to loosen things up whenever I get a little braver.

I did learn a valuable lesson today while looking up under there. Anytime I am going to break any electrical connections I will always disconnect the battery. But, today I was only going to look around and see how difficult my next project would be, so no reason to disconnect the battery (I thought). As I was looking around under there, squirming, twisting and rolling around...somehow my shoulder pushed that foot starter down. Seeing how the old girl was in first gear, she lurched forward about two feet before I could twist away from that starter pedal. Scared the crap out of me! If by some chance that switch would have been on, and considering the torque this girl makes in first gear, and the fact that I was lying down with my feet hanging out the passenger door with no way to get up very quickly, and the fact that she fires right up with no hesitation...there is no telling where my truck would have wound up with my broken and twisted legs a result of my door having hit something and slammed down against them!!!!! There is no way that I could have got up and stopped this truck. As it was, my bumping that starter only resulted in her rolling a couple of feet and scaring the heck out of me.
Battery will be disconnected EVERY time I crawl under there from now on!!!!!


'52 Chevy 1/2 ton running original gear
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Bifocals or trifocals add another dynamic to this adventure!!

I never thought of clamping the clutch pedal down, or even removing the speaker grille for that matter. I'll have to remember these things as mine also have to come out at some point.


Rich
1947 Loadmaster
1947 Chev. Loadmaster
1959 Chev. Viking 40

Life is short--eat dessert first!
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I asked this a few months ago. Truckernix suggests to use brass knurled nuts. I purchased some from the local big box lumber store. I haven't used them yet but they look like they will be easier to work with. Earlier post on this subject.


It's a small world, but I wouldn't want to paint it.
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Thanks for telling us that story. Glad you were not hurt. I will be removing my gauges soon and have learned a lot from these guys who have been there, done that. Good luck, Steve

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Yes for sure remove the speaker grill. Remove the steering wheel?


Craig

My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear
My truck ....... Respect The Rust
If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.

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