The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot '60-'66 Trucks Rebuild drums or Replace

I picked up a 61 c10 on a trade for some yard art. Hasn't run since 97, When the Previous owner parked it due to "Brake Issues". I Took the rear wheels off to check them. The drivers side looked fine, but the passengers side was really goobered up.
The pads are bad in there and there was grease and oil covering everything making me think there must be a bad seal as well. Hoping the axle isn't bad and really hoping someone here can tell me what to look for next.
Im trying to get this truck into shape to drive with as little investment as possible seeing as how i am about to have my first child. And really want to fix this thing up for He and I to ride together in.
So Should i rebuild the drums, replace the seal and hope there isnt further damage in there or start to replace everything to move to a 5 lug setup?
The more you hear me talk the more you will realize how much about this i don't know, so don't be afraid to speak slowly to me.
Thanks

1. you do not have pads, but brake shoes in those years. you do not get rebuilt brake drums, though you can get them turned down if they are still within specs. other than that one buys new ones. if the wheel cyls are leaking they can make things look gunky also.
those you can rebuild or buy new ones. seals should be replaced
ron

Got it, shoes not pads.
Had a friend with me when i Took the drums apart, Said they shouldnt need turning. Looked good actually. Any tips on determining if it is the seals or the Wheel cyls?
Thanks Ron

replace both while you are there IMO.

Remember you're betting your life on the brakes every time you step on the pedal. I'd reccomend replacing the wheel cylinders as a matter of cheap insurance rather than trying to rebuild them, especially if you can find original-equipment items, not imported ones. Old wheel cylinders have a chronic problem with rust pitting, and just replacing the rubber parts won't solve a leak on occasion. Ditto on the axle seals - - - -it's a reelatively simple procedure to pull the rear end cover, remove the axles, and replace the axle seals- - -low cost insurance you don't spoil the new brakes with rear end lube leaks. Do it once, do it right, and drive on!
Jerry

AMEN, to what Jerry posted. If you are serious about safely driving a "new" old vehicle, replace as many brake parts as you can afford (if you cannot afford all new parts, reconsider your priorities).

Jerry, this is one time that you should have been more colorful in your exposition.

Go to www.gregsonline.com and get a manual on how to work on your truck. It's always the best place to start.

You will most likely need to replace seals, wheel cylinders, brake lines (hard and flexible), master cylinder as well as shoes. The master cylinder may be an expensive piece on that truck. The rear axle seals would be a good thing to replace.
One thing leads to another.

If one hones the wheel cyls and they cleanup with no pits they are just as good as new ones, mind you new wheel cyls are relatively inexpensive except when when you get into the larger sizes like 1/4'" and up, if they are pitted replace them.
if you are paying a shop $75.-$100.00 an hr to work on your brakes you automatically replace them-economics
ron

Got my parts, New seals, Cylinders, and shoes, ready to get to work on this today.
Anyone want to help me figure out how to get the axle off.
Sorry to ask such basic questions but everyone has to learn somewhere.
Reece

You're ambitious, but you should get a service manual to help you out. The rear axle will come out after you pull the pumpkin cover and release the axle clips. Did you get some rear end lube too? You'll probably want to check the rear axle bearings as well. Do you have a parts washer and plenty of rags?

Rags ive got. Hoping to get a manual online somewhere but looks like it has to be ordered. Got the pumpkin cover off no problem, a little nervous now about the axle clips. Are they the lone bolts on the right and left sides of the gears. They are 1/2inch bolts that hold only a small peice of steel? I am assuming that after i get those off i can pull the axles out? I know i am in over my head. But i love the thrill of trying to figure this out.

The axle clips are not obvious to a casual look. There is a round pivot shaft that holds the "spider" gears, the two small ones that are visible as the ring gear and carrier assembly is turned. One small bolt that goes through the carrier housing from right to left keeps the spider gear shaft in place. Once that bolt is removed, the spider gear shaft can be slid out, and the spider gears can be removed. Push the axle shafts toward the center, and a C-shaped clip can be removed from the inboard end of each axle. Then the axles can be slid out of the housing. Inspect the outboard area of the axles where the bearings run for scoring or grooves. Once the seals and/or bearings are replaced, reverse the procedure for reassembly. The two clips you're seeing now are retainers for the side gear adjusting nuts- - - -don't tamper with them!

Edit: Here's a picture:
http://0.tqn.com/w/experts/Chevrolet-Repair-808/2009/11/rear.gif

Jerry

is there anything i should know about putting the spider gears back into place? Seems like it might be easy to mess up.
And where in the world did you get that pic?
Thank you

The spider gears will "roll" back in place. Just "mess" with them and you'll say "my that was easy".

Here is a link to the online manuals a stovebolter has done for us. I suggest gettng your own manual from just about all the parts vendors. The Vendors are listed in the Links.

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

Thanks for the tip~! Got the axles out and My that was easy, Think i am going to wait for someone to look at the bearings to make sure they are worthwhile to keep. They look brand new. Think i might have to use a hammer to get the new seals in though. This is going much better than i had expected.

Famous last words!
New seals dont fit!

the old ones should have a nbr on them. they should be able to go by that. thy can cross reference.
ron

If it’s been sitting for almost 15 years I’d strongly suggest to consider replacing everything including the tires. Tires and brakes are things you just don’t skimp on.

Look at the bearing races. Look for pits, discoloration and scratches. If in doubt, replace them. I pack my rear axle bearings just like any other bearing. The rear end lube will wash and mix with the grease with no worries. Lube your seals on assembly too.
On the top of the pumpkin of the rear end, there should be a vent. It could be a hose, or a small metal cap type sleeve crimped to a nipple that will screw out. Make sure that is cleaned out real good too.

The seals will be a drive-in fit, not easy to start into the housing at all. If they have a steel shell, try tapering the leading edge just a little bit with a bench grinder, then use a big socket almost as large as the outside diameter of the seal as a driver. Use a BFH and don't be timid once the seal starts into the housing. Be careful and don't mash any fingers!
Jerry