The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk 1952 truck questions

Hey everyone! just joined this site! very excited. this site is a great one. Ok more on me later..here are my questions:

I may be getting my hands on a 1952 5 window 1/2 ton. Its a "survivor" truck. all original metal. some rust but NO rot.

If i get it, i will most likely to a full on restoration. with that being said, ( and i know this is more opinion than anything else) is it better to keep everything totally stock IE like it was on the showroom floor in 1952...or is it advantageous to do SOME modern upgrades IE convert to 12volt system as opposed to 6volt.

I am NOT going to chop it, cut it, drop it. this truck is completely "unmolested." i figure i can keep it totally factory original, or i can give a couple modern upgrades mainly to make my life easier in the long run.LOL.

Welcome, what you do with it is ultimately up to you. The future value of the truck will largely depend on what you choose to do. All original is probably best but I'm not that kinda guy. If the truck is really original then I would recommend staying original. The previous owner made my choice for me by hacking up the frame for a V8 conversion, I just took it to the next level.

If you are fortunate enough to find one in unmolested condition that hasn't rotted away from years of exposure I'd strongly recommend not changing anything. Once you change one thing, the whole thing is compromised.

Mine was such a POS when I got it so the idea of restoration was out of the question. Mine will only LOOK stock until you open the hood or put it on a lift. If I had it to do over I'd look for one like yours and not touch anything other than things to keep it on the road. An all-original '52 will always draw the crowd that walks right by a tricked out hot rod.

Danhami,

Welcome to the discussion board.

There is really no need to change to 12v unless you want to use 12v components or add 12v accessories.

There are a progression of upgrades "to make my life easier in the long run". What you choose to do will be based on a variety of factors, mostly depending how how and on where and on how often you plan on driving the truck.

Hi,on My 52-3100 the only thing I changed is I went with 12volt sys. other than that it's all stock I rebuilt the original 216 engine and trans and the color is what I wanted in a truck ,build the truck for You and the way You want it look thru the Gallery section and look at other trucks and form a plan of what You want You're truck to look like and have fun building it.

Pete

I agree. Leave it stock. If you are going to drive it, 12 volt system is good. Put turn signals on it & better wheels with radial tires. I also like carpeting. The main thing is to go through every thing on it to make sure it is safe & reliable. The brakes & fuel systems always need complete o-haul.

I like the streetrod approach,however I also enjoy looking over the bone stock trucks and cars at the shows and cruisins.That decisiom will have to be up to you.I did my 2nd series 55 up the way I like it. A 350 engine hooked to a 700R4 tranny. Independant front suspension and lowered all the way around.It drives and handles like a new truck,and I can run in the fast lane all day long.

It's kinda like falling in love! Theres a certain attraction to the vehicle. Sit in the truck, the old smell, the old feelings, maybe some old memories? The process to determine what you want when your done can get very involved. How fast, how much money, time and effort on your part? Just remember out there on the highway things have changed since the truck was built 58 years ago. Just my 2$

You guys rock. thank you all very much. i'm still in the brain storming phase. i'll spare you guys the long story, but we got in it, started right up, drove around a bit...it's all original metal! i was pretty shocked. No rot. fair amount of rust but not that bad really. if we get it, i'm going to do a ground up restoration. So this leads to question #2...where can i go to see the factory color schemes and options? i got my hands on a catalogue that has some great info. i look online and very few trucks are see are true factory original. Let me know when to shut up guys! i have a lot to learn about these trucks.

1952 Chevrolet Truck Specifications
1952 Regular Productions Options
1952 Exterior Appearance & Colors
1952 Color Chips
1952 Dealer-Installed/ Owner-Installed GM Accessories

1952 Chevrolet Truck Brochures

Shop Manual

Owner's Manual

Welcome Kanhami, I have seen links around here to color charts but never saved them to my favorites section. If you would post this question in the paint and body forum you will get better responses and info..... as with other questions in the best forum. If you learn to do a "search" in the forum you can probably turn up hours of reading on the very subject....but the guys here are great about helping you out and helping to save us time. Good luck and keep us posted.

One thing to keep in mind about a 52 if you want to keep it stock- it did not come with chrome or stainless steel in the bumpers, grill, or interior. I thought I wanted all that bright work when I started my 52 project but if I were to start this again I would go as stock as possible.

Chuck

I say enjoy it the way you want, and change what you want to enjoy it.
I feel if you limit what you do with it, for the fear of how it affects the value you will also limit your enjoyment.

If it was a limited production vehicle, very rare model, the thought of no changes to it would certainly come into play. Is your truck in that category ? Money can't always provide enjoyment.

Dan

And to add to your hours of reading pleasure here are a few books I found useful.

How to restore your Chevrolet pickup by Tom Brownell.
Chevrolet Pickups 1946-1972 by John Gunnell.
Sixty years of Chevrolet by George H. Dammann.

Finally, some of the vendors catalogs are fantastic sources of information and inspiration.

you know whats a great question! I'm really not sure. from what i read so far, i know that there is no "brightwork" on that specific year due to the korean war. How would i find out if it is a limited edition vehicle? I don't have the truck yet, but i may pull the trigger soon. all this got is getting me thinking even more. LOL... I can't help but keeping it totally stock and true to 52 form would help with value?

eileen- thanks for the info. i have the first book you recommended. sounds like i need to get the other two.

Limited edition vehicle? I don't think that marketing gimmick had been invented in '52.

I think the term "limited edition" started with stuff like collector plates during the 50's. Those are the plates that bring a buck at a garage sale if you're lucky. Chrome wasn't even an option at that time because of the Korean conflict.

yea i had read that about the chrome. When i saw that i was really torn. A comment was made earlier in this post about doing what i want, not just what was period correct for the time. although my goal is most likely going to be keeping it as accurate as possible, all the chrome really makes the truck pop. talk about being torn in 2 different directions!

If you want to do a restoration these are the hard decisions that you have to make. Once you start to waver you wind up making compromises that never end.

Once you get into the project and see the number$ adding up you may welcome the idea of paint rather than chrome.

I thought I would jump in and add my 2 cents worth. The Korean War (June25 1950 to July 27 1953) made various shortages of "war materials" chrome is one of the items in short supply.Oh, I have a 52 as well, and have been restoring/researching that year for 4 years. Due to the year of production, and location a 52 could be a mishmash of parts. The way I understand it, due to an overrun of back bumpers in earlier years you probably have a chrome rear bumper. For what ever reason the production run for front bumpers lagged behind, so it USUALLY was painted. As far as bright work, it was limited. That dosen't mean it didn't exist. The difference is, that the parts that had been chromed in the past were polished steel during the war years. Also if a worker found a part left over from 47 to 50 they used it. So while the "official" or "correct" parts for these years may differ from actual production parts. For my 52 I am trying to make it look original, and consistant. It isn't a show truck so an aftermarket part isn't a big deal. My desire is to make it look "right" and fit the period. you made the comment that chrome really made the truck pop. A polished piece of steel is as attractive or more so than chrome. As a sprout of 57 that is what I have found. If I have incorrect info, please some of the better versed guys please chime in.

Jimmie D,

Your understandings seem reasonable, with a few clarifications.

At least through 1950, the front and rear chrome bumpers were standard in 1/2 ton trucks. It looks like from 1951 and later Advance-Design trucks, a rear bumper was optional.

1952 and 1953 bumpers (standard front bumper and optional rear bumper) were not available in chrome. In 1954/55 a painted front bumper was standard (optional chrome front bumper was now available); and, in 1954/55 painted or chrome rear bumpers were options.

Yes, parts that supposedly changed for a specific year did not change on a specific date. They changed when the older part in that factory ran out.

ok here's another question. Does anyone use the factory style vacuum pump for the windshield wipers or does everyone switch to electric? i see electric conversions but i'm not seeing vacuum pumps for this particular application

The vacuum pump is a combination upper/lower dual vacuum/fuel pump
that boosts the Vacuum to the vacuum wipers at full throttle/low vacuum conditions....

I have converted my '58 to electric (it's sooo nice compared to my '52 firetruck which in order for the wipers to work I have to get off the gas....)

the combo fuel pumps are hard to find....

HA! now i'm starting to wonder what i'm getting myself into. i think i need to dig into this a lot deeper. i take it i have a lot to learn about this truck. LOL

Stock!

Dunhami -

If you have a 51 - 1/2 ton in your family history go with stock.

If you want to drive it locally - leave it stock.

If you want to get where you're going the same day that you leave home ... up grade ... you probably have a 216 in it ... which area POS (in my humble opinion)poor oiling, low power but totally reliable.

You can upgrade the engine to a 250 very simply.

If the suspension is in good shape keep it if you don't mind wondering about 6 feet side to side instantly on the highway at a mximum of 55 mph again keep the supension.

It's not a hard chore to install a 250 with a 350 transmission. And a 9 inch Fjord rearend or a 10 bolt.

I was even able to keep my steering wheel brake and clutch pedals and now have a comfortable drive.

I used a Pacer IFS but they are getting hard to find nowadays.

Good info. soo much to take in!