The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts head removal

I am still trying to start my 1954 6400--numbers confirm it is a 261. did all the recommended steps with kroil, plugs, wires, etc and rebuilt carb. then when I pulled the rocker-arm cover off for a second time, one valve was stuck, so it was recommended to remove head. I organized everything, but am currently unable to get head loose. Any tips? I read one idea to bolt the exhaust/intake manifold back on and pull it, but I don't have a lift. other ideas? where should I pry and how hard and what tool is recommended?

Also, the book does not mention taking off the lower water hose--is it the water pump? do I need to remove water pump?

thank you for input
Louis

After removing the rocker-arm assembly, how many head bolts did you remove?

Tim
I removed 18 head bolts in the same order that the 1954 shop manual showed to tourque.

about how heavy is the head--should I be able to pick-it up myself?
Louis

You should get a friend to help, its a good lift with the reach that is involved.

how about reconnecting the intake/exhaust manifold and using a come-along connected overhead? or, can I just hammer on a piece of wood to break the head/block seal? first one, so I am open to ideas? thank you.

I'd try a big hard rubber mallet/hammer or the block of wood.

or a good stiff putty knife will sometimes work if tapped good with a hammer. I've done it many times without any damage. Once it pops loose the party starts! They are heavy so watch the back.

Did you try to free the valve once you took the valve cover off?

I sprayed kroil on the valve and it never came loose--should I have tried freeing the valve before removing the head? I read that the valves can stick after a long time sitting and then bend a rod.

is there a particular good spot for the putty knife for least chance in causing damage?
thank you

before putty knife I'd use a 4x4 block of wood and big hammer to try to shift one end of the head sideways. As soon as it moves any it'll be quite free from there on.

If resorting to the putty knife put it between the layers of the head gasket and straight in. However you do it you will risk nicking or raising a burr on the block or head. Could be gently dressed with a file if you do, not ideal though.

Grigg

....isn't there guide pins on both sides? Been a while since I took some off but if there is it won't slide.

...and while we are on the subject, I've actually stuck a piece of wood in one of the intake/exhaust port holes and gave a big yank on it and broke them loose. Sometimes you just have to work with what you got!!!

I still don't have it, but will try again this weekend.

one more question, if you don't mind: once i have the head off--exactly what should I do next? take the head to the machine shop and....? Also, should I go further inot the engine, like rings on the pistons?

thank you so much for all advise--it is so great to be able to ask questions.

Hum... dowel pins I don't remember, if present my wood block advice isn't any good.

Grigg

Unless you can get in a position to where you can drive the block of wood upwards. Also a lever out of wood as suggested by Achipmunk, stuck in one of the exhaust/intake ports and a good yank up on it. Those are the 2 best ways, IF YOU HAVE ALL BOLTS OUT!! That has usually been my problem on lots of things: One bolt still in somewhere.
I don't think I would like using a hoist on the manifold, it would be easy to crack or worp it.

A stuck valve will bend a PUSHROD, always check before turning over.

....if its THAT hard to try break loose double check for bolts. You many have one covered with sludge and just can't see it. I've seen some tough ones but this sounds 'unusually tough".

In the future, use an old shade tree trick I like- - - -loosen all the head bolts about two turns, maybe a little more, then crank up the engine and goose the throttle a couple of times. The head pops itself loose!
Jerry

I never knew heads could stick. However, I always did what Jerry describes. I learned it from watching old timers almost 60 years ago.

another trick is
turn engine over with a spanner on the crank until one cyl is coming up on compression when the piston is about half way up the bore , fill the cylinder with oil or lube of some sort and replace the spark plug ,
then continue to carefully turn engine with spanner or socket and breaker bar
and the hydraulic force created in the cylinder will break the head free,,

I used a block of wood,and a hammer,to TRY to free-up 3 stuck valves on my 261,(after 3 bent pushrods)! P.O. took it "for a spin",without letting it warm-up enough,after sitting idle for over a year! It just took too much effort,to try and free the valves,(I had to use a pry-bar to bring them "Back"),so I opted to have the head boiled, magnafluxed,and new hardened valves and seats,to accomodate unleaded gasoline. The origional valves/seats were designed for leaded/high-octane gas, This new "stuff" will cause more carbon build-up. Hope this helps.

by the way, I did pull the head off using a come-along tied to a beam on the carport. it popped off quite easily. The head is at a local machine shop (still flat and no cracks) getting new intake valves. I will see if the engine runs before having the seats machined, right? I don't see much build up or wear at top of cylinders

I also took off the hood latch plate, radiator, and water pump to clean the mud and grease. I have a question on the lifters--what should be done prior to replacing the side cover? thanks for help.

I'd put a smear of cam break in lube on each lobe while I had it open. That way you have protected the cam and lifters as best you can during your engine re-start...cheap insurance!

Mike B