The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Tons 'o Fun Flat tire on the side of the road, what do you do?

Silly question?
I am almost ready to take this monster out for a drive and I realized there is no jack in the truck. Not only that, I have no jack that will lift this up on the side of the road. I have a floor jack, I don't really want to have to carry it around...
So what do you do? What tools do you carry with you in your 1 ton to make repairs on the side of the road?

Jeremy

I always make sure the tires are new when I first put a truck on the road, so unlikely to get a flat - beyond that AAA is handy

Bill

On a road trip I carry a suitable hydraulic bottle jack and a small assortment of blocking.
Also a lug wrench, and don't forget a spare tire, or if you have duals you can usually get by removing the flat wheel/tire combo and running a single to get to the shop or home.

I also carry a Hi-Lift jack when the trip may require it, they are quite handy.

Check with your auto insurance for a roadside assistance rider. Mine with USAA is only about $14 extra per year.

That is my answer also.

I'll add that if I'm around home I don't carry a spare and often not the jack or wrench unless I'd be upset having to wait to retrieve them from home if necessary. Haven't needed to yet. If it fit under the truck I'd always have it, but in the bed is a nuisance.

Always carry a spare for a trailer and the necessary tools, and on many occasions thankful that I did.

I have insurance that covers 3 tows per year (up to 125 miles per tow) - all vehicles, including my 2-ton COE flat bed.

In my light trucks, I also carry this inexpensive jack that comes inside a hard plastic carrying case. It stores under the seat. It fits under the axle (front or rear).

Thanks, I was leaning that direction myself. I was going to get an 8 ton bottle jack and carry a couple chunks of railroad tie.
I like that hi-lift jack though, which one did you buy? Can you lift these trucks from their bumpers? I'd think they were too heavy...

Thanks for all the input, it seemed a silly question until I realized I really didn't have a proper tool for the job, and this beast would kill me if it fell on me. I've been working on motorbikes for too long!

Jeremy

Years ago I had a red Hi-Lift that was purchased at the local farm supply place. The one I have today is Chinese with yellow and blue paint purchased at one of those traveling tools sales.

I've lifted bigger trucks by the bumpers using one, I'd want to be sure everything was secure and not too corroded before lifting anything.

My concern relying on one of those jacks to change a tire is how high do you need to lift the truck to get the tires off the ground. The bottle jack under the axle or spring pad assures you don't have to lift very far to get the job done.

I also have the scissor jack from an '89 1-ton Chevy that can be pushed under the axle like a bottle jack, but doesn't require getting underneath the truck to position it.

Last time I had a flat was more than ten years ago on the family mini-van and I just called AAA because I didn't want to muss my clothes. Good tires and avoiding road hazards makes tire changing an unusual thing.

Actually I just lied. Last time I had a flat was when I was hit in the tire by a texting teen. Broke both the tire and wheel, but there was enough damage my truck left on a flat bed, so I didn't change that one either.

I like the standard height all red one. The short ones are to short, and the long ones are even more unsteady up that high, the red ones are stronger/longer lasting, and not much more expensive than black.

Yep, the Hi-Lift jacks are a whole heck of a lot stronger than you expect, we've picked up and moved some incredible things with them.
They are also somewhat dangerous, and must be handled and operated carefully and treated with respect.
In order to change a wheel you've got to jack the bumper, and the suspensions means you'll lift it pretty high. I would be advisable to chock the axle once you get it up and before you pull the wheel.
There is a sling/hook sort of attachment sold to hook onto the wheel and pick it, then you still need to block under the axle before changing the wheel.

The hi-lift is great for trailer tire changes, they don't have a whole lot of suspension droop, and can jack anywhere along the frame or on a stake pocket.

For a simple tire change on the road first choice would be a small bottle jack, not so small that it's unstable, but not so big that it takes for ever. Pieces of railroad tie are nasty and larger than you'll usually need. 4 or 6 one foot long pieces of good clean 4x4 or 4x6 will be sufficient, and easy to carry.

Grigg

What Grigg said. Handy, stout, and handle with respect. Bottle jacks or scissor jacks are better options for a truck, especially in a taller one ton. 4x6s and 2x6's are invaluable. Not only to make you have to jack less, but it spreads out the weight so when you add the weight of the truck, the jack doesn't end up buried in the ground. The 2x6 (or 2x8)also will spread the footprint and help make it more stable.

Hi-Lift I believe is a brand and what I have today is a Chinese copy. Its the same size as the old red one that I lost track of decades ago but might not be made of as good of stuff.

I need to check the local Co-Op to see if they carry the good one, but I'm afraid to learn what they cost now.

Since you can readily determine how far the axle needs to be off the ground to remove the tires, you could go so far as to make up a set of blocks with a notch to rest the axle in to support the truck once its off the ground. Of course you would want to carry some additional blocks in the case of uneven ground.

I think it's possible to go too far on the getting ready for tire problems issue, when getting good tires is probably a better plan.

Steve, the Hi-Lift jacks are very reasonably priced, I think mine was less than $60 a few years ago at tractor supply.
Looks like they are still less than $70 for the 48" red ones in most places, shop around town to save shipping.

Grigg

It's a real bummer to get a flat on your outer dual when your inner dual is already flat. I've seen that in action while working a previous job.

That one's easy-pull the outsider off the other side,pull both flats and throw 'em on the bed,install the one from the other side,and you're on your way.

I don't even have a spare for either of my duallies,so it's not an issue.

Make SURE your lug wrench fits all your lugs,and your jack and wheel tools work with that truck. I've found:
One time where I learned I had one lug nut that's a different socket size,and the lug wrench doesn't have that size.

Another time where all the tools were stored where they were supposed to be,but they fit a different make and size,and nothing would work properly on my truck. I lucked out and got the scissors jack to hold long enough to get the wheel changed before it buckled,and got the lugs loose with a 3/8 ratchet and socket from my tool box and a piece of galvanized pipe I found about a mile back from where the tire blew out. (I drove really gently back to town,stopping often to be sure none of the nuts was coming loose.)

Don't think that just having new tires will prevent flats! There's a reason most of the ranchers out here have loaded spare carriers on both sides of their trucks,and another spare either lying in the bed or cinched against the headache rack.
I'm also going to install on board air on my one tons,as soon as I find the rest of the A/C compressor brackets I need. I did it on my BroncWorth,and it's been really handy!
Speed

If you're dealing with the dual-nut setup common on rigs bigger than 1-ton, one of the gear-reduction torque multipliers is just about a necessity for wheel changing without a BIG air impact wrench. That tool, the right sockets, and a long cheater bar, plus a lot of sweat will get the job done. Using a hydraulic bottle jack considerably higher-capacity than really necessary, like maybe a 12-ton, will increase the footprint and stability. Those little jacks are just too tippy to suit me, even if they will handle the lifting requirements!

One other thing- - - - -remember that some lugs have LEFT-HAND threads!
Jerry

A hydraulic bottle jack with various sizes of wood blocking stores under my front seat, and I have a spare tire mounted under the rear frame of my '48 1 ton. A heavy 4 bar lug wrench stores under the front seat too.

I carry a cheap floor lift that comes in a plastic box and fits under/behind the seat. I bought mine at Menards for less than $20. I also carry a T-bar for the lug nuts. I also have AAA.