The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Gas Tank Question

Not sure where to post this question but will start under General Truck Talk.
I have a 1946 1/2 ton that has the gas tank with a baffle that has broken loose.. I removed the gas tank a few years ago to restore the truck and I am now putting everything back. From what I can tell the inside is fine as far as rust,sludge, etc.
A few questions?
1. Is there any way to re - attach the baffle? I.E. cut out the top enough to weld the baffle back and than weld the top.
2. Can I still drive the truck with the detached baffle. I know it will slide around but will the sliding cause any potential problems?
3. Or should I just bite the bullet and buy another gas tank? If so what should I expect to pay for a good gas tank?

Any other suggestions will be appreciated.

cvett, I replaced the tank in my '40 because it was full of crud, and nobody would clean it (locally.) A broken baffle, if completely loose, could damage your sending unit and probably make weird noises. Maybe even a possible spark??? Cutting and welding on any gas tank, even filled with water, would scare me. And places you weld will rust on the inside. I think it would be worth the $$$ in the long run to replace the tank for peace of mind. I got mine from Carter, $350 bucks, but the BAD news was $95 shipping. So, wherever you get a tank, if you go that route, get a firm quote on shipping!!! Good luck!

Cvett
That is good advice. Buy a new tank and sleep well.

.... but shop around for the tank and that includes the swap meet to see what it out there. Some guy that is rodding or putting a tank in the rear may have a good used one he doesn't need.
Just a thought.

Depends on how much money you want to spend. A new tank would be ideal but the old one can be used.

I'm assuming a '46 tank is similar to later models with the tank behind the seat. Are you sure the tank has a baffle or are you just hearing something loose in the tank?

The sending unit is pretty fragile; a float runs up a spiral flat strip. That can break off and rattle around. A new sending unit is not expensive and easy to install.

As for the crud and light rust I would pour phosphoric acid in it while the sending unit is out, let it set overnight, flush it out with a garden hose or use a pressure washer if available. If there is still visible rust or crud just repeat the process until it is clean.

The acid will leave a coating that will resist rust for a couple of years. If no water gets in then the gasoline will keep it from rusting.

Gail, where do you get your phosphoric acid from?

I used to use Behr Concrete Etcher & Rust Remover in the black jug but they took the phosphoric acid out of it in 2009 and their replacement Behr Concrete & Masonary Cleaner/Etcher doesn't even touch the rust. I would love to find five gallons of it for my acid tank which is down two a couple of gallons.
Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Denny, I believe you'll find that at home depot in a product called, "Prep & Etch.

Denny,
Try:
http://chemical-supermarket.com/product.php?productid=669
http://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Remover-Comparison-Chart-W22C2.aspx
http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html?gclid=CMKoopWSn6oCFQpY7Aod5wPB5w
Harold

Some folks here should know that derusting with this only removes the rust and leaves the item open to more rust. Very quickly after applying you should either paint or prime or put a light coat of oil on it or surface rust will begin to appear in no time.

Try True-Value for chemicals. They usually have a good selection of various alcohols, acids, and such. The "box stores" seem to only carry "echo friendly" wares now.

AND ALMOST AS EFFECTIVE AS AN ECHO TOO!

Ask for NAVEL JELLY - that's phosphoric acid in a gel form - but I'd go with the new tank and the peice of mind. Nothing worse than rust clogging your fuel filter on an outing when you have your Sunday best's on.................

I have to disagree. The only coating phosphoric acid leaves behind is surface rust once the moisture in the air hits the surface. Gasoline will do nothing to stop the rust unless you never drive the truck. In a vented system, as the fuel is used it's replaced by air, moisture laden air. The moisture will cause the unprotected metal to rust. I've used phosphoric acid to de-rust gas tanks and I've used muriatic acid to de-rust gas tanks. Once the rust & crud are gone you must use a coating if you want the rust to stay away. I've used several and my personal preference is Red-Kote. I once read a post that muriatic acid will cause the metal in a gas tank to change properties and become brittle. I can't call that person a liar BUT I used muriatic on my '38's tank five years ago and have had NO issues since.

Muriatic acid will deteriorate certain anodized metals.

Do a Google search for "phosphoric acid [your city]" and you should come up with a short list of industrial suppliers.

If you're in a small town you can shop for a supplier online.

Amazon.com is another good place to start. They are brokers for just about anything.

Stores like Home Depot carry phosphoric acid in gallons or quarts but it's expensive and I wouldn't trust the strength.

Sources like Naval Jelly have just found a way to package phosphoric acid in a gel form so it will stay on a vertical surface. Eastwood sells a similar product in gallon jugs.

Good luck,

Naval Jelly is going to be really difficult to apply in his situation. He needs gallon jugs of liquid to pour in the tank and let stand overnight.

Cvett originally posted his tank was pretty clean inside but since the subject of using phosphoric acid to clean them has been discussed I wanted to relate my experience doing this.

I could see a little rust in my tank and large dark areas on the bottom. I was using a Jasco phosphoric acid product on my body panels and it worked great. I poured a couple of gallons of slightly used solution into the tank and let it sit for a couple of days turning it. I ended up with a horrible gummy mess still attached to the bottom of the tank.

Searching the archives inspired me. I had a tractor. I had gravel. I had a worse mess. The rocks were stuck in the gumbo despite many minutes rotating on the tractor wheel. Getting all those rocks out was not fun. I was finally able to clean everything out by sacrificing my last 2 gallons of really good carb cleaner.

Despite ending up with a clean, rust free, non-leaking tank I went with a new one. The peace of mind was worth it.

Chuck

Chuck, I'm not sure the rocks would help clean out a gummy mess but you should have tried hours or days instead of minutes with the rock rotation. I've used pea gravel and I've used sand and have always had a favorable result. I agree with several on this subject, a new tank will always work the best.

After exploring my options and considering that the only thing wrong with my gas tank was the loose baffle I did the following, in case someone else has the same problem. I first made the determination that the inside of the tank was in good shape and the only thing I could see with a flash light looking through the sending unit hole and filling neck was some very , very little surface rust which I do not think will cause any problems as the tank has been sitting for a couple years. I then sat the tank on my work bench as it sits in the truck with the sending unit hole facing up. I than shock the tank until the baffle was located under the sending unit hole laying flat. I used a pair of long pinchers to move the baffle aside making sure that it was not over the fuel line valve.I than used J B Wield and used a long wooden paint paddle and deposited the J B Wield were I wanted to position the baffle.Than I used long pinchers and moved the baffle over where I deposited the J B Wield and cut a 3/4 inch of PVC pipe and stuck it in the hole to where I could put weights on top to help secure the baffle to the gas tank over night. This morning I lifted the gas tank and the baffle was not rolling around. Before I spend $350.00 I will try this as long as the baffle holds.

Warner, hope it works. Necessity is the mother of invention. Just be sure to put a small shut off valve, and a filter close to where it exit's the tank in case any thing ever does come loose and wont' get past the filter. But then this is a good think for any tank! .......say hi to Vicki.