The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Tool Chest Simple engine hoist problem

I got a pretty good deal on this 1 ton HF engine hoist. Hoist plus 2 load levelers for $100 from a guy on CL.

It wasn't a dealbreaker, but I was very annoyed that the seller didn't tell me that the ram was replaced with an 8 ton ram without the correct foot plate.

I'd like to hear your ideas on how to make this thing stable.
I rolled my eyes when the seller said to just use it like it is.

Hoist

correct ram and footplate

flat foot plate - unstable

another view

That's not unstable, it is unusable. He got the harbor freight flat bottom one. You should not have bought it BUT, there is an easy fix. Buy a new ram with the ears.($49 on sale minus 20% coupon from any car/truck magazine or flier = $40) Can't weld to that cheap casting bottom cap. Under load, that thing will slide off there and kill whoever is standing next to it!!!!! Glad I could help
P.S. A pretty girl could take it back and exchange.

Nope, the ears were never on this ram. HF sells a ram without ears and one WITH ears.

Yes, I was editing when you posted. see my post again. I did look at HF and realized it just now. Sorry

If you can fabricate and have some steel, you could make a pivoting plate for it that would capture the cylinder base.

For $40? You can sell it on craigslist for $40. or $35 or $30

The new HF 3 ton rams are $40. I have an 8 ton ram on it now. Do I need a 3 ton ram or an 8 ton?

I have a 2 ton cherry picker which works fine. I checked the ram size but the sticker is worn off, BUT the HF 2T picker has a 3T ram so a 3T ram is good. $40 - 20%= $32. What does your furthest back pin hole say? 2T?

It's a 1 ton hoist. Sticker says 1 ton. Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll try to sell the 8 ton ram.

All that suicidal idiot did was stick a floor jack in.

Keep the floor jack for other uses and order a ram correctly configured and sized for this application.

I would be concerned that he replaced a 3T with 8T and stressed other components. Check for bending.

Dan Bentler

I was going to post the same advice/warning.

Lugnutz: If that rear hole says 1T you are still OK to use a 3T or 8T or 50T ram. A bigger ram does not put stress on it, that's just how much it will handle (or force it will apply). The load you put on the hook is what "stresses" the unit. The rest of the lift will only handle 1T and is big enough for all engine/tranny combos or half a truck. If you try to lift more than 1T, the weak point will not be the ram. If you lift 1T or less, a big ram will not stress anything. The harbor freight 1T has a 3T ram as you probably know. The Cherry Picker structure should be built with a 2X or 3X safety factor also.

Thanks Dan,
Yeah, I checked the hoist for damage and I really don't think there is any. I think he swapped in the 8 ton ram because he had it laying around or got it for free. I'm gonna get another ram, probably a 3 ton and save all the headache of trying to weld ears onto the bottom of this one. Shoot, I might even come close to breaking even if I can sell the 8 ton ram for $25 on CL.


Bartamos, I agree with you. I think Dan was just worried that the PO had swapped in an 8 ton ram so he could lift something bigger than the limits this 1 ton lift was designed for.

I'm sure I could save $5 or $10 and fabricate something, but it's not worth the hassle. Plus, when I go to sell the thing, the next owner will not want it if it's cobbled up.

My neighbor just got a 2 ton collapsable from HF for $119.00. Might want to save headaches and crush wounds and buy one.

His is foldable also and in good shape. He got a good deal with the levelers. Just needs a ram.

I went by HF today but they were out of the 3 ton ram with the bottom ears. I got a raincheck.

I believe they have rams at Northern Tool also if you don't want to wait on HF raincheck.

Northern tool , same ram $23 higher!!! Almost double.

If you can't get an exchange at your local HF (I would try this first), you could buy the correct ram and sell the flat bottom one to help recoup the cash.
I definitely wouldn't use it as it is and I'd buy the exact ram as what the hoist originally comes with.
You could buy just the clevis foot of the ram (it unscrews from the ram body)... but as cheap as the rams are, I wouldn't mess with that.
As mentioned, you could go overkill on the ram capacity but still be limited to the structure. One ton is good for lifting an engine and transmission.
I like the levelers! I need to get one of those.
I hope you can simply exchange the ram... I think with that, the 100 bucks for the hoist and two levelers isn't so bad. HF has the hoists for $179 alone. Good luck!
Jerry

The 8 ton ram is too scuffed to exchange (unless the clerk has no conscience). I plan to sell the 8 ton ram to recoup some of the cash. If the raincheck takes too long, then I might try to exchange it for an 8 ton with the correct foot.

I just bought the correct 3 ton ram. Gee . . . I spend more time repairing my tools than working on my truck! That's kinda backwards. I say this because I also spent time repairing the drain plug on my new (bought used from same CL seller) 21 gallon 3HP compressor.

BUT NOW . . . I get to use my sandblast cabinet again with better air pressure . . . I see some progress in my near future.

Update: I installed the proper ram. Hah! Now I gotta sell the 8 ton flat bottom ram unless I can find some other use for it. Any ideas?

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/tt269/fastboatman29212/hoist/0120131310.jpg

2 ton, 3 ton, 8 ton....means little. Just get the same bore, rod, and stroke for your replacement cylinder. It's the pressure and application that DETERMINE TONNAGE.

And structural integrity.......

Congrats on getting your tools to working order! You're ready to ROCK now!
I hope in the long haul of it, you still managed to save a few bucks versus buying new... that's what buying used is all about.
I bought a Craftsman Air Compressor for $50 off CL.
6 HP 33 GAL, 8.6 scfm at 40 psi, 6.4 scfm at 90 psi, 135 psi max.
It was "slow to build pressure". I took a chance on it as I needed a larger compressor.
I found the problem after taking it apart and bought a new piston, sleeve and gasket as a kit... another $50. Plus I painted it.
Result, I got about a $400 compressor that's like new for $100.
I certainly don't mind buying used if it saves me some money.

Jerry

...to add to Jerry's comment. Back when Sears had a repair shop at their store they often had tools that had been "repaired" for half price but full warrantee. I purchased a nice 1/2 hp bench grinder, about 1976 for $69 (regular price $129) It was pricey for the times but today, 36 years later it still runs great. What a buy!

I sold my 8 ton hoist today for $20. I paid about $38 for the new 3 ton hoist and new bolt. Not bad after all. I ended up spending $18 total for a NEW 3 ton ram that is correct for my hoist. Total outlay was $118 for the hoist.

Compressor works fine now too, but I sure wish I had a bigger one.

Jay, thats called "Wheeling and Dealing" around my house! Every dollar you saved is more for the pickup. Simply no other way to to look at it

ever use a come along to pull engine, actually you might need two...work on pulling engine out of my International under a shade tree.......sort of slow though

Not an engine, but I pulled a car and a truck onto a tow dolly several times. Sure beats pushing. Waaaaay better than pushing it onto the dolly and then OVER THE FRONT EDGE of the dolly!!!! LOL!!! That was a wasted 3 hours of my life trying to correct THAT situation. LOL!

In the old days, I pulled an engine with a come-along (a true shade-tree mechanic job). Even a cheap come-along has 1,200 lb capacity (ours were rated to pull a small vehicle - 4,000+ lbs).

We got the truck out of the way, and the engine lowered quickly. We made sure no one (and nothing) ever got under the come-along. And, we made sure the come-along cables and end-clamps were in good shape.

Used a come-along many times. At home we had a piece of log chain wrapped around a big Oak limb that we hung the come-along, or later the hand operated "chain-fall". We've put many engines in there but the right front fender had to be only about an inch from the tree itself.
That log chain is still around that tree to this day but has about 4" grown over it now. I need to take a pick of that! How the engines we built there in the sand ran was a miracle but we'd build'em then go to town and outrun the "factory boys".

These days I use a 6 ton overhead crane to pull engines. We're just about to pop a 6.4L cab off a F**d and yank the motor for a spare. We've been having issues with the 6.4L. Some of them like to self destruct.

For years, my dad and I used a chain hoist on the limb of a shade tree. We pushed many a car and truck under it.
The only problem besides all the dirt, (a sheet of cardboard was our best friend) was centering the engine back into position at time of installation. There was a lot of pushing, prying, busted knuckles and swearing!
With my concrete slab and the crane, "Hey, Jack..." (My Si impression)! I have much more freedom.
Dad would've loved the crane!

Jerry

Along the same topic. I plan to use a hoist to remove the cab of my 65. Doors will be off and cab gutted. I will do it outside in the yard.

To roll the chassis out from under the cab, should I build a ramp for the rear tires to roll over the crane legs? Some folks dig a ditch and put the legs in the ditch and lay plywood over the top.

I have a couple of good strong trees. Maybe I should use them with an overhead lift?

After I get the frame out from under the cab, I plan to set the cab down on a preconstructed wooden framework so i will have access to all sides for the bodywork.

I used my HF Crane for this too, by making a swivel wooden beam mounted to my hoist. It worked like a champ and was inexpensive.
rolling the crane with the cab lifted up was nice. I made a wooden cab dolly to set the cab on and it's presently sitting in my garage as I work on the interior.
Let me know if you're interested in this and I'll provide more detail.
Jerry

Jay, no need to build ramps or dig ditches. Just call me and a couple other bolters and we'll pick it up. Couple guys on each side will do it. (maybe have a 2/6 handy)...thats what I did to put the panel body on and off the frame. On one ocassion THREE of us did it. (of coarse I took the light end and my son in law is 6'7"

What ya say, I'm up for it.

I re-read your post... you said "yard".
I had a concrete driveway to roll my hoist with the cab, away from the chassis.

If you don't have the extra help, you might throw some 3/4" sheets of plywood down to put the hoist on to allow you to roll it back.
Just a thought...

Jerry

P.S.
I need neighbors like Alvin!

Jerry,
Remember me? Jay, your cuz? Both born in '59?
I presently have the old sheet metal that I removed from the bed under the truck.

Yep, I'm literally a "shade tree" mechanic.

The idea of lifting the cab is appealing. I do remember your swivel beam method and that is my current plan. Plywood under the hoist won't work as well due to the way my yard is set up. (Too much to explain! )

Helicopter is my 2nd option but I'm willing to hear other ideas.