The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Help! - Trying to Buy the Right Truck

Gents - I'm new to this forum and need some advice. I'm on the prowl for a 1950 to 1953 5 Window 3100. I found a '53 5 Window in red with what seems to be a very good body (paint, chrome, straight) and excellent interior. Underside could use a litle TLC but looks to be ok. Only issue in my opinion is that the original 235 cid has been replaced with a newer 250 cid and 350 turbo automatic transmission. I imagine the rear is not original either.

So, the truck is up for $26,500. If it had the correct engine and transmission I think it would be worth it (it looks that good!). I am concerned that without the correct mechanicals, the truck is worth far less than what I'd have to pay for it. I may be taking a pretty big hit when I decide to sell it. Am I off on this? Does it make a difference on the valuation of the truck?

Please help me here. I like the truck in question but am afraid to make a mistake by paying too much for a truck without the correct engine/trany.

Thanks!
Marc
Atlanta, GA

Hy MarcF, welcome, I would say that if the engine and transmission are the only modifications, then it is no longer "stock", but it really isn't a street rod either. A street rod would have a lot more modifications, suspension, brakes, air conditioning, etc., etc.. I don't think the truck is worth anywhere near that, because it is neither this or that. Pictures would be very helpful, is the paint job a new version of a stock colour?

Worth is determined on what you are willing to pay for it. I'm sure the seller has an idea of what he would take for it. Also worth varies depending on location and rarity of vehicle as I'm sure you are aware of. In the end go with your gut and what your happy with. Compare, compare and compare.

Would help a lot. Restored 1947/55 Chevrolet 1/2 tons generally run between $12,000 -$35,000 with the median price around $15,000 - 19,000 depending on originality and the quality of the restoration. I have seen beautifully restored trucks go for $13,000 - $15,000 in this market.

If the undercarriage needs TLC, I wouldn't be surprised if there are other areas that need it too. That's a lot of money in this market.

You have a PM, check your mailbox.

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate the guidance. This truck is more "eye candy" than anything else. Here is a link to seller's website:

1953 Chevrolet 3100 5 Window Pickup

Now, don't look at it too long or you'll start justifying the price... I spoke with the shop selling it and they'll go down to $26,500. That's their bottom.

I received a PM from Gmoniz with a good bit of helpful information and guidance.

So, let me know what you think of this red beauty.

Thanks,
Marc

I'd guess between 15 and 18K for this truck. A good stock, restored truck would be in this range. 26K and up will get you into some pretty nice modified / street rod stuff.

if it is worth it to you buy it,,,
you could buy two good ones for that..

I love red but not that much..lol
the 250 and automatic would keep me away from it unless it was
dirt cheap,,,like about sixteen

What do you plan to do with it if you bought it?

Forget top shelf showing with the mods. If you plan to go to mid-level shows and cruises, are you ok with folks deriding the 250?

If your goal is to turn heads with a driver, you'll certainly do it- it is a pretty truck. I think you could do that with another truck, especially with the saved $10,000 sticking out of your back pocket.

Comes down to what you can afford- you know their asking price.

Bill

I have way more in my 54 and it was appraised for about what is being asked for that truck. i don't really care, my idea when doing mine was being able to drive it anywhere and i was in Maryland in April and in South Bend Indiana in may a total of 1700 miles. if you buy a new truck it will depreciate as soon as you drive it off the floor by 20 percent and keep going. if you like the truck and think is worth it buy it. if you can do the work yes you can get in one for a lot less but it may take you years. i did not have the the tools and the time to do it.BTW i took another look at the truck and it so so sweet.

Welcome Marc, you shouldn't ever expect to sell it for what you paid for it. If you manage that, it's a bonus. This is a hobby, nothing more. It's like spending money to go to an auto race or sports event, you had a good time and the money is gone. Was it worth it?

If you aren't too sure about the nice red truck, leave it. There are more fish in the sea. In my opinion, the choice of engine/tranny was a poor one.

I see you are in Georgia and the truck appears to be in Texas. Have you seen the truck in person? If not, PLEASE do not spend that kind of money sight unseen. I don't care how good the 'pictures' look. Also, factor in shipping unless you are planning a nice long drive. My $.02.

Way overpriced.

Hy MarcF, okay I looked through the pictures, the bigger ones, and I must agree it is a pretty truck. I am always nervous when the seller isn't as proud of the chassis as he is the body, why no chassis pictures? My priority has always been the engineering in a vehicle not the pretty body. The engine pictures revealed some disturbing things to me, the hole in the valve cover through which clean makeup air is to enter is plugged, under high vacuum conditions this may cause the fuel pump diaphragm to float. there is no vacuum advance tube down to the distributor and hence no vacuum advance. The fuel line appears to be all rubber and is just drapped over the valve cover in the most direct route from the fuel pump to the carb. The air filter is Mickey Mouse at best, being held in place by a hose clamp. It mentions in the text about a gauge package, but the temparature gauge is still a capillary type just as the truck would have stock. The last thing that glares at me about this truck is that it is advertised as a "53", yet it has the doors of a "50" or older truck. If it were me I wouldn't even entertain buying this truck at half the price, I'm sure you could find a more properly assembled truck for a much more reasonable price!

The truck is pretty--- but it never had an original 235 c i engine--that wasn't available till 1954. What else isn't original--does it have a torque tube? Vacuum wipers? converted to 12 volt? I don't believe the original style upholstry has all that stitching---? Original brakes? As you can see from the above comments this appears to be a cobbled together truck with a much higher asking price than reasonable-- it very well may have cost that much to assemble it but it is neither restored or modified sufficiently to warrant that price (IMO).
But it is a pretty truck.

look at this site someone on this site has issues with this site but look at for reference.

What is wrong with having the 250 engine?

Nothing is wrong with the 250 in a driver. That's all that truck is, a driver. And you can get good equal value drivers for $10-15K.

If rest of the truck was done like that engine job it probably is cobeled too. The 250 engine makes a good swap but I'd be ashamed to ask a price like that the way that was done. The rubber fuel line with a filter hanging in it, the manifold retainer brackets are gone. They just used flat washers. I can't imagine what that carb came from. The air filter is a joke.

you can get a brand new HHR for 15K, along with a good warranty, excellent gas mileage, and all the creature comforts

Bill

With all the talk of its value is worth what you will pay for it. Is very missleading.
It would be very difficult to attempt to explain without hurting some feelings, so I best not. To put it simply, if someone is realy into the trucks, and a serious collector, then they will want factory concourse stock. And to keep the value up that is the best way to go, and the most difficult way to go, for a restoratioon.
Some say whats wrong with a 250 engine? Well maybe noting in the "correct" vehicle. What makes it not good in an older truck is the major modifications to put it there. Like cutting out or somehow removing the rear crossmember to make the 350 transmission fit, the extra cutting and or welding for brackets and or what ever. All stuff that detracts from stock.Yeah it may make it more of a driver but.I and all the rest here can search the net or what ever for a truck, and you will find lots of over priced modified trucks available.
You will not find one factory stock TF truck forsale at any price. So whats that tell you? Prove me wrong. Show me one.
Oh and I'm into the TF not the AD's.

What does an HHR have to do with it? Let's stay on topic please.

so, truckolet you are saying because this is not factory correct and i wanted to give it to you, you would not take it. i can bet you that a lot of people on here would. i have put 12,000 miles on it since completion and have a smile on my face and many others. with a concourse vehicle most don't get driven and as far as i am concerned that is what they are all about. BTW that picture was taken at Stovebolt HQ, 650 miles from my home.

watch BJ auction on the 24 th, next week and
maybe someone will offer a real stock restored tf or ad..
and you can spend all you want..

The opinions expressed in this thread, all relate to a common issue that I feel is very important to the Stovebolt Community.


This site is packed with information that helps us repair, restore and modify these wonderful trucks. Each of us has a different idea as to what is the ideal truck. In the above post, WE b OLD represents someone who can take his truck on the open highway at modern speeds, perhaps with A/C and a modern sound system, and modern reliable brakes. Then we have folks like Denny Graham, who want to keep things ultra original, down to manufacturing defroster door bumpers to match the originals, (even though you have to disassemble the heater to even see them!) Can't we respect each viewpoint, even though we have our own set of goals, likes and dislikes?


Each of us that owns one (or more) starts with a truck that is in a different state than the next truck. One truck might be a low mileage survivor while the next might be a basket case. The state of our truck can take us on a different journey than perhaps we envisioned. In the restoration of my '50 COE I have had to make some turns away from my original goals that I did not anticipate, but don't disrespect me for my decisions. Enjoy and learn from what I have done, and go do yours the way you want.

My answer to MarkF is the following. While I don't exactly agree with the tone of some of the above posts, there is, nonetheless, some very wise advice. Ultimately, you must find the answer within yourself, in terms of what kind of truck (stock, modified) you really want, balanced with your financial resources. Above all, have fun.

Kent

Lightholder's Dad expressed it succinctly. thanks.

bottom line, it is your truck, do what you want...

just drive em

I am of the mindset that you create what you dream, whether it be original stock, highly modified or somewhere in between. It's your dream, not someone else's.

Hey I disappear for a day and to my surprise I come back to find 3 pages of posts/replies to my original post. This is a great forum! I really appreciate the input.

I actually go side-tracked messaging and emailing back and forth with Gmoniz. He's been a great help.

Since finding that extremelly attractive red truck, I've identified several other options at substantially less money. I think I fall into the "restore it to as close to stock/original as possible" camp. The red truck would definitely be a head turner anywhere you drive or park it. Not to mention, it would be a little easier to drive with the auto tranny. However, I think I'm going to find something more original and recently restored with correct mechanicals, etc. Although, for the low to mid teens, I'd probably buy that red truck just to have it for a Sunday drive when I'm looking for some attention.

So, I've found several trucks ranging from a '50 to a '53; 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton. Most of them them are green. One was a GMC, the others were Chevys. Price ranges are from $17.5k to $25k, prior to negotiating. Heck, if you guys care to comment.

Would appreciate some more input! Let me know which truck you guys like best (for whatever reason - collectibility, driveability, looks, etc.). The '50 3/4 ton seems to be very original/stock. Owner says it was a frame-off done before he bought it in 2004. I may like it more than the others, especially at that price. Any thoughts? I've got more pictures of the '52 in OH in case anyone wants them. Anyone coming through Atlanta - lunch is on me.

Thanks,
Marc

In my humble yes i have been humbled by Cletis, i like the first one the last one i would hope would not have that green interior. maybe it was a trick of the lighting. with either the first and last it would give some latitude to do some more.

MarkF,
I live in Mesa, AZ. Want me to go take a look-see at the first one?

Kent

Marc, I have twice deleted links to ads. Links to ads are not allowed in General Truck Talk. Please read the post Why posts are edited...

Thanks

Cletis - thanks for unlocking the post! Sorry to make work for you...

Okay - question for everyone: How much differently does a 3600 drive from a 3100? The 3600 I'm interested in has a 3.90:1 rear end ratio. Will that get me 50mph on back roads? Other than a 235cid engine and 12v conversion, everything else is restored to original/stock including bias ply tires.

Thanks,
Marc

The original rear axle would have had a 4.57 ratio, or higher. With the 3.90 rear, the 3/4 should drive very well... I have to assume it's not the original rear axle, or else the P.O. also has a concession for hen's teeth! LOL! Even if it's a 4.10 it should do decent highway speeds. The original trans should be the granny-low 4 spd.
My only concern would be the same trouble I'm having: finding replacement brake drums. The shoes can be relined, but the original Huck-style brake drums aren't available new any more, and even used can be rare. If it has a newer rear axle, parts will be easier to find for the rear brakes. Parts for the front, if they haven't been switched to Bendix-style, will still be difficult to replace.

marcf go here and play around with tire sizes and gear ratios. ron

Kent - thanks for having a look at the truck for me. I'll be waiting to hear from you Thursday or Friday. Great talking to you.
Marc

Highflyer - thanks for the info on rear axles and ratios. Makes me feel better about the 3.90. At first I was a bit disappointed because the rear axle was not original, but I plan on driving the truck on the weekends so i imagine a 4.57 or 5.43 would make anything above 40mph a challenge.

The trans is original - "granny-low 4spd".

This question will show my lack of knowledge, but who cares - If the truck does trully have a 3.90 rear axle instead of the original, does that mean the wheel mounts, brakes, etc are all non original also? I'm trying to understand if a rear axle change would include everything all the way out to but excluding the wheels/tires. Assume I know nothing (hard to believe, I know) and please explain from the drive shaft back what it means to have a non original rear axle (exactly what is part of the rear axle).

Geesh, I thought I was getting a fairly original truck (thats if the owner doesn't sell it while I'm on the forum thinking about it...). Turns out the engine is a 235 vis a 216, voltage is 12 vs 6, rear axle / rear end is a 3.90 vs a 4.57. Are these negatives??? I guess if someone is a collector and looking for a "bone stock" vehicle, then its a negative. But for driveability it would seem that these are good modifications. What do you think?

Thanks!
Marc

Ron - thanks. Good site.
Marc

I would guess it's a Dana 60 or a GMC corporate... But I really don't know. There are rumors of a 3.90 gear set for the HO52 rear axle, but if it exists, it would require a 1962? or later carrier. It's possible it is the original axle with a newer pumpkin, but the chances are it's a newer axle with newer brakes and everything.
That won't help with the front brakes, but you may find they've already been swapped to bendix if a big "resto" was done. If not, when they need doing you may find the parts available from folks here.
Good luck and good hunting!

You answered your own question. If you're hung up on originality and "correctness", then it would probably be a negative. But for driveability, convenience, dependability, etc., then there's nothing wrong with any of those modifications. It all comes down to what you want, and what you will be happy with.