The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Wheel Cylinder rebuild issues

I am trying to rebuild a wheel cylinder on my 59 apache 3/4 ton. I rebuilt one all ready, but the guts of this one are froze. I soaked it in carb cleaner for a couple of days. I tried PB Blaster, but I can't get the steel cams out on each end. Any help appreciated.

Did you try spraying PB Blaster inside the cylinder through the bleeder hole? Assuming you could get some in there, I'd let that soak and then take a C-clamp and squeeze the cams together.

Actually, I'd probably put it in a vise with a cam up, put a 1" socket on the cam and start whacking it with a hammer. :-)

I assume the "cam" you are referring is in reality the piston? Brake fluid that’s been in a system for more than a few years has absorbed enough moisture that it causes rust in the cylinder. If you wheel cylinder is rusted up to the point that the piston can’t be removed then by the time you hone out the rust pits from the cylinder and sand off the rust from the piston you are not going to get a good seal. It would be best to simply replace the entire wheel cylinder with a new one. A wheel cylinder for a 1959 truck is readily available from many sources and they are relatively inexpensive about $35.
If one is in this condition I would guess the rest of the brake system needs some serious attention.
Brakes are one area that you DON’T want to SKIMP ON!

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL

Thanks tpeerson, I will give your ideas a shot. Denny, you are right, it is the piston, sorry for the confusion. I am going to try to get it apart and see how bad it is, before I buy the entire unit. $35 isn't too bad, I thought they were more like $60. Thanks again to both of you.

Try gentle heat from a torch and I mean gentle. Just to warm up the entire cylinder. Had to on mine. The pistons popped out on there own.

Got them out by using the socket and hammer method. I had torched it before I posted it, and it didn't work. I am going to hone it out tomorrow to see how pitted the inside is, it doesn't look too bad, so I hope I can use it. Anyway to test these, after a rebuild before you install them back in??

i have drove out many a frozen one. see if you can drive one in a little bit, clean off the lip, the drive both out from other side. hammer and brass rod work good. makr sure you haven't cracked the piston when they are out.
i would see if you can hone out all rough spots in piston travel area. you can check the manual for piston to wall clearence. ones in my 64 sealed good with no leaks or fluid loss for over 5 years. good luck.

It is pretty pitted in the center, so I think I will be buying a new cylinder. Thanks everyone, it was still fun messing with it! lol

You may want to consider getting 2 of them, and replcace both sides. Only replacing one and rebuilding the other could cause uneven braking due to the wear differences.

I better be careful saying this but I have rebuilt many cylinders that had pits in the CENTER. If its not pitted where the cups rub back and forth it should be OK.....I've done it for years without failure but times, and money,change and the older I get the safer it seems I want to be. (back then I didn't have two nickels to rub together!)
BUT, that being said I also agree that since they are not that expensive to go ahead and buy NEW ones and as LONGBOX suggest buy two of them. Good advice.

I agree with Achipmunk. I have honed cylinders out with the pits too. If the wheel cylinders are cheap enough, I wouldn't waste my time on the old ones. I might be able to save a few bucks, but the time consumption makes up the difference if you value your time as much as I do.

Thanks for the advice!

Probably want to look at the master cylinder,and flush the lines before you install new cylinders. That crud comes from somewhere, and will not do well with the new parts.
Something about that STOPPING thing.

.... brake line is cheap cheap cheap. Most discount stores sell a 51" piece for around 5 bucks. It don't take much to plumb a truck and never worry about a rust line springing a leak. Do it once....do it right. Even if it takes a little longer.

Ah men Alvin. I've been under my '54 and before I put it on the street it's gonna get a good brake going over. Which will include not only include checking the shoes and drums and cylinders but replaceing the rusty lines. I believe in replaing the brass at the same time I change the lines, then I don't have to worry bout chasing leaks.
DON'T SKIMP on the BRAKES!!! Oh, didn't I say that before????

Denny Graham
Sandwich, IL