The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Definitive Suspension list for Stovebolts

Folks, As there are many number of solutions for front and rear suspensions, I though a definitive list would be helpful for those planning projects as well as those of us that ran into problems. I do not want to make this post a debate or discussion topic, only a list of choices by manufacturer (not necessarily distribution), and maybe links to project posts. Maybe the moderators can make it a sticky.

(PM me and I can add to list)

here is a list of items I know of off the top of my head:

1941-1947.1 Chevrolet / GMC trucks:
Dropped Axles by Sid
CE Mustang 2

1947.2-1955.1 AD (Advance Design)
Dropped Axles by Sid
CE Mustang 2
Fat Man Fabrication Mustang 2
1973-1987 1/2T IFS shortened and modified
GM Metric IFS kit
C4 Corvette IFS kit
C4 Corvette IRS Kit

1955.2-1959 TF (Task Force)
Dropped Axles by Sid
1973-1987 IFS bolted in.
link

1960-1966:

1967-1972:

Axle swaps for 1.5 ton, 2 ton, and even 1 ton.
http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/bigbolts/p30swap/
This also gives a 2" drop from stock on the front, or new springs solve that problem and get the truck back up where it is supposed to be.

The front is not an easy or "bolt on" swap, the rear can be a simple bolt in, depending on what you find.

Grigg

Additional links that will be helpful.

http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/dload/LDPDF/P12.pdf
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/pdf/LD/LD_ST_Truck/LD_ST_Truck_pgs.pdf
http://www.gmupfitter.com/publicat/dload/LDPDF/LM.PDF

Maybe you could a section of personnel experiences with springs and/or shocks then we could add what we found to work on our own trucks.

Joe

If you have a thread with a specific project we will add it to the list.

pacer ifs with 2" shorter springs from Eaton Detroit springs.

I used the TCI front suspension package on my 55 2nd series.I have had good luck with it,course the main thing is to follow the instructions and make sure your measurments are correct.I measured and marked mine several times before welding the crossbrace in place. I also cut one coil off of the springs,and the truck has that mean and sassy look.It also drives and handles just great.Although I used the TCI setup I imagine there are several other brands on the market that will work out just as good.The main things in a new front suspension are,dont get in a hurry,and make sure your measurements are correct.Just one more thing to add here,when you are finished,get a good frontend allignment.

Scott,

For the 55-59 there are several source for Mustang II style fronts.

Fatman Fabrications - http://www.fatmanfab.com
HEIDTS - http://www.heidts.com
TCI Engineering - http://www.totalcostinvolved.com/

regards,
Leon

Thanks to Rob (Mobileortho) for this link

Those putting a 73-87 front end in a truck and find it a bit wide

http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/ModularDropSpindles/Modular_Drop_Spindle.htm

these spindles will suck in the wheels 1 1/8" per side.

i found the fatman fab mII kit to be very easy to install. we've used it on 3 ADs now. handling is great, no fender clearance issues. also found that moving the engine forward 1.0" from their recommendation helps with steering clearances.

Gents,
I have went with TCI kit for the front and back end of my 39' truck. I was wanting a daily driver w/dependability that I'll stay on the road while keeping up with traffic. The kits I have are designed for the truck so all I had to do was follow the instructions provided and the the supervision of my good friend that was overlooking the work.

Bread

Mustang II,
4 link rear,
TCI
.

Someone pointed me in the direction of a company that makes Mustang 2 kits that are a good bit cheaper than most if not all of the companies I've looked at. I've contacted him through email and he currently doesn't make corvette kits due to not having many people call wanting to use them but he offered to send a proposal.
Gayleco

having hung a few of the corvette components under a few vehicles, the aluminum a-arms and a-arm pivots are known to bend if you hit a good pot-hole.

I would stick with a good tubular A-arm under a truck.

Great thread. I'm just getting some safety issues resolved but have this IFS conversion on my mind. I looked at the Gayleco web site and it appears that his kit does not include R&P steering but I coulda missed it...was a quick look. The CPP kit includes power R&P for about $2100

Edit: Guess I was incorrect about the R&P steering.... I would love to hear from guys who have used this kit...significant savings...

Going with a No Limit Fatbar 4-link and F*rd 8.8 on the rear of my Task Force. Fatman MII on the front, they are local so I was compelled to use them on at least one end.

Starting on the rear soon, just finished up mocking in the 21 gal aluminum No Limit EFI tank.

As a first time builder doing a complete frame off, I also installed IFS kit from TCI in my 51 Chevy shortbox build. I think for the price,quality and doing what its designed to, they have got it right. Handles quite nicely. I wouldn't hasitate to use this kit again.

Using a Welder Series Mustang 2 crossmember on the front of my '49 chevy pickup. Automotive origami!
http://www.welderseries.com/online-store/category/mustang-ii-crossmember-kits/

Haven't bought the other front end components as yet.
Speedway has some very interesting pricing though

Been looking at this setup from full tilt hotrods for the rear.
http://www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/rearsusp.htm
This system looks really tidy in the pictures and appears to be fairly easy to setup. it bolts to the factory front spring hanger holes. Has anyone tried this setup out?

I have a '96 F*rd explorer 8.8 rear axle with disk brakes, limited slip and 3.73 gears.

It is all going to sit on airbags.
I'm leaning towards the "Plug-n-Play" compressor system with height control.

Rob

Scott, If you want to add this, here it is.

The crossmembers from 1963 through 1987/8 will will interchange, as will steering boxes. "A" arms will, too as will spindles. Be aware there are differences in tie rod ends, "A" arm bushings, and ball joints across the years. 1/2T fits1/2T; 3/4T fits 3/4T. I don't know about 1T. In Power Steering, somewhere around 1980 GM went metric on the steering box and pump fittings. Some of the venders have adapter tie rod ends that fit late spindles and early tie rods for 1/2Ts. All the 3/4T joints, bushings, and ends SEEM to be the same.

Power steering must use power steering pitman arm and standard steering must use standard steering pitman arm!

1960 through 1962 are totally different. I have no idea what fits what there.

Best wishes,

Les

Front IFS is done and I really like the changes in safety and driveability but it still rides like a buckboard... Yes, I realize it is 49 tech behind the IFS so what changes should I make for the rear? I want to change over to modern tube shocks, but what else ?....new leaf springs ? What have all you old time truckers done?

I have a TCI MII w/power R&P (10-12 yrs old)under the front & a Chassis Engineering leaf spring kit under the rear of my 1st '55 w/'80 Camaro 10 bolt. It rides great - smooth. I did knock the alignment out 2 years ago on a trip to NYC & Boston because of all the pot holes, dips, rises & other failings of big city roads. Had it re-aligned & great since. I'll be making that trip again in a couple of weeks but will take it easy on the FDR (SURELY THE WORST ROAD IN THE COUNTRY). Rides and handles as good as my '93 Chevrolet Sport Truck & '04 Tahoe but a lot more fun. I have a similar set up under my '56 3100 (front & back TCI) that is not quite finished. TCI usually has some good buys at the bigger shows thru their network of venders. Free shipping. Their current MII is improved over mine to prevent alignment being knocked out.

Just got one of Scott's front cross member kits tacked in and I like what I have seen. Did not want to use Pinto/Mustang style IFS system. I'm using tube type frt upper arms and s10 lower arms with drop spindles. I will have far less than 2100 in mine complete and that is another plus for me. Will use someone's 4 link on the rear--haven't crossed that bridge yet but so far so good. My 2 cents....

Thanks for the kind words Don.

this may already be on the list but
an update might not hurt

their stuff worked well on my 52 sedan

As you know, I did the 73-87 Chevy swap but a buddy of mine on another site took it to another level. He shortened his control arms by moving the ball joints and added a rack. He has the work detailed here.

on our 51 - 3104 i did a 1977 4x4 rear axle. offset kit 1.5'' and added another 1''.
she now has 2'' wide brake shoes. easy swap that fit nicely under the rear. placed an under bed 16 gal tank and two into one headers off tom's stovebolt headers flange

TCI with coil overs on a 46 worked well for me.

I've made numerous modifications to my 1965 C10 SWB's suspension and have written some how to threads also. Here are some links:

Frame Notch Based On Strength: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=20312

Upper Rear Shock Relocation 63-72: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?p=88325#

Track Bars, The Short and The Long Of It: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=14368/

Rear Lowering Springs - Lessons Learned: http://c10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17219

And my build thread has more details of suspension changes and other assorted bizarre modifications.
Lakeroadsters' Build Thread 1965 SWB Stepside: http://talk.classicparts.com/showthread.php?t=13928

Hope these help!

John

Flat out Engineering has kits to mount C4 Corvette front and rear suspensions for the '55-'59 trucks, and various other vehicles. The boss Don is very friendly and helpful: when I had emailed him a question about the kit, he called me right back, because he thought it was better to be able to talk about my question rather than email back and forth!
Rear end kits are true bolt-ons, very easy to install, even on a Suburban without removing the body.
http://www.flatout-engineering.com/

I installed Steve Andereggens IFS on my 49 Suburban using 84 GMC front crossmember shortened 1 & 5/8 inches. While a good solid heavy duty truck suspension I ran into the following issues.

1. Raises the front of the truck up higher and destroys the stock look which I wanted to keep.
2. Installed 2 inch lowered front spindles to get the stock look back which changes the front end geometry making it impossible to line up. Cant get enough caster.
3. Although it drives well, doesn't wander and rides good the steering wheel will not return to the neutral centering position after turning a corner because of the insufficient caster problem. Also it ate up my front tires at 5500 miles.

This conversion is economical and safe and a plus is that it is a truck IFS and if you are not concerned about losing the stock look it works fine.

I have bought Scott Danforths kit and am in the process of installing it now. I like the idea of using stock S-10 parts.



Weeds

Weeds, post pics and I will include in my thread https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...;Main=46889&Number=338344#Post338344 and on my customers pictures page http://s1343.photobucket.com/user/scott_danforth/library/Crossmember%20Customers?sort=3&page=1

do I understand that using a 73-87 chevy truck subframe bolted onto a 51 chevy truck 3100 original chassis and by using the cpp modular drop spindle will position the track width near the 53 original track width with no alignment problems?
thanks, phil

Hi Everyone

I hung a pair of 1990's 1/2 ton rear Chevy truck leaf springs on my 1952/53 1 ton Chevy truck I call "Howard Knapp" I bought the both rear springs with all the hangers still attached (local price was $200.00). Took me a week with the "Liquid Wrench" to get everything loosened up so I can hang them on the 1952/53 Chevy frame. 16 5/16" x 1" long hardened steel hex head screws and the rear springs were in place. I had to cut the 1985 Chevy Blazer spring perches and I bought a pair from "Speedway Motors" spring perches...I think I had to move the perches out about 1/2" on each side. 1985 Chevy Blazer rear shocks from Rock Auto. Had to fabricate some hangers for this stuff tho...

Hope this helps someone out.

MikeC

I used a trailing arm rear suspension from jimenez bros in California, and a jaguar IFS in my 51. Still working on the drivetrain, so no review yet..

So what does everyone thing about other ifs installations, from a nova,camero,firebird ect.. I know everyone makes kits and you can buy them and they come with instructions, what about the gray area of figure it out by yourself kinda wrench turning. Just wondering because I am thinking about taking a project of my own 71 nova sub frame on to a 1951 3600 chevy.

I installed a Heidts weld in kit on my 39 chevy pickup.

I worked perfectly, even though the frame was bent a bit behind the right front spring, which caused an 1/8" difference in length from side to side. I split the difference. It rolled straight down the freeway.

hey Guys,
Im just adding my 2 cents here: I put a 1988 C1500 rear
end under my 50 AD. Used the stock springs,hangers,and shock mounts and moved the spring saddles and shock mounts on the rear end. The stock 88 Chevy PU wheels with 255/70R 15 tires fit perfectly and line up just inside the running boards. The set up looks great especially since I didn't want to use deep dish positive offset wheels. So your rear end list doesn't need to stop at 1987,
fyi, Bill

Does anyone have good info on where to locate the mounts for rear shocks on a 1953 1-ton GMC? Mine has nothing, so I ordered some generic weld-on brackets to mount modern shocks. But I don't know where best to put them.

I used the set up from Chassis Engineering purchased through JPL speed. Bolt in easy to install, 11in Chevy format brakes, and free shipping....about $2300 with sway bar. I did cut a coil off the springs to soften them up. Used the "steering column saver" original column with 2 U joints and a 3/4in DD shaft. works great.

Have fun,
Bill

I always thought if you shorten a coil spring you make it stiffer. I've been wrong before.

Hey Guys, one thing to consider when going to a MII front end is the original AD frame design has no welds. They were all riveted together which is part of the AD design. Most of the MII front end "systems" are weld in and require the frame to be boxed in to maintain the original frame strength. To box in part of a frame is a tedious job to make look clean and neat. With this concept in mind, I used a MII system from Chassis Engineering that bolts in the cross member and spring hangers and necessary hard ware and no frame boxing is necessary.
just an fyi