The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Replacing Stomp Starter With a Button

Getting tired of stomping the floor starter on my 49. Is it a big job to change to a keyed or push button starter? Six cylinder - 12 volt system.

No it is easy. Put in the starter. Add a wire to the ignition switch. Run to a push button(clamp on horn button will work) Run wire from button to starter. Done. Push button to start. Not too difficult. No need for a spring type key switch. You could use a dash mounted push start switch if you wanted it to look nice and clean. I think there was one on the GMC truck of the same vintage? There was one on my 50 Olds so there was some parts around. But that horn button is easy and no one will know what it does.

I did that same thing to my '38. The button is on the dash to the left of the steering wheel.
I also added a hidden kill switch that disconnects power to the coil.

I guess I would have to change the starter. Don't know if I could modify the one I am using.

Yes, you will need to find a 6V solenoid starter, assuming your flywheel is still the 139 tooth one. Start saving and good luck in your search.

You want to remove THE coolest part on these trucks? Blasphemy comes to mind, but that may be too harsh. LOL.

I agree. Its also a great anti-theft device. But in April I broke my right ankle and its still sore. Stomping the starter does not help. Stomping should not be necessary frankly as I have seen youtube videos and the driver just puts their foot on the floor button and it starts. Got me to thinking maybe I am stomping hard because my return spring is too strong.

The "stomp" aspect of a foot-activated starter is either due to a driver having a bad mood, or having an mean and angry personality, or having a silly notion that stomping the starter will make up for a weak starting system (worn-out starter or small-gauge battery cables).

All that is needed is a light push.

and/or the pivot points need lubricating

Bill

If you switch to a solenoid-type starter and a push button, use a HEAVY DUTY push button. The current draw of the pull-in winding on a GM type solenoid is about 50 amps for a fraction of a second, and it will fry a low current push switch in a very short time.
Jerry

Pivot points are well lubed. Always have been. Spring is the cause possibly.

Stick with it Sedgewick, we don't want to lose even one more foot starter. I'll bet you can work on it to make it easier to step on. Or you can drive something else until you get healed up.

carry a stick along or use your crutch to push the button

Bill

It might be as simple as cleaning the contact in the switch, or it may be worn and need replacement.

You have all convinced me. I will do all I can to keep it. Still think it might be the return spring but will look at all other things.

The return spring needs to be just strong enough to hold the drive gear away from the flywheel gear when at rest.

If you do want to go with a key start send me a pm.

I've kept all my floor starters as just about every starter failure i've had turned out to be the solenoid. And it is a pretty good theft deterent, most of the younger croud have no idea what that's all about.

The foot starter is one of the biggest charms of having this vintage of truck. Its a really cool feature and makes for lively conversation.

If you decide to change from manual foot start to a push button start.
The Hydra-Matic truck has a solenoid starter.
Here is a 1954 Early 1955 Chevrolet truck wiring diagram that includes the Hydra-Matic push button start wiring.(dashed lines)
Diagram
But you have to use a beefy switch & wire for the 6 volt amperage.
Like this one. # 1996055

There is also a neutral safety switch which you could hook up to the clutch pedal so the starter would not fire unless the pedal was pushed in.
You really wouldn't need that though.
1950-1954 Chevrolet Neutral Safety Switch NOS # 1997845
The Hydra-Matic neutral safety switch is controled by the shifting linkage.

Thanks,

I have had a couple of starters that either would not turn or would do so intermittently, cleaning the contact and replacing button switch on top of starter fixed the problem. The starter contact sometimes developes a groove in the surface so a new
Switch sometimes will cure that. The contact also may develop some corrosion from time and arcing. Another item would be if cab rot has let the cab shift to where stomping the starter and bending floorboard is the only way you can get full contact between button and starter contact.
With my 38 I often just reach in with my hand and push starter pedal that way I can use my thumb on gas pedal at same time. It doesn't have to be pushed real hard. No seats is the reason for not just climbing in and using conventional foot method.

I think the floor starter button is one of the really cool features of these trucks. Beautiful simplicity. Not mention its one less electrical device to quit on me.

Walt Williams
La Verkin, UT

Can a remote starter be attached to the starter so you can start the engine without having to press the foot starter?
Makes setting the points easier if you can.

Paul, the foot starter does mechanical as well as electrical work, the only way to "remote" it would be to change to a key start solenoid, different starter ... but if you just want to bump the engine while working under the hood, it's common and easy to use a large screw driver or other pry tool between the button lever on the starter and the floor to activate the starter

Bill

Here is a Cut-away view of starter motor drive & Mechanical starter linkage--- scroll down to view picture.
Like red58 said, You have to use a pry tool between the starter lever arm and return spring and pry it over to activate starter.
Or possibly clamp a vise-grip pliers to the end of the starter lever arm and apply downward force to pliers to activate starter.
Safety Note: Make sure the truck is in neutral.