The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Making a Stovebolt Bed bed wood

I goofed and posted this question under welcome center. Can anyone tell me what will happen if the bedwood doesn't have a channel routed in it for the wear strips to fit in? Can they just be bolted on top of the wood? Will the fender wells of my fleetside bed fit without the channel?

Thanks for your help.

I think the wood will migrate around, possibly leaving gaps big enough for the strips to fall between the boards. The edge isn't routed, a table saw will do the job (I did with mine). Somewhere on this site the dimensions are available. Each side must be run past the blade twice, once to knock the top down about 1/8 inch and once to make the slot about 1/4 inch deep and 1/4 inch from the edge. Sand smooth and finish... You're done. Absolute precision isn't necessary, but find the correct dimensions to start.

Good luck

Thanks for the info. I thought that could be the problem if the channel was not put in the wood. In your reply you said to use a table saw, if I don't have one but have a router and blade to use do you think I could make it work? I see you are also a british car nut. I got bit by that bug at a young age and can not seem to shake it.

Here is a direct link to the information you need.
http://www.speedprint.com/deves50/bedwood.php

Does the bed have to be removed to remove and replace the bed wood? I have a 2nd series 1955. Thank You

It might be possible to do the job with the bed more or less in place. You still would have to get it up off of the cross supports, though. I pulled my bed off and had it on saw horses. It is a lot easier that way if not absolutely essential.

Yes, the bedwood can be serviced with the bed still on the truck.The inner boards can be removed without any issues once the skid strips are removed, and for 2 of the boards, the bed to frame mounting bolts. The 2 outside boards will require the bed to be raised a bit for clearance, but is not hard to do. I lifted the bed enoung to take mine out with no assistance (I will admit, I'm not a small guy, 6'4" 284#). Have a few peices of 1 by boeards handy to slide under the angle strip once you take the bed board out to support the bedside. Place the 1 by over the cross sills. When i did mone, it was stable enough that I could drive the truck without them comming out, however, I would not advise going very far like that.

I'm not nearly as big and strong as he is. I have used my cherry picker to lift beds and find it an easy and manageable job solo.

I had a steel floor in my box, I wanted the look of wood. I built the whole thing on 2 sawhorses and slipped it onto the floor, Sunk 4 stainless bolts thru the whole thing and it looks great. Mar Kay had it on their site for awhile. I used their stainless strips. Now if I Want to I can just slide it out for refinishing

Hi Blue

If you want to use a router, a dado bit should be good for the first pass (lower the edge) and a small channel bit could make the slot. If you're handy with a router, it should come out well.
I did my bed with it still on the truck, but I lifted it with a hoist. I also used cheap shelf wood that I cut to size, milled, stained and finished. I decided to put the bed bolt heads under the wood, rather than fighting with recessing the offset washers.

I sort-of inherited the British car bug. I was the only one who wanted to try to restore the car after my father passed. Since then I've acquired an 86 Jag XJ-S V12... Isn't pulling out your hair sooooo much fun!

I'm going to try the using a router, should come out ok. Got my wood from our Jr High industrial arts teacher. I'm using Cyprus,
it's not a hard wood but is very resistant to rot. Don't plan on using this truck to haul much anyway.

I've got a 69 MG Midget that our local votech finished body work and painting for me about 3 weeks ago. It isn't perfect but it sure looks better than if I'd tried painting it. It's going to be fun putting it back together I've had it apart for 5 years.

Thanks for the help guys. Lets see how far I get this weekend!

Jim Carter has a book "Bed restoration manual" that tells how to prepair your boards and how to do just about everything. It is well worth the money. It even tell what depth to cut the groves.