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I bought a 36 Chevy that used to be a 1.5 ton truck. The guy I bought it from wanted a pickup, as do I so he removed all the drive train and flatbed. The question I have is on the rear of the frame where the rear axle will mount it is perfectly straight. In other words their is no hump where the axle would mount under and have room to move up and down under. Has anybody else had this same issue and how did you handle it? Thanks for any input.

Lots of people discard the frame too and use something else like an S10. there are about as many ways to deal with it as there are trucks. Talk to some of the local ratrod or hotrod crowd, they should be able to steer you in the right direction.

You now know the difference between a 1/2 ton and 1 1/2 ton frames. You could lower the bed over the frame leaving less room inside the bed and still use what you have. It should be longer then the 1/2 ton as well. Graft on a different rear section if you wish.

Joe

Thanks Joe,
I am assuming this 1.5 frame is much beefier. I think the frame is like 7" tall. Not sure what the 1/2 ton frame is. This should be good for strengh. Joe you have a beautiful truck by the way. Do you have any idea what your truck weighs?
Thanks for the input

Excuse me for jumping in here but just as info my 37 weighs 2600 lb with a V8 but I also have fiberglass fenders and running boards. Weighed it on/at a truck stop.

Thanks Alvin. That is a little lighter than I thought it might be. Do you know about how tall your stock frame rail is?

I used a big frame on my 40. I cut a c-notch for axle movement.
It is a very stout frame, approx. 7" deep if I remember. I also welded a 2x3 retangular tube on the top of the frame, over the area I notched. I probably wouldn't have had to, but it made sense to replace what I had cut out on the bottom of the frame.

36_chev, the chassis on my 37 is 5 3/4" measured where the cab and bed meet. The END of my chassis where the rear bumper brackets bolt on is only 3 5/8".

Hope this is what you need.

My '37 weighs 3200 with full tank of fuel and one person. It also has fiberglass fenders and a lot of sound absorbing material in the cab, 250 with auto trans, oak boards in the bed.

Joe

At Superior Glass Works we recently introduced a reproduction 1934-36 Chevy pickup chassis. Made to the exact size and shape as the original, so original (and fiberglass) body parts will mount without issue. Available as a bare frame or complete roller. More information online: http://www.superiorglassworks.com/1934-1935-1936-Chevy-Pick-Up-Chassis.html

Let us know if we can help.

Brad
Superior Glass Works
www.superiorglassworks.com

Thanks for the info on the c notch. How much did you notch out? By looking a pictures it appears a stock frame is 5 or 6 inches of travel room. How much room should a guy allow if you don't plan on hauling more than light loads?

Thanks Brad,
I checked the link, I did not see a bare 36 frame price and when you look at the different suspension brands offered, none of them specify they are for a 36 pickup?

Buck

Thanks Wahoo40
quick question, if the hump is in the frame and the bed sits above that, how far off the frame is the front of the bed so it sits level?

Buck

I can measure mine if you want, but it's somewhere around 3". The back of the bed bolts right to the frame.

Joe

Somewhere, I recently saw a 36 frame for sale - maybe over on The H.A.M.B. It might be what you need if you can find it. If I see it, I'll shoot you the ad.

You can pretty much set the box at any height you need to match the cab. The only thing that will change is the depth of the box inside...(floor height). Mock up the cab and running boards on the frame first. This will determine where the box sits.

i just bought a 1940 truck that I'm assuming is a 3/4 ton as the rear end bump is only 1 3/4 inches high and the frame is 5-6 inches wide(deep?). on the 1/2 tons the rear end bump were 4 in. deep. the 1 1/2 ton trucks were straight and 7 inches wide frame. make sense? Hope this helps a bit as I'm trying to figure things out before i dig into it.

Barry.

Thanks Pro Bird
That sounds like my frame 7 inches high. I guess a 4 inch c notch out of that would not be bad. The 7 inch frame should be really stout although more weight.

im thinking along the lines of the truck probably wont carry anything heavier than a beer cooler so if i modify it a bit, it wont make any differance. as long as we stiffen up the sides it should be fine.