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| | | Forums66 Topics128,162 Posts1,056,943 Members48,458 | | Most Online14,466 Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
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on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down with Ads! Again, thanks! | | | | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 474 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 474 | I replaced my gauges months ago and finally started looking at the non-working fuel gauge. Wires are all good . Removed the new sending unit, didn't get the 0 to 30 OHM'S. Took the second nut loose from the sending unit to gauge wire. The grommets were letting the stud ground it out . Put the sending unit back together works great with 0 to 30 ohm test. Gauge still doesn't work. I have the 2nd RUNTZ voltage reducer first, one burned. My question is: Would that burn out the fuel gauge ? Tested it myself, just checking to see what readings I should have? Turn ignition switch on, gauge reads "E" then moved down a hair more lower.
Last edited by webstershotrods; 02/17/2011 6:59 AM.
| | | | | Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 Shop Shark | | Shop Shark Joined: May 2005 Posts: 1,624 | Too much currentr or amps is the reason why your voltage reducer smoked. Reason for hi current is unknown. Could be operator error or a failed component like wiring insulation. On the other hand. One very common mistake is a mismatch between what your gauge wants to see, resistance wise, from your sender and what ohms value sender you installed. BTW, there are many pervious posts on this subject with a number of troubleshooting hints to help solve the problem.
Six volt guy living in a twelve volt world
| | | | | Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Sep 2006 Posts: 3,596 | Same thing happened to me with the Runtz resitor it heated and shorted out to the back of the gauge. I am using the original sending unit (1950 truck) but I gounded the tank to the cab like the 52-and later trucks (wire from one of the sender screws to cab brace). I could never get it to work until I bought a new 12-volt gauge from Classic Parts works like a champ now. I also was really careful when I installed it to use new cardboard seperators like the original on the back of the gauge. They are available from www.classicchevroletparts.com but I couldn't find the item number this morning. | | |
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