The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks a few '60 C10 questions.....

Hi... I have a few questions that need answers so I can finish up getting my short bed step side closer to completion.

Heater control cable question...
My FAN and DEF work as they should but AIR and HEAT have no cables attached. I'm getting new cables but I don't know where the other end goes. I assume the AIR cable controls a vent but where is it? And the HEAT cable opens/closes some valve but where does it live?

Hood Emblem question...
Which hood emblem was on the '60 c10? I have a 283 v8 so I thought that the big chrome V with the red Bowtie in it's center was the correct hood emblem but in most c10 pictures there is no emblem or just the bowtie emblem.

Bed wood...
Are each of the pieces of bed wood (3/4"?) the same width and what is that width. I'm thinking on making my own planks but unsure of the sizes I need.

Choke Knob...
My choke knob won't screw on tight enough to pull the choke out so it keeps coming off in my hand. Is there some trick or is it stripped?

Thanks in advance.
Q

I can only offer input on some of the questions.

The following pages from the 1960 Accessories Installation Manual show where the cables go:

[IMG]http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5246/1960accessories187.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/545/1960accessories188.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/2903/1960accessories189.jpg[/IMG]

Don’t know about the hood emblem.

The bed wood planks are different sizes, hopefully another member will provide sizing. I have an aluminum diamond plate floor so can’t help there.

It sounds like the choke knob is stripped, which might be because the cable itself is so old and crusty it requires too much force to slide through the spring jacket. The knob can easily be reattached with JB Weld or JB Kwik epoxy. It’s available just about anywhere including Walmart. Before reattaching the knob however, I’d check to see if the cable is easy to pull by operating it with a pair of pliers. Hold the gas pedal down to free the carb linkage, and cycle the cable. It should glide in and out easily. If it doesn’t, you have two options. Buy a replacement cable with the correct knob, or buy a cheap generic cable at the local parts store and replace the new knob with yours by attaching it with JB epoxy. That’s how I’ve attached my dash knobs and never had a failure. Good luck.

The '60-'61 Chevy light-duty trucks with a V8 have the Bowtie/V emblem and the six cylinder equipped trucks have the Bowtie only, no V.

4-5-6Chevy has it right. The V8 has a bowtie emblem with a V under it.
I believe just to the left of this post is a site sponsor, Mar-K has the bed wood dimensions on their site.

Made my own bed. I don't remember the sizes but will go look. I used oak (or oak plywood) from Menards amd stainless strips from Mar-K I ordered them unpolished and buffed them myself.Same with stainless carrage bolts from Menards. Don't know if they are in your area but Home Depot shoul have the same parts. I also found there aluminum channel for the outer edges.

http://www.gmcpauls.com/47-72_BedWood_Info.htm

This should give you the bedwood info.

As to the heater controls, is it possible that you have the recirculating type heater, and would therefore only have 2 levers? If you a have a BIG box on the firewall side, then you do have a deluxe heater.

4-5-6 and Builder.... Thanks! I found one in great shape. Time to get it.

WOW! Thanks for the heater tip Markeb and K10! My Dash has 4 sliders but I have the Recirculating heater, Not the Deluxe. My search for where to hook the yet to be purchased cables is over.

Thanks also for bed chart and "Make your own" tips Gazim. I may trying making it when I get to outta doing headstands in the cab!

This thread has been a Godsend!
Thanks
Questar