The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop recomended oil 6 cylinder

I have a 1950 4100 the engine has a little more than 9,000 original miles on it. I have plans to install the oil canister. I would like some input on oil recomendations.

Why oh why do you have to bring this subject up again. Just use what ever YOU like as you will get answers from one end of the spectrum to the next. Just make sure you use one with adequate zinc, actually it is the phosphate or phosphorous, (the P part of ZDDP) is what you are after. The zinc portion, which is what they were originally after, was for corrosion protection, when it was discovered the P portion was a very effective extreme pressure additive. However too much is not good either. I can't remember exactly what the minimum number is, but there is an article by Bob Olree, a lubrication type engineer from GM who explains it very well. And just in case you are wondering who he is, I have read several other articles that reference HIS article and state that he is virtually without peer in this field. You might do well to look it up, its easy to find, since this is a burning topic with vintage engine people, and is actually on this forum somewhere. Where you will also find people with absolutely no qualfications in this field disputing the expert. So anyway good luck.

20

Any good, modern 10w30 will be fine. Don't worry about it.

Kurt

Chevron supreme 10-30 or 10-40 if you have to have multi vis oil.
It has good EP additives.

Doesn't ANYONE ever use the search feature? I know, I know...it's lousy for sure but I still am able to find things.

Suggestion: why don't one of you clever computer whizzes but up a FAQ section to make the search area easier to manipulate? Stuff like engine numbers, engine color, tire info, where can get____, and oil questions and more.

Boyle...I'm not blaming you but after so many years it gets a bit long in the tooth.

Off topic but here's how I search. I go to google and type this in the search bar site:www.stovebolt.com oil That will search the entire forum and site for the word oil. Works pretty well

Dave & Others,

In a perfect world, what would you have wanted to use as a search criteria to find useful information in response to the first post in this thread?

Or, if you use a Google search of Stovebolt.com, what would you search on/for (the search criteria)?

53 moneypit.... Thanks I've been wanting to say that for weeks!

I'd use "what oil", including quotes, in any of the 3 search links on any forum page here - the google search Chad uses is what happens from the topmost Search link above ["custom google search"] - all provide enough reading for anyone

Bill

or, try a regular Search:

+oil +recommend

(and, correctly spell "recommend")

compare results using your suggestion and mine Tim, problem with using plus instead of quotes is it gets all posts that use those 2 words, which will also be found in discussions of transmissions and gearboxes and totally random discussions

Bill

Keep in mind that some of us country folks are still on dial up. I use the search sometimes but it takes forever and I usually give up. It doesn't really bother me that much to see a question that I've seen before. I can always pass it by if I'm not interested. That feature works just as well on dial up as on high speed.

Bill, I'd use a version of your search:

"what oil" -filter

Or, a different version of my search:

+oil +recommend -transmission -gear -random

<CLICK>


From the head Geek: "The configurable options for search are extremely limited"

Tim "recommend oil" would work too
moneypit, what's surprising is how many continuously repeated questions are answered in tech tips .... we could maybe add a few, like the ones you list

Bill

Grumpy old men!
As jfnar says "It doesn't really bother me that much to see a question that I've seen before. I can always pass it by if I'm not interested."

Cut the kid some slack. He only joined 10 posts ago and it can take a while to figure out your way around here.
Some of the replies to my early posts were pretty discouraging but, I stuck it out and have learned things not available anywhere else.
So, thanks grumpy guys.

I am no oil expert but Fischer Oil in Long Beach,CA Makes a "Classic" 20/50 that is popular with old car folks here in SoCal. I have used it in all my old cars for years, new engines and well worn ones.
I am sure that other, probably major companies make a zinc rich oil for the flat tappet cam engines too.
They told me that it is safer to use an oil factory blended with the zinc rather than use an additive because too much zinc is as bad as too little, also that diesel lube oil contains the good anti wear stuff too but also has a bunch of additives not necessary for gasoline engines.
562 437 6048 Ray Fischer Oil

I sure wish I could find the report(s) concerning oil weights, and operating oil temps. All I can remember is 15/40 is not even close to its optimal operating range in one of these engines, while 20/50 would be much more suited to an all out race engine running extremely hot. 10/30 was the oil that would most likely be operating in its designed range in one of these engines, however this is only speculation as I have absolutely no idea what the oil temperature runs in one of these things. But I do know I ran across several technical articles gave all the specifics. So if you get bored you could look that up. Much of the "racing" oil is at least 15/40 with little or no detergent. (the detergent messes with the film strength) and isn't really appropriate for everyday street use. Hence the "racing" prefix. I did a fairly thorough search, made phone calls to several oil company engineering departments. Whatever the case I stand by my original statement, that this fella will get answers from one end of the spectrum to the next, with one consistent element, everyones car runs. So while I am by no means an expert, I did learn enough to know the EPA doesn't care about our cars, and most likely are trying to figure out a way to take them away from us and crush them as we speak. But since I work for a government agency, I know that they will need to have meetings and discuss things for at least the next 120 years, spend at least 2.7 billion dollars in testing the effects of zinc poisoning on the testicular development of mosqitoes and the amazonian tree frog. Then promptly forget about it.

Boyle,

In answer to you original question. Any oil will work well in your recently rebuilt engine that has already been broken in.

Almost all oils are made to the same specifications. Obviously, hot/cold viscosities differ and there are differences between gasoline engine oils and diesel engine oils - differences that are probably of minimal import for light truck engines.

Increased levels of ZDDP are only needed during break-in of a new cam and flat tappets (as would be the case in old GM straight six truck engines).

Here is a link to good quality oil recommended by Cam makers,
http://theoilwarehouse.com . Brad Penn is the old formula Kendall oil (the green stuff). Its still made with all the right additives and can be delivered right to your door.

Joe

I'll second that.

I don't really think it matters which brand of oil you use, although I do stick with name brand oils. I buy what is on sale. I might use synthetics on my newer vehicles, but for my older vehicles, I don't spend the extra for synthetics at all. Maybe I would if the engine were new, I drove it in the winter as a daily driver, trying to squeeze an extra 10th of a mile out of it, etc. I do believe that the Amsoil multi grade synthetic that I use in my tractor (I use for winter snow removal) does provide a more consistant viscosity.

As far as what weight to use....10w30 or 10w40 will work pretty good. A lot of people run Rotella 15-40 (as do I for some things). If your engine has lifters and they tend to get noisy after it is warmed up, then I would try a 20w50 or a straight 30. Without getting into discussions of viscosity, straight weights (in my opinion) do help for older engines.

Here is another good story on oils,
http://www.hotrodandrestoration.com..._source=Email&utm_medium=Enewsletter

Joe

Those must be some BIG skeeters

No they are regular size, that is why it is so expensive to study.