The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts Engaging dump bed

Anybody know the shift procedure/method needed to engage the dump bed of my 63 c60 ? It has the dual-piston dump bed..... I've not been able to de-code it. The truck has sat for 5 years but is running good now.... I think the bed was working when parked last.... Any help appreciated

Hy Red63, Engine running transmission in neutral, there should be a lever/cable control to move/pull to engage the p.t.o. (foot on clutch before you try to move anything). Once you have the p.t.o. engaged there should be another lever/cable control to move/pull to put the pump in raise mode. Usually the hoist control has a neutral in the center, with raise on one side of neutral, and lower on the other side of neutral, hope that helps.

Bummer, 3B, it didnt work i did all as you mentioned and still no bed raising. The pto-pull knob pulls out and the gear lever moves ok but it aint engaging nothing.

Check to see if the PTO shaft is turning when you "engage" the lever. It's possible somebody disconnected the linkage or cable underneath. There should be a lever that moves on the PTO gearbox.

If the shaft turns but no lift, check the oil level in the cylinder(s) or reservoir.
Jerry

Once in a while my set screw lets go at the pump. The shaft will turn but the pump won't,
Scott

Hy Red63, did the p.t.o. shaft spin after you moved the p.t.o. knob? Is the p.t.o. shaft still connected to the pump? Did the hoist control lever/cable move a lever on the pump when activated? Can you locate an identification plate on the pump or hoist cylinder? Obviously we need a hose between the pump and cylinder for the pressure and return of the hydraulic fluid, and some hydraulic fluid to move! So you'll have to do some more investigating, and get back to us with what you find.

A.
Check that and also first you should check to make sure the system has hydraulic oil in it.
B.I seriously doubt there is a set screw on the pump or at the PTO either for that matter. The u-joints use a woodruff key to keep the shafts held together so they rotate a one.
C. Next check the levers/cables that connect to the PTO and pump valve. Make sure they are attached and working freely. Old cables can often be corroded/encrusted.etc to the point of not moving at all. Also be sure the outside casing of any cable properly secured to the surrounding and attaching parts so that the casing doesn't "bow" instead of allowing the inner wire to move.
D. If all that is in good order your problem lies deeper as in the pump or PTO itself.

If you still need help you can e-mail me directly. Good Luck.

Thanks fella's... I will get out there and give it another shot, now knowing more
to look for... I will be back in touch. Thanks

On my '63 c60 there is a pull knob on the left of the dash, under the light knob. Pull that out and it engages the pto. The lever to lift and lower the bed is on the ground, coming through the floorboard. It will be the lever farthest right, next to the handbrake. You pull that lever back towards the seats and the bed lifts, if you push it forward the bed will lower. Put the lever in the middle and that keeps the bed in 1 place.

Got her figured out... It was the big knob on right of dash panel.... Pull it out to engage pto, depress clutch, give it some gas and pull shift lever.... The bed won't budge until the the engine rev's.... Then it's ready to lift... Wow, it sounds pretty rough but at least it work's.... I'll put some fresh hydraulic fluid in and we should be good to go

Hy Red63, I'm glad you figured it out.

Be extremely careful when adding fluid. If you need to raise the bed to add it, be sure to block it securely before going under there. Also, it's a good idea to leave the plug out the first time you let it back down. That way, if you overfill it, the excess fluid has a way to escape without blowing the seals out of your hoist.

Rich'sToys is essentially correct although his method is wrong. There should be a plug on the cylinder near the top (rod end) where fluid can be added. By leaving the plug out as Rich has suggested you'll blow air and oil out all over the place. The idea of cycling it several time is correct to remove the air but the plug needs to be one which allows for the escape of air or something as simple as a pipe plug with a small hole drilled through it and a cotter pin placed in the hole. This allows the air out but little oil and keeps some of the dirt out. Not the best situation but better than a big belch of oily air passing.
And be sure that all ther fittings are tight and not leaking first or the air will come right back. This applied to a closed system only. If your hydraulic system has a reservoir then allow for a 20% expansion and air displacement so the solid plug is OK in lieu of a breather cap.

I guess I wasn't thinking about air in the system. I've heard of cases where the bed was partially raised to allow access to the plug. The raised bed allowed the cylinder to be overfilled. When the plug was put back in, the excess fluid had nowhere to go and took the seals out.

If you can get at the plug without raising the bed, that is the better (and safer) way to go.

I defer to Dave, as he is far more knowledgeable about these things than I am. I was just relating an experience I had heard about.

Is the hydraulic pump directly connected the the PTO or is there a PTO drive shaft to the pump?

If there is a drive shaft...check the U-joints. They get over looked a lot.

Good Luck,

GMCPic

I believe I can get to the resovoir from under the truck without lifting the bed. I will try...... Also, the pto is shaft driven. I will check those u joints as noted... Thanks for the great help