The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Tips On Removing Screws

I'm trying to remove the glove box assembly on my '59 and there are some phillips screws that I can't seem to pursuade to break loose. I'd like to save them if I can and fear I'll strip out the heads if I get too impatient.
I've tried inserting an old phillips screw driver and tapping the driver with a hammer to "shock" the threads grip, then I put my body weight into getting a good "bite"... no luck.
Any tips or tricks are appreciated!
Jerry

Penetrating oil is one tip that most would agree on. Try this too: "using your body weight to get a good bite" as before, tighten the screws just a bit. This gets them moving, but if you do slip, then the rounded part is on the tightening side of the philips slots, and not on the loosening side.

Hope this makes sense and helps!

Craig

Thanks Craig.
I didn't try any WD40, as the phillip screw heads are flanged and I didn't think the oil would get to the threads... won't hurt to try, anyway.
Tightening to break a thread grip is a different approach. If the threads of the screw are protruding beyond the female threads they're engaged in, those protruding threads could be a problem too. This is why a lot of hex screws snap off. Maybe I could get the penetrating oil to the other side... if I can find access.
Working the threads forward then back would certainly help.

Jerry

True about the back threads causing problems. Not so much on sheetmetal screws, but I know of a lot of farmers around here who will just tighten a bolt until it breaks rather than try to fight rusty bolts jamming in the nut.

Good luck with the glove box! I sent you a p.m. too.

Craig

Got the PM and reciprocated.

My recent experience in snapping screws is from the gas tank straps and seat. I can drill those out though and easily replace them since they're hex head. I don't know how special the phillips-head screws are for the glove-box, but I'd rather not have to find out if they're a hard to find item.
I'm also having trouble removing the door mirror screws!
Jerry

...and try some penetrating oil other than WD40. Try PB Blaster or Kroil or your favorite.

Bill

Thanks for the tip, Bill.
I reckon WD40 is to me, as duct tape to others...

Does Wally carry PB Blaster or will I need to visit FLAPS?

Jerry

Saw this over on the HAMB and it is the cats meow... at least I was purring after using it. Also after reading the Kroil vrs PB Blaster thread here I ordered some kroil and I find it hands down better than the PB I had tried up till now...

I was able to remove all the original bed/fender bolts without a single loss which was about 90% better than my past experience with similar bolts or screws on this truck. I gave the bolts several blasts of kroil over a week or two before tryng to remove them but the key for me was taking a small wire wheel to the exposed threads, then working the screw both ways. Tighten a touch more then loosen then tighten and hit with Kroil then loosen. The little tool worked great to bust things loose while turning.

rusty screw tool

Thanks CASO.
Experience is the best teacher... sometimes I have to learn more than once!
These glove box screws attach the hinge to the lid and to the dash. I won't be able to remove the dash side screws till the heater assembly is out.
hmmm...
You know, I could see the ends of the screws on the dash side where the lid screw ends were concealed. Maybe I should take out the heater and gain access to the screw heads from that end, instead. I would be ok with leaving the hinge to lid still attached for painting. At least the assembly would be removed from the dash, which is my objective here.
I'll find some Kroil... again, FLAPS?
I still have bed/fenders to contend with so I'll be travelling down your road. Your input is certainly appreciated!
Jerry

I think the Kroil is somewhat geographic in its availability, I just ordered it on line.
I believe I had my heater out when I pulled the GB door off (it's been a while) but if you get there the nice thing about that little home made tool is it works with what ever bit you need to use

LOL
I saw the link, clicked on it saw the picture and turned my head from one side to another. I'll have to take another look!
Jerry

In addition to the penetrating oils you might want to try an impact screwdriver. The hammer powered kind, not the air or battery powered ones. They usually have higher quality bits and can be had for $10-20. They work amazingly well for breaking screws loose.

Once loose, if the formerly exposed threads are hanging you up use lots of penetrating oil and move the screw in and out. If you take your time you can usually get them out.

Chuck

Yes Jerry its a WTF? kinda thing but rather than show it with a bit installed I thought I'd leave a bit of mystery to it. The impact chisel was already trashed and after trying a different bit extension wound up sacrificing a better quality one to the 'project'.
Prior to this I was using old (and new) bits to weld onto the stubborn screws or bolts that rust had claimed and was still busting half of them off and losing the screw to boot so when I saw the post on the HAMB I had to give it a shot.
Let me just add... it works way better than it looks!

the screws that hold the glovebox door hinge are not easy to get out, but easily replaceable - use a grinder to take the heads off, any impact type tool will just bounce and distort that wimpy lower dash flange, and getting at the back of them won't help much .... one tip for getting out rusted screws is to always first tighten them, especially when using the hammer type impact driver, one bop tightening frequently breaks them free

Bill

For phillips head screws:

Use a well-fitting, sharp edged screwdriver. There is a lot of variation in no. 2 screwdrivers the way they fit in the screw head, for example.

Use a drop of valve lapping compound in the screw head for a little extra grip.

TIGHTEN the screw slightly to break it loose before loosening. If the screw had been previously damaged during removal, you will be more likely to break it loose.

If all else fails, these are handy when used with a rivet gun:
https://www.ustool.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=1531 . It hammers the screw while you turn the wrench handle. It works similar to a hand hammer driver, but more controllable.

Dave Evans
52_3100

I'm seeing a lot of "tighten before loosen" comments, plus some interesting tricks and tools.
I also found a "trial sample" of kroil in my goody bag at work (I like to send off for free samples from magazines).
As a side note for my concern of having the correct screws, I got lucky and removed enough screws from a '58 parts truck to make a full set, in case I damage or have to resort to grinding off the problem screws on the '59.
Thanks guys, for all the suggestions!
I'll report back with some news... hopefully GOOD.
Jerry

a quick note on Kroil. I ordered a can back sometime ago when a bolter posted a two for one sale...... since then they send me a letter about every 6 months or so. This time they offered TWO 16.5 ounce cans for $17 including shipping. I just got mine last week. Also, this time it was the Sili-kroil which is the same penetrating oil but with a little silicone for lubrication. A few months ago the Aero-Kroil,straight penetrating oil, was on sale the same way. My nephew and I are now stocked up until the next sale.
Yep, its the best stuff out there as many many bolters will attest to and many many corporations.

The screws for the glovebox door are usually handy at Ace Hardware or go to Lowe's hardware section... just take your time and I think you'll find them there to.

Alvin,

Just so that I do not buy the stuff with silicone in it: the Aero-Kroil named-product still has no silicone in it?

Where did you see it on sale with free shipping?

Thanks,

Correct. Aero-Kroil does not have sili-cone in it.

Tim, the last sale paper I got was called the TITAN DEAL and was for Sili-Kroil WITH silicone.

Anyone wanting the Sili-Kroil, with some silicone in it, just call them up and ask for the TITAN Deal.

They had a "discount" on the stuff you want, Tim but it was still high. I'm sure I'll get another sale paper in the mail soon for just the straight penetrating oil "Aero-Kroil" pretty soon. When I do I'll post it so folks can call and get it. Once you do that you'll get their special deals by mail.

I know this is getting long but it may be beneficial to call them and ask if they have any other specials going on. I gave my paper to another guy to order him some but I'm sure you can find it if you google Kano Labratories.

Here you go.
http://www.kanolabs.com/

Thanks for the Link, Alvin.
I have a trial offered can of aero kroil coming soon!

Jerry

Alvin, didn't see any deals on their website currently. Please post a note letting us know when they run their next sale.

Thanks.

....the next time I get any "offers" I'll make a special post for it.... with numbers and the "deal".

I managed to get all but 2 screws out of my cab with a little penetrating oil and a Craftsman cordless drill. I set the drill on one of the lower torque settings and it acted like an impact wrench. Make sure the bit fits the screw and give it a shot. Some times it would take a minute or so but they would turn loose and back out. Most just shot right out once they started. A few were tight after the started moving. On those oil it and tighten it then back it out.

I have had good luck with Marvel lubricating oil on avarious screw removal. Need to keep adding and give it time to work, like overnight,

Those old clutch head screws are very difficult to remove when rusted. I found it easiest to take a dremel cutting disc & cut a slot deep into the head/ insert a large screwdriver give it a couple of whacks with a hammer/ then they twist right out.

Putting a little ATF on em never hurts either.

Of course, this method is only for those that are planning to replace the clutch screws, like I am.

I bought a can of Kroil some years ago. The compressed air portion came out and the oil was left in the can. Poop. I poked a hole in the can and now have in in a regular oil can. I like it better. It doesn't blow all over the place.

Kroil is good stuff

I removed some door hinges from an old parts truck and had to cut the sheet metal from the cab side to get them out!
With the hinges removed, I was able to hit the stubborn bolts with the kroil and those suckers came out!
I'm a believer in that stuff!
I can't wait to try it on those clutch heads... especially where the bed and fenders are concerned. I really want to reuse these screws.
Jerry

Jerry,

If you destroy the fender-to-bed clutch-head bolts, they are available in regular steel (and, I think, in stainless steel).

Though pricey, that's really good to know. Thanks Tim!
I went to our local Fastenal store to find some clutch head bits... You should've seen the confused looks.

For nasty bolts and screws, I first do the kroil thing and give it some time to work. If not I'll try some heat, the heat usually always works. Or you have to grind and drill. If its a stripped out hole for a sheet metal screw and you want it factory stock, you would need to weld it and redrill it. Another nonstock option is, pop rivet nuts, you can get em at harbor freight too. http://www.threadrite.com/pop_nuts/

Just read an interesting thread over on a Jeep forum. They have some data to back up a really cheap solution...50/50 acetone & ATF. Worked twice as well as Kroil according to the test. See it here...

Home made penetrant http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f7/best-rust-penetrant-ever-you-make-yourself-552838/

I plan on giving it a try. Lord knows I have plenty of 66 year old rusty nuts, bolts and screws to try it out on.