The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Oil pan replacement.

I had to remove my oil pan for a leak issue and before I replace it. I have a few questions. First , Gasket to block with RTV ? Then the pan had dimples at the bolt holes. Should I level these out to made it seal better ? Last It was wire brushed along the flange (block side) should I paint inside for rust and apperance? Any other hints to make the reinstall go smooth will be appreciated.

Get the gasket flange of the oil pan straight. The dimples have to be taken out. When you tighten the pan back up, most people make the mistake of over tightening the bolts. That is what dimples the bolt holes in the first place.
I get the oil pan as clean as a whistle inside and out, paint the outside of the pan. If a little over spray gets on the gasket surface of the flange, I don't sweat it. RTV can be used as a thin coat. It should be used where the gasket meets the seal.

If you get the oil pan gasket surface straightened out you will have won half the battle.

There is a tech tip on replacing the oil pan gasket that can be found here.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/oil_pan_gasket.htm

i like to use this. http://www.permatex.com/products/au...to_Permatex_High_Tack_Gasket_Sealant.htm
i put it on the block flange and bolt the gasket(finger snug) in place using all the bolts until its dry (overnight). time consuming? YES but it has it advantages. i take the cork seal and preform it to the bearing cap also overnight. i use the high tack to hold the seal in place when i seat it in the bearing housing.

i put a dab of this in the each corner where the gasket and seal meet. http://www.permatex.com/products/au.../Permatex_Anaerobic_Flange_Sealant_a.htm and put the pan on. which at this time every hole lines up perfectly and there's no fighting it. three trucks i did this way and no leaks

Thanks for the info. I had found a tip here that suggested sealing gasket to block and drying . I did that and made sure the bolt holes were lined up. my kit had cork gaskets and rubber front /rear seals. glued them in and let sit. I cut 4 bolts to use as guide pins.let that sit for a few hours . A little sealer onthe pan and put it in place. hand tighted all the bolts and let it cure all nite. Filled it with oil this a.m. and retightened pan bolts. Fired it up and let it idle till temp reached 180. no leaks. when it cools some will recheck the bolts. Done! now should i go to the back Trans mounts or front timing cover? Thanks for the info and links

With rare exception stay away from RTV on an engine.

? I am curious, why avoid RTV ? I used permatex ultra blue. It shows a oilpan on the box. I dont remember seeing the can stuff at the autoparts. Will look nextime i go.