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i just had my 1959 235 rebuilt the rebuilder said brake in with 20w and the the aditive that patricks sells/ and one more apinion because there free.thanks

Not sure about what oil to run after a rebuild, but I run 15W40 Rotella in my 1959 W/ the 235. But it probably has over 100K miles

I also run 15w40 in my 1991 Jeep Wagoneer V8 with 129k miles, so I get adequate oil pressure. In a basically brand new motor, wouldn't you just run 10w30?

15w40 is my recommendations. it is one of the few high zinc oils left on the market because its designed for diesels. Valvoline or Rotella will be perfect

Well I was always told to not use synthetic motor oil. But if you do all the research there is no diff in the oil except synthetic last longer. Most older folks will say no synthertic but thats cause they dont know the facts of it. Always add a zinc additive to gas motor oil. Rotella has a high zinc and will do good without a additive, cause diesels still use solid lifters. Rebuild a tune of high compression engines and have never seen anywere a note from an engineree saying to change oil after 1000 miles. Change oil at regular miles. Good luck

O ya. My 59 has the factory motor and is still runnning strong.

I know Rotella/Valvaline has the zinc in it but I have always used a quart of the E.O.S.(engine oil supplement) in every rebuilt engine I start up. The first 20 minutes or so is the most crucial for a rebuilt engine. Do it once, do it right. After initial break in choose a good oil and change regular and you'll be set.

Grandpastruck, I have nothing against syntheic oil except for the fact it cost twice as much. My engines, here in the south, have done very well on Valvaline and Castrol for the past 35 years. Currently my pickup is at 225K and nothing ever done to the engine..as well as lots of other engines. I just can't justify the cost.
I may add that all my engines since at least 1982 have had at least 165/185K on them and running good when sold or traded and I changed the oil and filter at 5000 mile intervals. It takes good common sense know as maintenance.

So, if it was me, oldchevguy, I'd run 10w30 Valvaline with the E.O.S. with the first fill, and then the Valvaline afterwards.
Just my opinions now!

for my breakins i used john deere break in oil. after that i use rotella 15-40 and change the oil every year

On the subject of oil changes, Anyone know the difference in oil change intervals for I6's with oil filters, and without oil filters?

My 51 does not have a filter, but my 59 has one from the factory. I really dont drive them much to change it regularly, and probably end up pouring in fresh rotella about once a year on average. It would probable be a good idea to ad a filter on my '51.

There are some threads on different oils but I understand that Rotella doesn't have the high zinc levels anymore. Maybe someone will add to this.

If I was getting ready to start up a engine rebuilt by a professional rebuilder, I would ask them what they recommend. This way, they cannot point a finger at your bad choice of break-in lubricants.

Nonetheless, Patrick sells a ZDDP compound (Z D D additive, he calls it). If you like Patrick's recommendations, use Valvoline VR-1 oil. Rotella T 15W40 diesel oil (as recommended above) should work fine in combination with a ZDDP additive (for break-in).

http://www.patricksantiquecars.com/chevy_parts.html

There are many types of break-in oil out now. Comp Cams sells one, GM EOS, just to name a few. Any local auto parts store will have one on the shelve. Diesel oils do not have the zinc they once did since the new engines now have converters on them just like the cars do. Brad Penn oil is one of the most recommended on the market now. It has the highest levels of additives and many of the cam makers recommend it for break-in.

Any grade of oil will work, the heavy oils such as 15-40 might be a bit much for a new engine, I would step it down to a 10-30 or 10-40 with a quart of additive or a full load of Brad Penn 10-30.

A stock engine is way different then a race or street strip engine as far as valve spring pressure is concerned so less pressure is on the cam lobes. You didn't mention if this is a new camshaft or not so we will assume it is. Pre lube the engine with a drill motor no matter what oil you use, and rotate the crank four complete turns while running the drill motor. This will insure all the lifters are full and the rockers have started to receive oil.

Once broke in, check the oil for metal bits if the engine doesn't have a oil filter, if the oil is still clean, keep running it. A slight amount of material in the oil is acceptable due to cylinder wall and ring wear. What you don't want to see is brass or aluminum floating. After the first 500 miles or so change out the filter only if it has one and add back more oil. You can just change all the oil if you have the money, but be sure to add back the zinc, Comp Cams is $15 per bottle, thats why we run the same oil for a long time, its a lot of money to just dump. If the filter is doing its job, the oil will remain clean for a long time.


Joe

I agree on the JD break in oil. Personally, I would use something a little thinner for the sake of gasoline mileage, such as a good 10w-30. Just my opinion, I could be wrong.

Mobil makes a 10W30 racing oil thats high in zinc ,thats what the engine guy that does my machining says is good for break in ,he sells it for 5.00 a qt.the 15W40 is to heavy an oil for breaking in a new engine so my engine guy says and my Son in law who races dirt track cars.I'd go with any good 10 or 15W30 oil after the frist 250 to 500 miles ,good cold weather flow on start up and the new oils are much better than 25 years ago for protection.

Pete

My oil salesman tells me Rotella 15w40 & Valvoline Racing oil still has the max allowed zinc. Lucas makes an engine break in additive I sell often here-part # is 10063

I started to mention this but then decided not to as I am not "up to date" on some stuff these days. However, I have read, a while back, that even the 15-40 disel oils were being REDUCED. Not sure on all the info so beware and be save. I'd add E.O.S. or your supplement ZDDP of choice for the break in on a new engine.

....and once again, I think its worth noting here we are "primarily" talking about new rebuilt engine,especialy flat tappets, for which it is crucial.

yeah, my oil guy said it was '06 or so when it was reduced to "X" PPM, most normal oils no longer have ANY zinc, but Rotella 15w40(only) & Valvoline racing formula(any weight) still have the max allowed-he usually stays up on his oil, that's all he sells.

There is a thread that states The rotella 15w40 is still the old formula if it is sold by the drum. i can't verify this and still add gm's eos even though the engine in my truck was rebuilt over 20 years ago.Heck and I am thinking about trading my 10 year old work truck,but, the felling passed when I found out how much extra the insurance would be.

This could very well be true. I got my Rotella from the oil drum at work. Was used for semi trucks, So we got it by the truck full. I only used it once without zink. When I first got the truck. Pulled the drain plug and ran it through to make sure no crud was stuck in it. It was free oil and I was just wanting to see if it would crank after 12 years of not running.

Good luck.

Interesting. Think this applies to the 5 gallon drums of Rotella they sell at Advance Auto? I usually stock up on gallons when it goes to $11.99. The 5 gallon would be quite a hassle, but extra zinc would be worth it.

Your would need to check the ratings of the 5 gallon buckets. I don't know which is the newest so maybe you can find someone with a early bottle to compare to. I do know in '07 the diesels changed to low sulfur fuel and converters were added, so it only figures the oil changed at the same time.

The Rottella will still have zinc in it and probably enough for a stock engine, but the 15W40 is just to thick in my opinion. These small engines just don't work hard enough for this grade of oil.

Sure wish someone could find a good comparison chart thats up to date on oils and additives.

Joe