The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Those of you with a V8 and the stock frame...

I have a 1950 Chevy 3100 that I got with no engine or tranny. I wanted to keep the original frame and axles so I was just going to go with an Inline 6, but I found the V8 crossmember from Classicparts, however I cant really find much info on swapping in a V8. What all is needed to mount a V8 to the stock frame, just this crossmember?

Any anyone who has mounted one to a stock frame, do you have any pictures of how it mounts/how it goes together? Thanks

-Nick

Nick,the engine x-member is the easy part.....There's quite a few other things to take into consideration. the steering/header clearance seems to be the most common problem.

I've gone the whole nine yards with mine(Mustang II,new gearbox x-member etc) so my pics wont be relevant.

Hang tight, someone with more info will be along soon.....You're a bit like me in the fact that when we're on-line,nearly everyone else is asleep!

How do you want to use the truck? Any advice will be much more useful in the context of your desired usage.

That said, what other modifications are you considering? What transmission?

The differences between installing an automatic or manual transmission might clarify some of your choices. If using a manual you have some closer to stock options that might be attractive.

Also using that V-8 crossmember is a good way to mount a Chevy 250 inline six which might be a good option for you.

Others will be along with more I'm sure.

I just want it to be a run around truck, gas mileage isnt a huge issue. Id just put a mostly stock 350 in it. I want a manual transmission, havent quite decided which one exactly. I was thinking a 5 speed from a 90s chevy but those are hydraulic.

One of the main reasons I want a V8 is because I have tons of parts for them. Inline 6's and parts for them are pretty hard to find where Im at. Id rather just stick with what I can replace and get parts for easily.

-Nick

You should probably research the manual transmissions available and choose one before making the other choices.

If you replace the bellhousing crossmember with one from a '54/'55 1st truck its then easy to swap in the bellhousing from a late 50's V-8 powered truck, making it simple to mount most GM manual transmissions behind a V-8 in your truck.

But I know almost nothing about the 90's 5-speeds and you'll want to be sure it will work with one before doing all the work.

If Im using the crossmember for the V8, do I still use the original bellhousing mounts? Or is there just another crossmember for the transmission that mounts towards the rear of it like the newer trucks?

-Nick

To install a V-8 you will need a crossmember, relocate or redesign your steering set-up, clearance the firewall for the distributor, change your bellhousing, convert to 12 volt, have a good radiator, modify the brake pedal and maybe the clutch pedal, fab an accelerator pedal, fab in a key start and probably several other things I've forgotten,
Scott

I have heard that with the right manifolds steering wont be a problem, and that even with an HEI distributor it will still clear. Is this true?

-Nick

The best advice anyone can give you is to do a search. There's hours and hours of good reading here. This topic has been covered many times. Take lots of notes, do alittle more research, ask a few more questions, and then dive in.

Mike

I've heard it too. I've never seen it done successfully. Get someone to show you one that worked out without moving the steering. Then take good pictures and share them.

The most likely option is real early 265 exhauxt manifolds. At least one side can be fitted on the drivers side to front exit and solve at least some of the problem. But I don't recall ever seeing even that done without interference or spacing the steering out.

I don't know everything and can't claim to have seen it all. I do insist on seeing things like this with my own eyes because I've heard too many tails of woe when something was claimed to work by some Internet expert but then didn't turn out well.

If I were running the V8 I would run the truck bell housing with the mounts for the crossmember and what ever mounts you want to run on the front. you may have a bit of clearance problems with the heads/valve covers at the firewall though. You will also have clearance problems between the left manifold and the steering box.

The old and crude fix was to slide the steering box out to the outside and inch and a half using a piece of angle iron. As I said crude. It also ended up putting the steering wheel at a slight angle.

I prefer not to hack the center crossmember out as that will eventually allow the cab to settle when the weight of the cab on the mount brackets twist the top of the cab rails out allowing the cab to sag. One reason that you see a lot of these AD trucks that look slightly bent in the middle and the hood/fenders and cab don't line up very well. They will settle until the bottom of the cab rides on the frame rails but the damage is done.

My HEI clears by about 1/4 in. Moved nothing.

I've had a 327 & m21 4 spd in my '49 for about 30 years now.
I kept both the bellhousing & trans crossmenbers, boxes the front frame rails & made mounts that angle up from the frame to the block out of 2x2 tube. The engine mounts in the front & the trans mounts to the trans crossmember - sort of a "V" set up.
I did not have to modify the brake or the clutch pedal, & I have a power brake booster under the floor.
The exhaust is the old style center dump rams horn manifolds.
I did have to fab a bracket & move the steering box outboard about 2" to clear the manifold.
I'm using a 12 volt generator at the present time.
For many years this truck was my daily driver in the S.F. bay area. It's haulde lots of materials building 3 homes, towing ski boats & hauling kids over the years.
This winter it's getting a 3" dropped axle from Sid Along with a power steering box from a Toyota Land Crusier & a tilt steering coloum from a Jeep Cherokee. Should make it easier for the "old man" to drive.
Good luck with the swap. It's not too hard a job & scares the hell out of the kids in their "ricers"

My '50 3100 had a 350/350 in it when I bought it. The steering box was in the stock position and cleared the left hand exhaust manifold OK. The manifold was one of the early ones with a generator bracket and exhaust outlet at the front.

The HEI distributor has good clearance from the firewall on mine.

I changed the TH350 Auto to a 5 speed manual and still use the stock brake and clutch pedal setup OK.

Stuart.

I took what I thought was the easy way out.I bought a bolt in engine mount kit from Chassis Engineering.I also bought their transmission mount as well.(by the way i'm running a TH350 instead of an manual) This tranny mount bolts in the original holes.
the Hei clears the firewall probly 3/4"...They say if using the stock steering box it will need moved slightly......
Due to using a Pacer front end I have to use stock manifolds,which are rear dump by the way....off of a 67 chevelle I was told...I did run into a snag with those, being the stock brake pedal hit the drivers side exhaust manifold.Instead of bending it I had a friend cut it and step it over.everything else seems ok.................dave

You might also look at the manifolds from a late 70's Monte Carlo. Someone said they clear and I'll bet they are easier to come by than early 265 manifolds.

But I remain skeptical. Its tight in there. Can some of you guys who say you have solutions post some detailed pictures of your driver's side exhaust and steering?

Do you think you could get some pics of the manifold?

-Nick

I agree with David. I used the chassis engineering mounts and crossmember in my panel. I like it!! Neat and clean.
I used a set of "ramhorn" manifolds off a 283 engine. They can get pricey if you buy a new set but a friend gave me mine.

For the steering I didn't like the idea of moving it although I have seen now where two bolters moved them over and said that you really couldn't tell the change in the column angle from inside the cab..... but I'm like OldSub on this one. I would like to see one tha is done that way.
So, I bought me a remanufactured power steering box, a mounting kit and moved the box to the side of the chassis. Its no big job. Just take your time. To lean the shock backwards all you have to do is switch the bottom plates for the shocks side to side and tilt them at a 60degree angle and they look nice.

My BIG distributor clears the firewall maybe 3/4" but works.

I might add tha I'm talking panel here but I would imagine the pickups would be the same.

I should have explain my truck. It's a 48 1 1/2 ton. I had to keep the trans in it's original location. It's a 4 speed with a PTO. Mounting the engine to the trans in it's original location had me "denting" the firewall and I still had plugwires rubbing againt the sheet metal. This also put the exhaust too close to the brake pedal arm and it stopped against the exhaust. I also center the engine in the frame rails so that required steering mod.s, which I wanted P/S anyway. Some people move the engine over to the right and the steering box to the left to get them to fit together. It's not the way I wanted to do it. A pick-up you can move the engine/trans forward a little bit to get around a few of these obsticles, but I couldn't,
Scott

After I bought the truck I changed the steering box to a later Saginaw P/S unit which gave me plenty of clearance to change the manifolds for headers. But there is a picture of the left hand exhaust manifold that came off my truck here: http://i113.piczo.com/view/3/h/b/5/2/u/p/w/0/w/z/t/img/i341047682_16376_5.jpg

Stuart.